Each mechanism isn't complicated but the entire locking mechanisms from the pull cable is sort of as it requires to be in good working order. If not in good working order what often happens is the pull cable eventually breaks.

It's important the pull cable handle is correctly secured down iirc, by all of the screws in the interior as sometimes the cable bracket becomes loose causing the cable to break.

The hardware under my hood was rusted and mucked up so I removed it and used an electric wire brush on it and then repainted some of it with alum. paint. * However didn't use paint on the interior areas because of springs and other mechanisms.

Removed the L shaped metal piece that the cable connects cleaned it up and repainted making certain it wasn't bent. .

Then completely removed the two side spring latches and the bar that runs between them and cleaned them up with the electric wheel wire brush.

Also removed the main (middle latch) and the two side spring latches from the engine compartment and cleaned those up as well. (you can give them some paint if needed but recommend only on the exterior areas)

During re-installation, only a light oil or silicon spray was used. If a heavy grease is used, potentially the mechanisms will collect dirt and become mucked up again. * (the hood locking mechanisms should be occasionally lubricated with some light oil, I'm not certain how frequent, every oil change or possibly longer duration?)

Also replaced the wire cable from the interior with an OEM as I went through two aftermarkets, of which both broke. This cable needs to be secured and routed properly or it often doesn't work correctly and causes problems. (this too was lubricated with some very light, slippery oil)

The aftermarket pull cables aren't quite as sturdy as the OEM but should work ok as long as everything is cleaned up, lubed and secured correctly.

The aftermarkets can be found as little as $11.00 (with shipping) on ebay. I think if installed correctly (secured with all the screw bolts (which their may be a third bolt) after cleaning and lubing up all the hood latch mechanisms should work ok and not break.

I'm not certain why auto manufactures make this sort of thing so technical and imo finicky, but for whatever reason they do. If something is off a little, potentially causes problem.

An alternative is to install two side (keyed or unkeyed) latches in the hood and remove the OEM latch.

here's a pic of a XJ's hood latch which I cleaned up only the exterior and didn't attempt to take apart and clean.



Same with the two side latches, only cleaned up areas accessible with a wire brush.


Cleaned up and painted the L shaped mech. Drilled out the two rivets and replaced with self tapping bolt type screws a little larger than the rivets, or can replace with new rivets.