jmrec100

Standard , no lift.
I've read many posts of this problem. I'm going to start with the track bar and then then what are the connecting parts called, tie rod ends?
I need to do it this weekend so any answer is appreciated. I was going to buy from RockAuto but I'm ignorant of the part names.
I can order trackbar

1 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....180213&jsn=399 at $36 or

2 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....180213&jsn=400 at $54
I don't want to spend a lot of money on it. But I sure don't want to replace it again in a year. Its a daily Driver.

Then do I need to buy the trackbar bushing too? I'm thinking the whole trackbar has it already mounted.
3 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....180213&jsn=411

Then to buy the ball joints, They attach the trackbar. ?
so do I order both an front lower?
4a http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....sn=429&jsn=429
at $6
should I go with more expensive
4b http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....180213&jsn=432
at $18

and front upper?
5a http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....sn=430&jsn=430 at $6.35

should I go with more expensive
5b http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....180213&jsn=431
at $13

I'm not trying to be cheap, just what I need.

I already have new Motor and trans mounts to install too.

dzywicki

If you are chasing a wobble, you really should jack up the front end and check all of the typical wear pieces:

Check this for an excellent diagram
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/xj...plained-75047/

Track bar
Tie rod ends
ball joints
lower control arms
upper control arms
Sway bar link.

On the control arms and track bar, you can try to just replace the bushings. I replaced just the bushings because eI was going to poly. It is not the easiest process in the world. If you don't have a lot of patience and an air chisel I would just go with replacements that have the bushings installed already.
Sway bar links are easy. Lower control arms are easy if you buy them with the bushings in place. the uppers can be a bear because the axle bushings are pressed into the axle housing. Not fun to get those out.

Ball joints are not too bad since you can rent a ball joint press from most auto shops. You can do some searching for how to check those for wear.

I had replaced all of my suspension bushings with poly and still had a wobble. Turns out I had not completely tightened the track bar end on the axle.

In my opinion, if you are going to start replacing front suspension components, I would try to do them all at once. If they are all original, there is no doubt they would need replacing.

dzywicki

forgot to add. for ball joints, I have always gone with Moog. That job is unpleasant enough that I don't want to get a cheaper "lifetime: warranty part and have to repeat replacement. Spicer is the original equipment and you definitely wouldn't go wrong with those either.

jmrec100

Thanks, It is definitely due for major replacement parts in the suspension. I'll take your advice to see if I can do it all at once. As for the Pitman arm, should I just get bushings? Don't find anything at RockAuto called Pitman arm except for a tool.
I may go to Napa for parts to work on the Jeep this weekend.

dzywicki

The joint that attaches to the pitman arm will be part of the tie rod end/drag link. I have never actually been able to remove the pitman arm from the steering box. I have broken several pitman arm removers, but the dam thing has never come off for me. If you have never removed a tie rod end, this is what I end up doing. loosen the not but keep it on loose. Hit all around the link end where the joint goes through. Usually a few sharp whacks will get it to let go. If all else fails a pick fork can be used. that will destroy the boot, but if your replacing them it won't matter.
Probably worth checking the ball joints before you jump in to replace them. There are plenty of videos on the youtubes about that.

jmrec100

Thanks for all the posts. If buy only the bushings, can they be pressed out then new in with a 2-1/2 ton arbor press? Or is it not worth the effort.

fb97xj1

Dont forget to schedule an alignment afterwards. Like said, try to do everything at once. A 2 1/2 ton arbor sounds small, but all i have ever used was a 12 ton hydraulic, so im a bit biased on tonnage. The higher, the better.

dzywicki

When I replaced all my bushings I went with poly so the hard part was getting the old ones out. It was a bear until I got an air chisel. After that it was a breeze. I'm sure a press would work fine too. I didn't have to press the poly in, they just slid right in with a little poly grease. It is pretty amazing how different the vehicle is with fresh suspension bushings. Best thing I ever did for the car.