Hi folks,

I am sure someone in here has been through this before, i put new lifters in because i had one that colapsed, had the head done, well of course two lifters failed before breakin was done, pulled head found they one failed hydraulic and was dished on the bottom and the other was just dished on the bottom, i pulled all lifters and inspected those were the only two with an issue,
so the question is put a new cam and lifters in, so i researched that on here some and i see stories about lifters not being made well and failing, i asked the local machine shop he said flat tappets are mostly coming from other countries and the steel sucks, he said its not just jeep its all flat tappet engines, go figure, so do i buy new cam and lifters or look for a actual used set? what brand to buy? if im going to snake this out the front i only want to do it once lmao,

what brand new names should i buy?
should i find a used set to put in?
any help would be great

 

I used melling lifters in my last 2 builds and had good results. One had a used cam, one was a new cam. Also have used the cheaper engine tech lifters with no issues. It really is all about break in and the oil used.

When you put the last set of lifters in, what did you coat them and the cam with?

 

call Chad at Golen engines and see what he uses.

 

Did you actually perform a cam break in procedure (20-30 mins @ 2k-3k rpm)? Looks like from your other posts you let the engine idle with a lot of starts/stops due to some engine performance issues. No way the engine could provide the oil flow/pressure and heat to properly mate the cam and lifters.

I think you'd be ok with name brand lifters as long as you break it in properly. Maybe take care of the timing chain issue and figure out why you have voltage on your cam sensors signal wire.

 

Aren't you supposed to have voltage on the cam sensor signal wire?

 

I assumed it was on the wiring harness side from the PCM, maybe I misunderstood his other post. Unless you are saying that the signal wire from the PCM should have voltage?

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Absolutely. There is (or should be) a 5V pulse as shown in the CPS/CKS waveforms, which last I heard Crabbi was going to check.

The (an) electrical issue is his trace voltage pulsates. Finding out why that is might help figure out why the cam won't sync (we really need the waveforms, but hey, doing the best we can with what we've got). Could that in turn offer a clue to all this mess? I mean, even at the end it was backfiring on intake, so IMO there's still an unresolved issue.

 

Just to clarify, that should be 5v coming from the CPS to the PCM, correct? Not 5v from the PCM signal pin, right?

 

2 Yes 5 volt on one side signal on the other ground in the middle, my signal side had milivolt tracers in in with a roaming OHM reading,
all thhat makes no difference now, two lifters let loose and the shavings went through the whole engine, pulled cam the cam bearings are wiped, needs to come out and full rebuild or used motor, both lifters that ground themselves to bits were on intake valves, this head was just redone at a reputable place so i have confidence in them, i think it was new lifters not marrying old cam or simply poor quality steel and they ground to nothing, keep in mind the engine originally had a failed number 6 lifter,i replaced them all, i pulled all lifters all but two looked perfect, the other two dished out the bottom of the lifter and the shavings wiped stuff out im guessing, only the dirveability issue that started this was overshadowing eachother making this hard to understand, even worse was two seperate compression tests showed good number 3 cyl was 150 number 2 cylinder was 135 to 140,
in the end engine is toast is what it is,

 

i used an obscene amount of lube right from the shop that rebuilt the head,
two lifters dished it never made it past breakin, thats whn it failed