1990 Cherokee no spark HELP!!!
I do not hear rapid clicking. I think I found my problem though. Mines a 1989, and it has a 94 ax-15 in it now. That ax-15 has a different flywheel which has different read points for the cps from an 89. So I may have to switch the flywheel to the one that came out of the 1989 ax-15.
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 41
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From: Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I do not hear rapid clicking. I think I found my problem though. Mines a 1989, and it has a 94 ax-15 in it now. That ax-15 has a different flywheel which has different read points for the cps from an 89. So I may have to switch the flywheel to the one that came out of the 1989 ax-15.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Always do Tip 1 first. That's why it's numbered as 1. Always remove and inspect those wires per the instructions. You can never assume they're good.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Were you able to drive it after you installed the new transmission? If so, then that's not the case. In my opinion, the flywheel shouldn't matter. It's the general motion of it that magnetizes the cps and causes the voltage reading. Check the grounds on the dipstick tube. Shake them and pull on the wires, make sure none of them have broken or come loose. My theory is that if the car hasn't been messed with since it was bought, then the only cause of a no start is a failed component or gunk/corrosion. Jumper your fuel pump relay and go to the back of the car and listen to make sure it's pressurizing.
It's rarely failed components on the Renix Jeeps except for CPS or TPS.
The ground issues, among many others addressed in my Tips, were present when the Jeeps were new and I worked as Service Manager at the dealership. With a 90, you should do 1,3,4,and 5 at a bare minimum.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 925
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From: Fort Erie, CANADA
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
In my experience with older vehicles in the "rust belt" we have here, you can never assume your grounding is perfect. That dipstick ground issue was the source of intermittent cut-outs for me. Mine would always start great when cold and then I would drive around the block, shut it down and it wouldn't re-start. I read Cruiser's tips and sanded off that bolt hole with a Dremel tool, then did the same for the block to fire wall ground strap. That made a big difference and never had that problem again.
Last weekend, I was just checking the resistance from the negative battery post and the rad support and it seemed a little high so I strapped on a cable from the dipstick stud to the firewall and it went to zero. I wasn't having any issues but didn't want to start having one either with the cold weather here.
Last weekend, I was just checking the resistance from the negative battery post and the rad support and it seemed a little high so I strapped on a cable from the dipstick stud to the firewall and it went to zero. I wasn't having any issues but didn't want to start having one either with the cold weather here.
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