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1989 computer in 1987

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Old 01-03-2012, 06:50 PM
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Default 1989 computer in 1987

I have a 1987 cherokee and the computer (ECU) is bad, will an ECU from a 1989 fit into it and work the same? I know they are both bendix and have the same connectors, but is there any differences in programming or whatnot?

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Old 01-03-2012, 07:32 PM
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Yep, and it will run better, due to improved programming. Done it numerous times. Last 3 numbers should be 428 on the 89 ECU.
Old 01-03-2012, 07:34 PM
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Thankyou so much, I was just worried, I had plugged it in and it had a rough idle so I wanted to see what people had to say, just going to go back and replace my distributor cap and rotor button now
Old 01-03-2012, 07:36 PM
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Plugs, wires, cap and rotor all at once. Use good wires and cap and rotor with brass contacts, not aluminum.
Old 01-03-2012, 07:52 PM
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It goes from running good to running bad, been taking it round the block a few times, could it be bad fuel or clogged injectors? It has sat for around a month
Old 01-03-2012, 07:54 PM
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Do what is outlined in the following write-ups and eliminate grounds as an issue. You won't be sorry.
Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
 
 
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at
www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
 
Revised 11-28-2011
Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing
 
The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before.

Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, and the ECU travel the path through the C101.
The C101 is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time.
Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth.
If you have a small pick or dental tool tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter. Apply a true dielectric grease, not the stuff that came with your brake pads, to the connection and bolt it back together.
 
 
Revised 11-29-2011
Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing
 
 
The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future.
The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner.
Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Apply some dielectric grease to the contacts and bolt the coil back on to the ICU.
While you’re right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier. Apply dielectric grease to the connectors and plug them back in.
I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep.
 
Revised 11-29-2011

Old 01-03-2012, 08:38 PM
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i wasn't having a grounding issue before i had to trouble shoot to replace computer, i replaced ignition coil and crank position sensor, I'm thinkin one of my plug wires might not be connected all the way causing missing, or I somehow messed up the cps and its sending a mixed signal
Old 01-04-2012, 05:18 AM
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You don't KNOW you DON'T have a grounding issue until you refresh them. That is, unless you can see electricity and know it's flowing through the poorly and underengineered system that's 25 years old on your Jeep.
Old 01-04-2012, 07:49 AM
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LOL, yeah good point, I'll refresh those and get back to ya, thankyou for the advice
Old 09-24-2015, 11:26 PM
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Hey i have a 87 pioneer. To my knowledge the 88 was upgraded with Higher flowing fuel injectors. My question is...if i was to get the Higher flowing fuel injectors and the Computer from 88 would it work as a "plug n play" type of thing? Or do i need to spend $$$$ to have someone program it? Also would a newer computer work better?
Old 09-24-2015, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Kobywatson1
Hey i have a 87 pioneer. To my knowledge the 88 was upgraded with Higher flowing fuel injectors. My question is...if i was to get the Higher flowing fuel injectors and the Computer from 88 would it work as a "plug n play" type of thing? Or do i need to spend $$$$ to have someone program it? Also would a newer computer work better?
Injectors were the same. Just get an 89 or 90 computer. Plug and play.
Old 09-24-2015, 11:45 PM
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Ok cool! An 89 or 90 computer will work even with out all the engine upgrads?
Old 09-25-2015, 08:04 AM
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Yep. All what upgrades?
Old 09-25-2015, 09:56 PM
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I thought after Chrysler took over they added a bigger throttle body, higher flowing fuel injectors and cam profile. But they didnt badge on the "high out put" until 1991 along with a few more uprgrades or something like that.
Old 09-26-2015, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Kobywatson1
I thought after Chrysler took over they added a bigger throttle body, higher flowing fuel injectors and cam profile. But they didnt badge on the "high out put" until 1991 along with a few more uprgrades or something like that.
Not until 1991.

Here's the truth about the HO.

HO myth buster


Renix in 90 made 182 HP. HO in 91 made 190 HP. That's 8 HP difference.

HO only made more HP than Renix at higher RPMs and not a bit more torque. HO had 58 mm throttle body versus a 52 mm throttle body on a Renix and also had a better design header. See where I'm going with this?

The whole 8HP was not mostly from the head, but from the bigger TB and better exhaust manifold.

Put a 60mm TB from www.strokedjeep.com on your present head, eliminate the "crush" in your headpipe with proper re-routing, and go for it.

HO stands for Highly Overrated.
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