I'm sure someone will point me in the right direction here (previous posts etc), but I have recently bought a Jeep Cherokee XJ Limited (1998) 2.5 TD with 154k miles and would love to share a few 'experiences' with the group to help me brief an auto-electrician / mechanic on what needs done.

I intend to use the Jeep as a daily driver and not a committed off-roader, therefore happy to keep it completely standard (as it is now).


I got it relatively cheap and it has just passed its MOT road worthiness test, so I have done about 400 miles since then.

So.... What's it like? Well it has a few issues and a few quirks, some of which might just be 'the way' however, I thought I would share anyway.

Electrical:

- Passenger door window control doesn't work (Driver can put it down, but not back up)
- Rear passengers can't put their windows down either (driver can)
- Heater selector only works at level 4 (not 1, 2 or 3)
- Some of the electric seat adjust functions work (on both front seats) but not all
- Front door speakers are crackly / cutting out

I feel that most of these are related to a particular loom, or where the wires bridge the doors.

The biggest issue (in terms of usability) is the fact that after sitting overnight it starts and immediately cuts out again. I 'think' this has something to do with the immobiliser, because if I disconnect the battery and leave it for 5 mins, it works again. I have read this has something to do (again) with wires kinking in the door jams, but most specifically the boot (or trunk) lid.

Driving:

For a high miler, it drives really well. One thing I noticed, is the gearing is short. I have to change up quickly through the first three gears to keep up momentum. It could be that the clutch is worn and the the thing is just revving out, because it does feel like the power is dropping away quickly unless you change up. Is this a trait of the diesel performance? Not having driven one before I'm not sure.

So there you have it a few niggles, but hopefully nothing too dramatic that will be a show stopper. I really love the old girl and look forward to hearing any thoughts on the above.

Cheers,

Will

 

1. Can passenger put the window up? If so, then it's the driver's side switch. If not, you can switch the terminals in the connector to the motor, causing it to go up when you press down, and vice versa. If it now works going up, but now down, then you know it's not the motor. Wiring is suspect at that point (neither driver's nor passenger's switch can put it up, but motor works both directions)

2. If they work from the driver's switch, then it's definitely the rear switches...

3. Either the Speed Control Switch in the dash or the Motor Resistor mounted to the side of the heater box.

4. Issues are internal to the seat, so you'll need to troubleshoot each individually

5. 5-1/4 are stock, 6-1/2 will fit with a little work

 

For the window issue, it's probably broken solder joints in the driver's master switch. I've had the same issue with my '98. It's one of those "they all do that eventually" problems.

For the heater fan, your blower motor resistor is shot. You can access it under the glove box fairly easily. Replacements are available online.

 

Are you sure about that? I think the master switch being finnicky will cause the rear switches to no respond, even though they work just fine. It's like someone pressed the window lock button even though they didn't.

If it only works on the highest speed setting, it's probably the resistor since that's the only one that doesn't use the resistor to slow the fan.

 

Forgot about the lockout in the driver's switch...

In the process of replacing the Speed Control Switch in my 94 and the only speed that works is high... I too thought it was the resistor until I pulled the old one out to install the new one.

 

This is great, thanks... I had a dig around and got the window motor (passengers side) to work, so definitely the wiring / switches.

I'm also going to systematically run through the grounds and give them a clean, because I'm reading about those being problematic. Kinda makes sense with the older cars.

W

 

Okay... Still having issues with my Jeep, but intend to do a ground wire clean tomorrow. One thing I did notice is an LED (red) at the front of the roof mounted console flashes 10 times after I switch the ignition off. Is this a code? I can't seem to find anything about it online... I'm sure it's common for diesels and gas models.

 

Adding a short ground wire from the metal structure of the dash over to the body really brightens up the gauge cluster, and presumably helps everything else in the dash as well....

 

I have a 98 auto recently went through rear windows not going back up. Replaced the drivers switch cluster from ebay was pretty cheap and good part. However that didn't cure it. After many disassembles over a couple weeks, it turned out what everyone was saying was true. If you look close at the drivers door where the big rubber boot that protects the wiring from the door to the car, that boot had popped out along the backside. This allowed the wires inside to chafe on the sharp edge of the knockout hole, which in turn severed one of them and scraped others bare allowing them to short out against the door. Once that was rectified all of the windows worked just fine.

 

Had a play with the Jeep today... I managed to get it started by spraying deodorant into the air intake and turning it over on the key. I had checked the electrics and everything was fine, so thought I'd try with another fuel source!!
Anyway, she starts and runs no bother now, which make me think it was an air lock or fuel starvation... I assume it will happen again, but at least I can now get it to a garage to brief them.

I will take the notes from above to the auto-electrician. The chafing wires seems quite a common thing.

Thanks all.

W