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1996 Starter Solenoid Problem & overheat problem

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Old 09-24-2018, 07:34 PM
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Default 1996 Starter Solenoid Problem & overheat problem

Hi, I've had my 4.0L 1996 Jeep Cherokee for a few months now and I have come across two problems. The first problem I have is (I think) with the starter solenoid. I went out in it the other day, went into a store, 15 minutes later, came out and it wouldn't start, no crank, just a click. After about 10 minutes of trying it fired back up. I drove it home, turned the engine off, same problem, no crank, just a click. I've done a few things to rule some stuff out (as far as I can tell, I'm fresh into dealing with cars). I've tried to start it in neutral to rule out the neutral switch, won't start. Ive tried to tighten connections to the battery and solenoid, no joy. I tapped the starter a couple of times, fired straight up. So as far as I can tell, it will be the starter/starter solenoid. The issue is, i'm a little concerned, because as soon as I took my foot off the gas the engine cut out and I had to tap the starter motor to start it up again. Surely with the engine started the starter motor shouldn't make the engine cut out? Could there be another problem I'm not seeing on top of the starter problem?

The other issue I have, is with overheating. Even on a cool day, if I leave the engine idling, the temperature goes through the roof. It even happens as fast as being sat at traffic lights, therefore city driving is a bit of a pain. I tend to throw the heaters on and windows down to try and get the temp down, but being in Australia and coming up to summer, I'm not sure thats going to be an option for much longer. If the engine is hot when the engine is turned off, I also have to wait for it to cool down before it will start again. Replaced the fuel filter, because it felt like it was starving of fuel and it needed doing anyways, but it doesn't seem to have done anything. Any info on this one would be much appreciated as I don't want to cook myself in my jeep as the weather gets hotter down here.

Thanks in advance
Ben
Old 09-24-2018, 08:16 PM
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If you turn the key and hear a click, it almost certainly rules out the NSS (bad NSS = no click, no nothing). Everything you have described sounds like a system voltage issue. Either due to connections, poor battery performance, or poor alternator performance. The running poorly, and dying with the foot off the gas is another symptom of that. The starter is probably just a symptom, and not the cause. Start by cleaning the connections (not just tightening) and have the battery tested at an auto parts store that offers that free service (common in US, I hope you can do it there as well).

Coolant temperature that increases at idle is often attributed to a failing fan clutch. It is responsible for increasing mechanical fan rpm as the radiator gets hotter. While other things could be the cause, this is the quickest and probably cheapest thing to look into first. If the temperature only goes up at idle, than the fan clutch should be replaced, and the electric fan should be tested to ensure it is working properly. For a 96, the electric fan should come on automatically at around 220F, or anytime the air conditioner is enabled (doesn't sound like that applies in your case).
Old 09-24-2018, 08:16 PM
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:35 AM
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100% Agree with Jordan.

Sounds like a corroded cable that's barely making sufficient contact so a little jostling (either by driving or thumping the vehicle) is the difference between running and not running. However, the XJ is known for being very picky about proper battery function, so a dying battery may also be at play.

If there aren't the free services for battery testing the way we have in the states, it might be worth it to buy a battery tester rather than paying a fee (that may be comparable to buying a decent tester). Just a thought.
Old 06-13-2019, 05:33 AM
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I have the same problems on my 96 Cherokee sport, been smacking the solenoid with a hammer for awhile until recently I got off my lazy butt and replaced it. The overheating issue has been nothing short of a nightmare and it continues as I have replaced almost everything. Getting ready to put in a dual core radiator and some fancy wiring for basically a switch to turn on the elec fan. Had air in the system and that actually did help once I fully purged it but now I just replaced a sensor that only sends the voltage for the gauge and (LOL) now the elc fan doesn't even come on until I put the defroster on. IDK but it definitely seems like a short or something. Replaced thermostats from 160-195 degrees, water pump, hoses, flushed, kicked, yelled, cussed, loved, made love in the back and damn nothing has done the job yet. So now ima replace the radiator with an extra core and pray it at least does something other than overheat. Well if anyone ants to yell at it from across oceans or states that would be lovely.
Old 06-13-2019, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 2qtslo
IThe overheating issue has been nothing short of a nightmare and it continues as I have replaced almost everything. Getting ready to put in a dual core radiator and some fancy wiring for basically a switch to turn on the elec fan.
That won't solve your problem. It may mask it, but it won't solve it. A properly working cooling system will keep your engine happy in stop-n-go traffic at 110 degree outside temperature. If yours won't, find the real problem and fix it. Don't try to work around something broken by modifying the system.

Originally Posted by 2qtslo
Had air in the system and that actually did help once I fully purged it but now I just replaced a sensor that only sends the voltage for the gauge and (LOL) now the elc fan doesn't even come on until I put the defroster on. IDK but it definitely seems like a short or something.
Shorts create blown fuses.


Originally Posted by 2qtslo
Replaced thermostats from 160-195 degrees, water pump, hoses, flushed, kicked, yelled, cussed, loved, made love in the back and damn nothing has done the job yet.
Have you tested for exhaust gases in the coolant?


You should probably create your own thread on this.
Old 06-13-2019, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
That won't solve your problem. It may mask it, but it won't solve it. A properly working cooling system will keep your engine happy in stop-n-go traffic at 110 degree outside temperature. If yours won't, find the real problem and fix it. Don't try to work around something broken by modifying the system.



Shorts create blown fuses.




Have you tested for exhaust gases in the coolant?


You should probably create your own thread on this.
A short to ground will blow fuses but not necessarily into another circuit. I was just talking and adding my own fun time to the thread.
Old 06-13-2019, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Benjamin Morris
Hi, I've had my 4.0L 1996 Jeep Cherokee for a few months now and I have come across two problems. The first problem I have is (I think) with the starter solenoid. but being in Australia and coming up to summer, I'm not sure thats going to be an option for much longer.

Thanks in advance
Ben
From an Aussie with 3 x '96

sounds like you have several issues common on a old poorly-maintained XJ

Assuming your battery. terminals, wires and earths are ok;

to check if its the solenoid, short the solenoid, ignition and Starter terminals with a spanner, if it starts, its the solenoid, which can be replaced for about $50, if not replace or O/H the starter

if ur using the heater to supplement the radiator, generally means radiator is not very effective.

after verifying electric fan is cutting in at 105C, replace the radiator with $100 plastic-end Oz Ebay unit (unless you want to spend more for no good reason)

Once your car starts and doesnt overheat, that will allow you to consider whether the "no restart on hot" is due to the "Crankshaft Position Sensor" needs replace (probably), or some other issue
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