salad

AFAIK somewhere in the early 90s. The EV1s are the big bulbous suckers like Renix OE. Can't remember the last year I saw them at a JY but some ZJs have them too.

SuperRA

I just got 16.1mpg mixed Hwy and city. Somewhat "spirited" driving and 255 tires. This is on 710 injectors.

DFlintstone

I don't know what you are driving Suppraa. The mileage numbers mean very little if they are not corrected for your tires. If you look back in this thread there is a link that will give info on the 710's. Glad you are doen well! (that milage sounds about right for "mixed)

SuperRA

Oh, my XJ is an 87 Renix 4.0 4WD. Pretty much all stock except for the wheels. Tires are 255-55R16 which are very close to the stock diameter. I'm sure they have more rolling resistance than the stock size though.

I swapped in the 710s 6 years ago but the XJ was garaged for 6 years after that as I was restoring it. Now I'm driving it and can actually report mileage numbers. I read your thread and was about to look for some 746s until I read a post that had a chart saying that the 710s had the same flowrate just different impedance. I did clean up the intake/exhaust ports somewhat, gasket match them and smoothed out the bowls, but I can't imagine the little that I did would help that much. I think the next step would be to try an advanced CPS.

DFlintstone

Yea, without looking I thought the 710'were about right. There is a link to some tables early in this thread. It's late...anyway without really knowing I don't think a couple ohm's makes much of a difference. IIRC 16 is stock for us.

Even the higher flow 703's are OK except when its in "default" mode it will be rich. I use multiple checks of the county mile markers to come up with what % difference I think I have, then a second hand or stop watch to check for a mile in a minute at 60. 57-1/2 on my speedo moves me a mile a minute with the 235's I have, about 5% under reading.

OK, I went ahead and looked on page 2. Assuming you have the 155 710 you have the right rate and 14.5 ohms. the 150 710 is a lower flow...

Again without really knowing the details I'd guess it's just drawing a tad more current. (14.5 vs 16). I have seen that the transistors that control the power to the injectors ARE something that can fail in the ECU, but after 6 years I suppose you can sleep OK!

SuperRA

Oh, I didn't realize there were two 710s, I just checked and I have the 155 710s.

Unfortunately the clock starts now. It was sitting in the garage for those 6 years, so no reliability data until recently. Seems to have been running well though! If a transistor does blow, I do have a spare computer. I can also change out the transistors if they do blow and possibly put in some higher current replacements. Also, I can just go ahead and swap in 746s if ECU does fail.

With a quick calc, and some assumptions, seems 16ohms will draw 0.9A and 14.5 ohms will draw 1.0A assuming a voltage of 14.4 (likely to be lower). I'll still cross my fingers..

DFlintstone

Cool! It seems you "know things", (likely more than me). Yea it was one obscure post by some poor guy in Russia or the Balkins or somewhere. He cracked open his ECU and found the one bad transistor for one if his injectors....

I have yet to get a noid light to flash with 12v, even a little dash bulb. Maybe I had something wrong. What DID work well was a (presumably), 4.5 volt bulb from a three cell Mag-Light I happened to have handy. Idk, maybe mine is weak.....some say a 12v dash bulb should work.

Also a roughly 3 volt led worked. What I had handy was actually three in parallel. Maybe 1-1/2 flashed.

An odd side note...I get nearly 22 on the highway, but as low as 11 something knocking around. (@276K). I'm still a little puzzled over that one. Allot of gravel/slow/ hills here..

SuperRA

Nah, I don't know things, lol. I just fiddle with stuff.

I forgot to mention that I have E-fans as well. Those probably help some with the MPGs. DFlinstone, do you have a thread showing all the mods you did to achieve your 22mpg? Or is the list short?

DFlintstone

Really I just got everything right. (I did check everything). New 02 sensor. Replaced the TPS and CPS. The 746's. I removed the restriction out of the airbox to the TB. I have a 225 ohm resistor in place of my IAT. I removed a bug guard thing that waz on the front on the hood. All stock, it sits a little low on old springs. It got that or better 10 years ago, (on better fuel), I just got it back. Hwy. MPG anyway). Also that's really highway. I'm either going slow on gravel (gettn less than 16), or making the 300 mile trip down 101 from The Oregon boarder to Santa Rosa, so that is "pure" highway...almost.

Oh and my fan clutch IDK. It's old as the hills. I just feel medium resistance hot or cold. If anything it runs too cool. The first 195* t stat I swapped in didn't seem to close good enough, fast enough so I bought another 195* OEM Stat.

I keep forgetting to try a tip, --- see how long it "free-weels" on shut down, hot and cold. It might be a heavy duty the PO installed. Maybe I can pick up another MPG if I install a "looser" one. It's been fine since 02.

DFlintstone

Hey Flintstone I got an 87 Renix will those injectors that you guys were talkin about work for my year of Jeep? And if so is there any chance of getting a part Number or is 280 155 746 the number and what yr and model of volvo do those come from and about how much for a set Thanks my friend

Yesser! Just that a bosch #, And yes on the 87. I got mine as is, for like $30 something on Ebay. A couple were sticky/messed up. I just juiced them with 12 volts and blasted cleaner through and got lucky I guess. I don't even know how to properly clean them. I juess Bosch (or someone) sells kits with new stuff like the filter screen and O rings. Then a good to go, "flow matched" set, Idk...$120? Flow matched is when they put them in a tester, then make sets with the ones that flow closer to the same.

You can google that number as well I can....Volvos though!

I'm posting your PM in the thread

DFlintstone

???

DFlintstone

Hey CF. I don't know how to take a Bosch injector apart. With the used I bought I was afraid to break something. I just energized them and back flushed, (with 12v).

Also on my first swap to 703"s I had a bunch of manifold stuff apart. Question is, I don't remember the next swap to the 746's. The rail can come loose still connected at both ends IIRC. (for a swap), Or is it better to separate the front from the FPR to do the swap. I'm pretty sure I left the regulator connected.

I've had guys asken. I sort of got the #'s down, but still am rough on the process.

Maybe someone who has done a few will share on the process. I'm a big strong guy, and found it very tough to "get them home", in the manifold, while they were seated in the rail. One at a time in the manifold, then the rail?

What say you, experienced CF flox?

hbracing13

So if I'm understanding right is that the 701, 710 are similar to the 746? Also the the 746 are better the 703 which everyone has come to belive? Also in doin cruiser high alt cps mod, and either reclotating the IAT sensor or adding a 225 ohm resistor to trick it into being in closed loop.

cruiser54

The resistor is not proven IMHO. Relocation of IAT and CPS advance mod/high altitude CPS work well. I have monitored the readings from the IAT with my DRB factory scan tool.

Closed loop is good. Open loop bad for MPGs and performance.

hbracing13

Is being that alb is at around 4k- 10k depending on where you are at I should prob do the high alt adj? And as far as relocation the IAT where should I move it to?