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2000 XJ - P0122 - need assistance translating my readings
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
2000 XJ - P0122 - need assistance translating my readings
2000 XJ - P0122 - need assistance translating my readings
Preliminary Info:
1) 2000 XJ, AW4, 270ish K miles...
2) I've searched every forum I could think of... CherokeeForum, NAXJA, et. al.
3) Getting a P0122 Code that returns after clearing the CEL
4) Tasks performed to date:
a) Refreshed all Engine Bay Grounds and B(+) cables and devices (starter, alternator, etc)
b) Swapped current TPS with used spare TPS - no change in issue. Both are MOPAR. No Non-MOPAR sensors on my rig.
c) Pulled Horn relay on the off chance that the Clockspring affected this code the way it does P0123 - no change
d) Sensor and PCM readings via back probe (Green tested good - Red is what I believe is in question):
Key On Run Position: Sensor Signal (OR/BL) to Sensor Ground (BR/YL) .780V Key On Run Position: Reference Voltage (OR) to Sensor Ground (BR/YL) 5.19V No Voltage Drop on Sensor Ground when tested against Chassis Ground using LoadPro No Signal Drop using Scan Tool from Closed to WOT Key On Run Position: Sensor Signal is 3.98V at WOT - FSM says WOT should be 4.5V Key On Run Position: PCM C1 (Black Connector) Pin 23 (Sensor Signal) to TPS Ground is 3.97V at WOT - negligible drop from Sensor to PCM
So...
Do I just have 2 subpar TPS's?
What haven't I checked?
What other sensors or modules could impact this?
What do the #s tell me (learning to diagnose electrical instead of just replacing parts)?
What uniquely quirky things on XJs might this be that isn't remotely related?
.0117V may normal for your Jeep. The sensor ground is a network to all 5.0 V sensors. Check the voltage at the Brown/Yellow tracer wires at other sensors with key to RUN. If they are .0117 volts you're okay.
I've only seen one otherposter that said he had .09 voltswith key OFF. He never did say if/how he fixed it. I suggest you wiggle all sensor pigtails while monitoring the voltage at the TPS Orange wire with key OFF to see if the voltage drops off. If so, disconnect each sensor, starting with the CPS, to see if the voltage drops off. Visually inspect the pins and pin cavities in the sensor connectors and the wires going to each connector for corrosion.
I'm off today so I'll be spending it in the engine bay. By chance, do you have the test procedures with specification readings for the other sensors - CPS, CKP, IAT, ECT MAF, IAC, etc? Figure it's a good time to see if they're functioning properly while I'm at it.
I'm off today so I'll be spending it in the engine bay. By chance, do you have the test procedures with specification readings for the other sensors - CPS, CKP, IAT, ECT MAF, IAC, etc? Figure it's a good time to see if they're functioning properly while I'm at it.
Finally, I can help with something semi-complicated. I tested my IAC and coolant temp sensors in post 1 of my build thread.
I have links to and images of the appropriate charts in my post.) https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/20...ebuild-232835/
It was awesome! I can't wait to see the resolution on your issue. Keep us posted.
OK, new developments. Sensors are all testing within range per FSM, however...
My hard start, rough idle, running like crap issue may be influencing the TPS code. When starting my rig it's a bear to get her up and running first key turn. This is a recent development which is why I went the route of cleaning up all of my grounds and B+ connections. Battery load tested fine. Charging is good as well...
So I moved on to test the fuel delivery system. Pump engages and pressurizes with key in run position - BUT ONLY TO 18 PSI, and then drops to below 10 PSI in less than a minute. Ran the test bringing engine up to operating temp and she held steady at 51 PSI... until she sputtered and died (not unusual recently). I haven't done the next tests to see if the issue is in the regulator or with the injectors leaking. I'm hoping the 18 PSI at Key On Engine Off would lead me ( or someone) to the culprit.
Perhaps you should monitor the fuel pressure until the engine stumbles and quits to see if the fuel pressure drops off before quitting (etc.).
Also suggest you use a scanner that shows live data then monitor performance parameters, especially O2S cycling and short term fuel trim (STFT). High negative (-) STFT numbers indicates it's running rich, high positive (+) STFT numbers indicates it's running lean.
BTW: P0122 is also listed as a TCM diagnostics code.
Perhaps you should monitor the fuel pressure until the engine stumbles and quits to see if the fuel pressure drops off before quitting (etc.).
Also suggest you use a scanner that shows live data then monitor performance parameters, especially O2S cycling and short term fuel trim (STFT). High negative (-) STFT numbers indicates it's running rich, high positive (+) STFT numbers indicates it's running lean.
BTW: P0122 is also listed as a TCM diagnostics code.
I'll run those parameters this week.
Replaced fuel pump this weekend. Filter was off and black as coal. Also sediment in the bottom of the tank. Would not be at all surprised if some of that got into the pressure regulator valve and kept it from operating correctly as well as affecting the pump.
Also found at least one exhaust gasket that was shot below the collector. Replacing that this week as well.
I'll post results of O2 cycles and STFT by mid week.