FIXED. . . . . .see post #10

Anyone that has been around for a while has read or responded to my posts regarding this problem. I have sent it to a second shop that touted a great mech/troubleshooter. He cant find the problem either. He is stumped after two weeks of working on it. The only part in the ignition circuit is the distributor that hasn't been replaced. The cam position sensor was replaced. as well as the coil and coil wire. So I'm about $1500 down this rabbit hole with nothing to show. I really like my cherry XJ and hate to sell it off.

So who sells a dependable new or rebuilt distributor for a 4.0?

Couple questions:

How did you verify it's ignition related?

What all parts have you verified good? (Replaced does not mean verified good)

Have you considered the ignition switch?

As each part was replaced, the symptoms did not change.

Crank Position Sensor (3)
Cam Position Sensor
Idle Air Control
ASD Relay
Fuel Pump Fuel Filter
PCM
Ignition Coil
Dizzy Cap & Rotor
Ignition Switch

Verifying some parts is easy. Others like the CPS is not.

I have a video, just cant post it up

I realize that you are not working on the thing yourself so hard to answer the questions but I'm wondering just the basics:

- when it dies...do you have spark? Do you have fuel pressure? What voltage is the electrical system showing?

​​​​​​- when it dies, what's it take to get it running again?

I don't know what's wrong with the thing, if I did I would tell you, but somehow I doubt it's the distributor. I would be looking real hard at electrical; grounds, connectors etc.

exasemech

- when it dies...do you have spark? Since it restarts easily when it quits YES

Do you have fuel pressure? YES

What voltage is the electrical system showing? 12.3

​​​​​​-When it dies, what's it take to get it running again? Just turn the key if fires right up and runs normally

But somehow I doubt it's the distributor. I agree the only thing in there is the Hall effect sensor


Whats weird is it will run without fail for an hour. Then start acting up. Engine temp has no effect. We jumpered the ASD relay to stay activated. No change.

When running!?

Heh.. no Thats acceptable @ 13.5 Some times lower when its be charging for a bit.

I'm thinking about running a jumper wire from Batt+ to the coil+ . As a test of course.

On your parts cannon list you said you replaced the "cam position sensor" Yours is a 92. What did you actually replace?
If you already replaced the pickup in the distributor there's nothing electrical in there that you haven't replaced already.
Assuming the distributor shaft isn't wobbling around a new Asian distributor would likely be worse than what's in there.

The wife and I have decided to sell the Goat. There are numerous reasons and believe me I have invested years of time and money to keep her going. I know someday I'll regret this decision. For now its time to throw in the towel.

Shes a beauty for a 92. Straight and very clean. ZERO rust, VG tires, EX interior, 200k on the clock. Converted to rear disc brakes so the ABS works but the parking brake is disabled.

These are selling for $8-10k Whats you guys figure shes worth? Before I post a price thats going to start a sh*t storm.

After spending almost 2k in parts and shop charges, I found a shop in town that is great in solving problems like these.

I had repaired and thermal wrapped the O2 sensor harness a few years ago. During all this time the repair wrap was inspected with no signs of damage. They found the heatwrap was hiding the problem. Upon opening the heatwrap, those wires were baked, allowing them to short out amongst each other. Literally the wire bundle had melted all the wires together.

The repair included extending the harness and rerouting well away from the header tubes.

Shes back on the road and runs just as well as ever.