I replaced the actuator and reattached all the rods and all work except the outside button on the door handle. I tightened the adjustment in the jamb (allen head) and it's still not disengaging the latch! I can stick my finger in the hole where the button pin pushes the lever, and manually push that lever farther than the pin can reach to disengage the latch. It's almost like the pin is not long enough...can it wear down?? Anyone had this issue and can provide a fix...maybe have to replace the handle??

 

I have a driver's side rear door that is right at the edge of not opening. I have to push the button ALL the way in and it barely disengages.

I haven't got to that door yet as I am systematically going through each door treating the inside of the sheet metal with internal frame coating and taking everything apart to clean and lube, including the latch mechanisms.

I'm tagging your thread to see if I can learn something regarding "pin/plunger wear".

 

Trying to think of the pin you are referring too.
I took a door handle apart once cause thinking of painting them.
Was curious how they came apart. Thinking using some SEM Trim Black if I did.
Anyway IIRC thinking the rod just connected to that piece on the right.
So I wonder if the spring is shot that that pushing the button does force the rod to move.

 

So maybe as easy as stretching the spring out a little? Or what does the spring contact? Maybe that could be "built up" a bit? A layer of JB Weld or JB Weld a thin piece of metal?

I haven't taken mine apart yet to really look at them

And lastly, but important, did you paint them with SEM and if so, how did they turn out?

 

Maybe.
Just a guess on my part about the spring to be clear.
And no I have not painted them.
Just tired of using ArmorAll, cause they fade, and then getting wax on them that turns white if I don't get it all off when I wax my '00.
My hope is that the SEM stuff is paint and now can just slobber wax on everything.
LOL.

 

I'd lean towards the plastic clips that connect the linkage rods to handle and lock having worn out.

 

Here is the pin I'm referring to

 

Did my video come through?...able to view?

 

I was able to.

 

I'm dealing with the same situation on my driver door... only problem is in my case it isn't a handle issues. It is the actuator isn't springing back after the button is pushed in and released. So it stays like the button is pushed in unless you manually move it back into position via the access whole before shutting the door. So annoying and I believe im just going to bite the bullet and buy a new actuator assembly.

 

jsl1028, the pin from the push button can definitely wear. My welder friend said
he couldn't lengthen the pin on mine, it is too small.

I brought him a small plate (about 12mm X 9mm X 3mm) and he tack welded it
onto the piece the pin pushes against, covering the surface that the pin touches.
That accomplishes the same thing as extending the pin. Maybe epoxy cured
24 hours would hold, too, if you don't have access to a welder.

FlyinRyan, if you have it apart, can you just replace the spring ? or free up
whatever is binding? Maybe the pin is digging into the piece, which can happen,
and welding a little plate over that would fix it. Or, new door handles on rockauto.com
were $ 24-30 last time I checked.

 

In my situation the handle is fine and the pin fully contacts the little plate, the problem is the plate doesn't return back so the door is ilke the button is still pushed in and doesn't open if shut. When I get time i'm going to yank that actuator assembly and see if I can pinpoint what spring or part is not doing its job

 

As an update to this thread, on my one door that was requiring a full push to get it to open, I just adjusted the Allen screw inside the door and now it opens fine.

 

only problem is in my case it isn't a handle issues. It is the actuator isn't springing back after the button is pushed in and released.

 

I was having the same problem with my door handle button not working and stumbled upon this 3 year old thread. I installed a new door lock/latch on the passenger front door and afterwards pressing the button from the outside would not open the door latch. It was close, but it seemed the rod going from the button to the latch assembly didn't have the proper travel and needed to be slightly longer. I came up with a solution and thought I'd share it for anyone else who may find this thread. I removed the rod in question and cut it in two with a hacksaw. I then cut 8-32 threads on either end and rejoined the pieces with a threaded spacer in between. I used blue loctite, adjusted the length to my liking and now it works fine. I even set the length so the button engages sooner than it did before.


Freshly cut

cut 8-32 threads 3/4 of an inch long on each end

threaded both ends together with blue loctite