2 Xjs with High idle
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CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 2
From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Well I payed a mobile mechanic to come out, take a look and see if he could get the seal out. He got it out after about 45 min. Ge thinks the rms was the original. It was rock solid when we pulled it out. He had to loosen all of the bearing caps and I had to turn the crank while he tapped it out. He was here about 1 1/2 hrs total. Now I just gotta finish scraping the old gasket off and then ill be good to put everything back and see how it works.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Well I payed a mobile mechanic to come out, take a look and see if he could get the seal out. He got it out after about 45 min. Ge thinks the rms was the original. It was rock solid when we pulled it out. He had to loosen all of the bearing caps and I had to turn the crank while he tapped it out. He was here about 1 1/2 hrs total. Now I just gotta finish scraping the old gasket off and then ill be good to put everything back and see how it works.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 2
From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I had this problem for some time and finally solved it permanently. The Knock Sensor wiring is shielded with a very flimsy foil that degrades over time leaving the wiring unshielded and subject to induced voltages. OPTION 1: Replace the shielding with some tube braided wire mesh that you will attach to ground (both ends is recommmended but just one grounded end seems to work). Run it the full length of the wiring, look at the original wiring and you'll see where the original shielding foil starts and stops as a guide. OIPTION 2: Replace the wiring with a shielded twisted wire pair and ground the shield appropriately.
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