I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport that has been suffering from common XJ electrical issues for some time, and I finally got around to trying to fix them. I've solved the problems I set out to, but discovered another along the way that is confusing me.

I started out with intermittent signals to my driver and passenger speakers, and the infamous child window-lock issue where only the driver's side window controls would work. I found the following YouTube videos extremely helpful:



I took the door panels off, repaired broken or damaged wires inside the boot (this fixed the speakers) and re-soldered two cracked connections on the driver's switch panel (this fixed the child window-lock).

My new problem is this: Now when the driver's-side switch panel is completely disconnected (both connectors removed) the passenger-side lock and unlock controls work fine. However, when I reconnect the driver's-side switch panel, only the unlock function works, on both the driver's and passenger's side controls. Moving the switch to the "lock" position does nothing - no clunk, click, or anything.All lock and unlock functions worked fine before I embarked on this project.

It would appear there is a short somewhere, but I am at a loss as to where it is. All the wires going through the boot (between the door and body) now look fine. The solder connections on the circuit board for the driver's-side now look fine also. Any idea which wire I should be tracing? Anybody have this particular issue before?

Sorry if this has been discussed elsewhere; I've done my googling, but I'm only finding answers to the usual speakers and window-lock issues. Thanks a ton!

 

My window controls work for driver side only. I cant roll them down if im not on the drivers side. Is this really a common problem? I thought my window lock was just stuck lmao.

 

Yeah, odds are the solder points for the child-lock switch are cracked (they were in the YouTube video, and they were on mine). A quick re-solder solved the problem.

 

One way to see if they are active of not, is to look at the lights on the buttons if lit everything should work. It just means power is being sent to each control panel.

 

Okay, I have an update. I replaced the entire driver's door switch assembly, and I am still having problems with the door lock switch. All lights do light up on the switches.

Here's what's now going on:

When key is removed from the ignition and the driver's door is closed (specifically the door jamb switch is pressed) the lock switch works normally. If the key is in the ignition (set to accessory position) and the driver's door is closed the lock switch works normally.

However, when the key is in the ignition and turned to the accessory position and the driver's door is open (the door jamb switch is unpressed) then the lock switch no longer functions (but unlock does).

Key in / Door closed = lock works normally
Key in / Door open = lock does not work
Key out / Door closed = lock works normally
Key out / Door open = lock works normally

It seems obvious there is a short or a loose wire somewhere, but I have no idea where to start looking. Does anybody have any ideas or maybe have run across this before?

Thanks!

 

I believe the symptoms you described are NORMAL. I believe this is so you don't accidentally lock your keys in the car. I was testing a newly installed door latch/actuator yesterday. I experienced the same symptoms you described and thought there was something wrong with the junk yard replacement. With the key out of the ignition, it works perfectly every time.

Dean

 

Tried to delete "double post" but can't find a delete option.
I believe the symptoms you described are NORMAL. I believe this is so you don't accidentally lock your keys in the car. I was testing a newly installed door latch/actuator yesterday. I experienced the same symptoms you described and thought there was something wrong with the junk yard replacement. With the key out of the ignition, it works perfectly every time.

Dean

 

Oh man. You fight with a problem long enough it's easy to forget where you started. On the plus side, I guess I fixed it? Lol!

Just got the rear latch working today too. Almost feels like a new car.

Thanks for the help everybody!

-FK

 

FusionKnight - The problem you had below is exactly what I am experiencing with my 1998 XJ. I was replacing speakers, and now I have the lock/unlock issue. I see where you said all your connections were ok (soldered joints not cracked). My locks all worker before I fixed the wiring in the door. What did you ultimately figure out was your issue? Just trying not to reinvent the wheel or waste a day messing with something that does not need to be messed with. Thank you in advance for any assistance on this older thread!

 

It's definitely been awhile since I dealt with this issue, so I've forgotten many of the details. As I recall I eventually identified the switch assembly as the culprit. There were definitely cracked solder joints, but fixing those didn't completely solve my problem. I replaced the entire unit (found one on ebay) and that fixed it. Maybe I damaged the board when I was disassembling it or re-soldering? I wasn't sure.

However, definitely pay attention to your key position! This really threw me off as I was testing. The car is designed to not let you lock your keys in the car. With the key in the ignition, the lock won't work (but unlock will).

Hope this helps! Good luck!