That motor isn't worn out if all the plugs looked that good!!

Have you indexed your distributor?

 

Yes. And it helped. I know, all the plugs look like that! Should be running great with those pretty plugs & compression at 120-135! Lol!

 

Actually, it does run really smooth, starts right up and doesn't miss a beat. No complaints except for the lack of power.

 

Ever hook a vacuum gauge to it?

 

Have you checked for excessive slop in the timing chain? The engine itself sounds like it's pretty solid still, but at that mileage it should've had a new chain by now. If you don't want to tear it down to check;

Pop the dissy cap.

Put a ratchet or short breaker bar on the crank(easier with a buddy)

Move the crank back n forth.

See how far the crank turns before the rotor moves.

A little play is fine, but if you get 1/16+ turn from the crank before the rotor moves, then you're due for replacement. Wandering valve timing could explain the lack of midrange oomph.

 

I did a while ago, can't remember exact reading but I think it was kinda low. I'll check it again.

 

That's a good idea! Hadn't thought of that one. I'll check ASAP. Thanks:-)

 

I turn about 2000 @ 60.

Baddad...you do know the books and diagrams are wrong. #1 is at 5:00 as viewed from the side, 153624 clockwise. (sorry, that had to be at least mentioned!)

Pete, could it run that well with the dizy a tooth off?

 

I don't know.

 

http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...ts/vac/uum.htm

Vacuum gauge stuff^^up there.

 

Tag this thread for future reference

 

That makes it sound like it was a tooth off at some point.

 

I'll double check this to, but it looked like things were lined up properly when I indexed the distributor. I noticed the books were off to. Really leaning towards the timing chain, makes sense for what I'm dealing with.

 

Thanks! That'll be a hand guide when I check it.

 

Cruisers #13 seems a little extreme to me. Maybe I have yet another thing to learn there! The deal is, since the puter' advances the spark, but nothing in the dizzy moves, it's set with the rotor just ahead (a tad), of the electrode in the cap. (static, at TDC) This so when the ECU advances the spark timing the rotor is still close enough to the electrode for the spark to easily jump.

The two piece crank pulley can slip, moving the timing mark. That's always fun.

Once on a Dodge "K" car, I loosened the header pipe to manifold bolts so exhaust could leak there. Immediately I new I had a clogged CAT, since full power came back.

Just rambling