2018 headlight options? AutoPal Headlights are rusting from the inside out.

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Oct 6, 2018 | 03:53 PM
  #16  
1) Yes. Although there are other s/b's by Sylvania those are the brightest at 55/65. Mine are over 5yrs old w/ a Putco harness.
2) All connectors are the same as the OEM ones.
3) Yes. But the brightness of the OEM's are increased by ~30%.
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Oct 7, 2018 | 09:11 AM
  #17  
So, we upgrade the harness for more optimal power/current relay based switch.

But, why did I replace my OEM headlights at the same time?
Why not just only replace the harness?
What did the Autopal housings offer than the OEM bulbs did not?
Higher wattage?

OEM H6054 is 35W, right?
Autopal bulbs were 55W, right?
I recall it's safer to avoid 80/100W bulbs, right?
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Oct 15, 2018 | 05:23 PM
  #18  
So, what do you think?
Should I get another set of Ebay AutoPal or the Sylvania sealed beams?
Both are 55W/60W.
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Oct 16, 2018 | 10:22 AM
  #19  
If you liked the AutoPal then there's no reason not to get them again.

I'm running OEM Philips sealed beams with the harness upgrade and am quite happy - but I also don't need a blinding amount of light.
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Oct 16, 2018 | 10:38 AM
  #20  
Quote: So, what do you think?
Should I get another set of Ebay AutoPal or the Sylvania sealed beams?
Both are 55W/60W.
One thing to point out is Autopal/H4 bulb has a few options. One not mentioned is the 55/100w, my prefered choice. $4 upgrade when buying housing. Another plus is replacements bulbs are $8 a PAIR versus sealed beam otc.

https://www.ebay.com/str/autopallights

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Oct 16, 2018 | 04:34 PM
  #21  
Don't 100W bulbs cause issues like blown fuses? Or worse?
I thought 55/60 is the highest level with the hardness upgrade?

I liked AutoPal but find it ridiculous that they rusted out in a few years.
Still on the same bulbs.
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Oct 16, 2018 | 04:51 PM
  #22  
The harness upgrade is to eliminate the heat in the actual headlight switch/wiring causing premature failure in the switch. Another bi product of this is you get back the voltage loss the stock wiring was having an effect on the headlights. I have done this on my chevy van too, same wiring and headlight switch setup. I should add that the relays is what redirects the current to headlights away from a switch.

The 100w is the high beam, not usually running them for long periods. I also have a set of lights at 150w x 2 on the bumper that run simultaneously with brights. No issues with my system on a stock amperage alternator.

The rust issue has not appeared in mine after 3 years or so, but we don't salt are rods here either. No answer for that except ask the guy you bought them from.
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Oct 27, 2018 | 12:52 PM
  #23  
I installed replacement AutoPals.
These are marked DOT, and have a reflector shade inside.

I installed the 100W/55W new bulbs.
They are safe, right?

Replacement was smooth since I replaced all the screws a few years ago when I did the harness upgrade.
Soaked them in PBKroilWrench before putting them back in.
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Oct 27, 2018 | 01:02 PM
  #24  
Nevermind.. I was reading something had to many tabs open and posted here on mistake.
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Oct 28, 2018 | 12:00 PM
  #25  
I tried out the 100W brights last night, and they make a big difference.
I think the new housings are aso brighter, since the old Autopals were rusty reflectors and did not reflect efficiently.
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