Dave51

In re: pulsing, is it both the resistance and the voltage? You've used both those measurements.

2 other possibilities are your testing technique is suspect or your DVM leads are bad.

FWIW my trace is 0.4 V and solid with KO.

BTW the SM does not list a testing procedure for CKS. Haynes has the "no resistance on BC". Maybe they didn't test it bilaterally. Or that's OEM.

Test CPS and CKS using method 2. CKS needs slow turning cause there's a lot of windows in there. A LOT more if somebody put a Renix flexplate in there.

Crabbi

so why would both crank sensors test different?
, or do i just buy another crank sensor? i think its worth a try, the ohm meter is not a cheap one, and i can ohm a regular piece of wire and verify it, i do it often actually, just to make sure im working with a good lead,
i will try the pulse test,

Crabbi

hey remember when i said it seemed like it was getting worse? and it has been, well today it gave out, i put the old crank sensor back in it fired right up, but was still popping through the intake, i let it idle a few mins and i heard a heavy tapping start in the valve cover, pulled valve cover cyl 2 rocker was loose as hell, lifter was squishy, lifter colapsed, pulled the head, found number two cyl had colapsed lifter and it was dished and number 3 had a lifter that was dished, two lifters the bottom of them got eaten away by the cam i suppose, the number 3 lifter still held its prime the number 2 lifter did not, these lifters never made it through the breakin period,
so here i sit agitated to say the least, i used sealed power because of there long standing in the industry, there not the cheap ones usually, and felpro gaskets everything i bought was not cheap stuff, so, the cam lobe is hard to see but it is scored a little before and after the hump on the two lifters that got dished, im screwed now, i think i need to replace the cam, that means pull the engine, or snake it out through the fron if i remove th rad and condenser
how much wear on that cam can i get away with or should i just dump another motor in it?

Dave51

IIWM I'd get a new cam and lifters, slather them up with Comp Cams Lube, add a 5 pound bag of Scott's Zinc, Phosphorous and Crabgrass Killer to the oil and do it all over again.

That said, since you still may have an underlying issue (or more); this issue(s) may have contributed to frying the lifters in 20 minutes; and you still have that time bomb 0331 head, the above is probably a stupid idea.

Start a new thread and page 5-Speed. Get his thoughts on the likelihood of success of going down that road again.

Crabbi

Im now leaning to swapping the engine, everything i read about after market cam kits for jeeps says they are failing also?, its on this site,so its a gamble either way,

did not think new lifters would grind down like this, i talked to the machine shop owner, he said the hdr lifters flat tappes are all turning to crap, poor quality metal, he said hes personally eaten a motor due to lifters grinding the bottoms off,
All i know is either way i still stuck lol
any ideas?

Crabbi

DAVE51

thank you for your help, i sincerely appreciate it,

i think this started with a sensor failure then in the middle a lifter ground down no it went from one problem to another very seamlessly, until i heard that tap today, then i had to see,
Guess this jeep dont want to keep going is all, and i didnt help it none lol

I am not done though, ill put a cam and lifters in it, flush the engine out good, then the head will crack lmao

Dave51

Were the valves intakes or exhaust, or a mix? Line 'em up, mark 'em with a marker don't mix 'em up.

3/4" play on the timing chain is clearly out of spec maybe that was an issue.

When the guy rebuilt the head did he use the old springs or did he put in new?

IIWM I'd get that cam sync question answered before I dropped any more Franklins in there.

Old oil pump? A lot of time during break in @10 PSI (or less if you spend a lot of time cranking) certainly didn't help.

Lots of zinc and phosphorous whatever you do! Rotella!

Dave51

Cause by that sequence of events you still got the original problem.

Crabbi

Its toast, the shavings went through everything, i pulled the cam today, the cam bearings are wiped out, two lobes are all but gone, both lifters that dished were intake valves, which explains the popping, it doesnt explain a good compression test though twice and no check engine light for misfire, probly the original issue still in the back ground,
My options are simple, total rebuild with a different head, or find a used engine, 2000 and 2001 are suppsedly the only years that have my engine, that makes this fun,
i dont know if i even fixed the original problem, i may have and the issue kind morphed into this issue, but the last time i had a good scanner on it it would not sync the cam, could have been timing chain, ill never know unless its there and i put another engine in it

Such is life,

Thank you sincerely for all the help in here, not all problems come out fixed, some are catastrophic, the shavings are everywhere in there im sure it was grinding more than just cam bearings,

Knucklebuster

My 98 had a worn out bearing in the distributor shaft which caused intermittent pulses from the cam position sensor. Found it with a 2 channel analog ocilloscope. There's videos on you tube which show how to do this.