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1990 Cherokee loredo coolant issue

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Old 05-03-2012, 06:45 PM
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Default 1990 Cherokee loredo coolant issue

I'm living in Bahrain and the temps starting to soar(100'). Just the other day I sustained a crack in the coolant reservoir. I have a new one on order but imagine the rad needs a flush and new hoses as well. I've noticed diff types of hoses for upper an lower. Some without springs, w/ ac or w/o... What does that mean and which do I need? Oh it's a 4 liter I 6

What other work should I get done? Water pumP? Second efan??

I'm also having issues w the a/c. It only blows out the top of the dash but still feels fairly cool but not out the vents fully. Is this a blower fan issue??

I'd be greatful for a parts list. My girlfriends flyin out and I'd like her to pack a few parts. Thanks a bunch for lookin.
Old 05-03-2012, 06:49 PM
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Have her bring you a 703-1396 Napa coolant bottle cap for sure.
Get the hoses for how your Jeep is equipped as in aC etc.

The air only coming out defrost is a vacuum issue that you need to address. Are you LHD or RHD BTW?
Old 05-03-2012, 07:41 PM
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I'm not sure how to tell how my hoses are in accord w my ac. Coolant cap, check.
It's all American specs!so lhd. Jeep was brought over here a few years ago from a buddy from west v. Shell be bringin a Haynes manual as well, but how would I address the vac issuse? I'll run to the garage an snap a photo.
Old 05-03-2012, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Salden Hund
I'm not sure how to tell how my hoses are in accord w my ac. Coolant cap, check.
It's all American specs!so lhd. Jeep was brought over here a few years ago from a buddy from west v. Shell be bringin a Haynes manual as well, but how would I address the vac issuse? I'll run to the garage an snap a photo.
I just got done adding an inline radiator tee to my 90 since I was tried of having to be afraid that something was going to break once it got past 210 while towing or moving slowly... So far it's worked amazing and I haven't seen my jeep puke coolant everywhere other than when I hadn't tightened a hose down all the way. But that was a human error.

And if you're just planning on getting an oem replacement bottle like I did.. Don't. I got one from morris 4x4 and after towing 2 dirtbikes up a hill, the bottle cracked and started squirting coolant everywhere. I went back and compared the stock bottle with the replacment bottle. And the stock bottles plastic was more than 2x as thick!!!!!!! If I kept the closed system I'd go down to the junkyard and just grab a couple bottles just in case the stock thick one were to crack.
Old 05-03-2012, 08:01 PM
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So the notion is to swap for an open system? how much does a conversion cost? and what parts would I need? finding parts is limited to online ordrs only, or having someone bring them over. I'm in the middle east.

But as far as just keeping her running for an A to B for the time being...?
Old 05-03-2012, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Salden Hund
So the notion is to swap for an open system? how much does a conversion cost? and what parts would I need? finding parts is limited to online ordrs only, or having someone bring them over. I'm in the middle east.

But as far as just keeping her running for an A to B for the time being...?

I ordered this http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/63745/10002/-1 and then got a 16 psi cap. I had to work to get this tee in since were I put it in seemed to be smaller than 1.25" but I just heated the hose up with a blow dryer got a little wd-40 on the edge and it slid right on. Not too hard. Another route you could do to convert to an open system is purchase a whole new radiator with the cap built into the rad. But that's a little more pricey and I just recently had my radiator boiled before I joined the forum.
I could post pictures and give a list of all the parts I used tomorrow if you'd like.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cherokeelaredo'90
I ordered this http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/63745/10002/-1 and then got a 16 psi cap. I had to work to get this tee in since were I put it in seemed to be smaller than 1.25" but I just heated the hose up with a blow dryer got a little wd-40 on the edge and it slid right on. Not too hard. Another route you could do to convert to an open system is purchase a whole new radiator with the cap built into the rad. But that's a little more pricey and I just recently had my radiator boiled before I joined the forum.
I could post pictures and give a list of all the parts I used tomorrow if you'd like.
Good idea and reasonably priced. OP, what kind of shape is your radiator in? If old or marginal, now may be the time to replace it and convert to open system too..
Old 05-03-2012, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Salden Hund
But as far as just keeping her running for an A to B for the time being...?
Oh and going from point A to B I've geard of people taking the two hoses that connect to the bottle and putting them into each other.. I wouldn't really want to try this because once the pressure and heat builds up it seems like the hoses would be ripped apart and thus not really making you go much farther at all..
Old 05-03-2012, 09:03 PM
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How soon til your replacement bottle gets there?
Old 05-04-2012, 05:00 AM
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10 days. Should I just concentrate on converting? The Rad is probably original, but i've not noticed any issues. Whats the point of the petcock? Pressure overflow? Is there a valid post here about converting a 90's closed to open?
Old 05-04-2012, 06:06 AM
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Ok, I did some research and the petcock unit will be used. I'm not 100% sure what hoses to connect to what, could someone please send me a dummy's diagram? The lady's also bringing a Haynes so that will help. I do have 5/8" or 15.9 mm heater hose and plenty of it. What other supplies should I have her bring?

And while on the subject of open or closed, when I get to Cali in Sept. I plan on replacing all cooling components, fan c., pump etc. but just curious how much more benificial a open system like on newer models is than just this petcock solution? or should I just keep this as is?
Old 05-04-2012, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Salden Hund
Ok, I did some research and the petcock unit will be used. I'm not 100% sure what hoses to connect to what, could someone please send me a dummy's diagram? The lady's also bringing a Haynes so that will help. I do have 5/8" or 15.9 mm heater hose and plenty of it. What other supplies should I have her bring?

And while on the subject of open or closed, when I get to Cali in Sept. I plan on replacing all cooling components, fan c., pump etc. but just curious how much more benificial a open system like on newer models is than just this petcock solution? or should I just keep this as is?
By petcock, you mean the metal sleeve with the radiator cap in it? It should work fine.
Old 05-05-2012, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Salden Hund
And while on the subject of open or closed, when I get to Cali in Sept. I plan on replacing all cooling components, fan c., pump etc. but just curious how much more benificial a open system like on newer models is than just this petcock solution? or should I just keep this as is?
In my personal opinion, if you are replacing the whole system just purchase a new radiator with the cap installed. I'm pretty sure a company sells one that is a 3 row and has the renix coolant temp bung built into it still.

Regarding the difference between open and closed. I'm not positive on everything that's different, but I do know in a closed system the pressure inside the system goes to that plastic coolant bottle and cap as well as heating the bottle and cap up. This is a fault since the bottle is plastic and expanding plastic doesn't do so well and this is why it cracks..
In an open system all the pressure goes a radiator cap, eliminating the weak plastic bottle and creating a more sturdy system in my opinion.
Old 05-09-2012, 10:15 PM
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I just got one of these for my 90 XJ ... beautiful piece of workmanship w/lifetime warranty;

Old 05-21-2012, 12:54 PM
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Finally ordered one. Had to use their 800 number. Although we only spoke briefly, it sounded like they knew their stuff.

Thanks!


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