1989 Cherokee Engine HELP!!
11-13-2008, 10:00 AM
#1
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L HO "Straight Six"
1989 Cherokee Engine HELP!!
I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee, a little history on the vehicle, The Jeep was bought in November of 1988 from a local jeep dealership in Richmond, VA. The owner had the Jeep since the day it came out of the dealership lot. It is a one owner Jeep Cherokee. It is Black and is a Laredo with two doors and has the rear seat vent windows. The Jeep is loaded with options for the year it was built. It has an automatic transmission with comfort and power sterring selector rocker switch. The Jeep has 239,850 miles as of November 11, 2008. NOW, the real problem... My 89 Jeep cherokee has a problem with bettery drainage... I will put a new battery in the jeep on one day and try and go start it the next day and the jeep will not start. And by now, I am sick and tired of having to unhook and rehook up my battery terminal cables everytime I want to go somewhere and then when I get to my destination, just to make sure I dont get "stuck." SOO i am asking as a "NOOB" to the jeep ownership lifestyle.. I dont really know where I should tackle the subject of keeping and getting my Cherokee ready to drive and KNOW that it will not dye on me... SOO I ASK HELP MEE PLEASEE~!!!
11-13-2008, 11:16 AM
#2
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Year: 1992, 2- 1998 (All 3, 4 Doors)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L in all
You can either:
A) trace the electrical system until you find what it is exactly that is draining power.
or
B) add a master disconnect switch inside.
B will also act as an anti-theft device if you hide it good enuff and get that one with the removeable key, but your radio presets and trouble codes will disappear each time you switch it.
A) trace the electrical system until you find what it is exactly that is draining power.
or
B) add a master disconnect switch inside.
B will also act as an anti-theft device if you hide it good enuff and get that one with the removeable key, but your radio presets and trouble codes will disappear each time you switch it.
11-13-2008, 11:39 AM
#3
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Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0 I6
Just a thought but is your alternator still operating correctly? It is easy to pull and take it to autozone to check it out. FREE CHECK!!! It may be on its last leg.
11-13-2008, 12:47 PM
#4
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would first check the alt. If its not puting out enough power, you will actually be runing the computer off the battery. If that is good, then you have a drain somewhere.
11-13-2008, 03:59 PM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
if its not the alt. you havea long road ahead of you, heres a very basic but complete way of checking your system, i used it on my old ford
First make sure the top of the battery is clean before starting this. Battery acid on top of the battery can conduct. Allow plenty of time because this can take a while if it's not one of the main items.
You basicly install a Test light or Volt meter (DVM) in series with either battery lead. I prefer a DVM because they are more sensitive, but a test lite will work. The DVM will show voltage or the test light will be on as long as you have current flow (something on). You now have to start unplugging things till the light goes out or the volt meter goes to zero. Start with the fuse block, then the alternator, voltage regulator these are the easy ones. Make sure both doors are closed so the dome light is out. Next would be the engine sensors, coil, dist, started lead. I would next disconnect wires on the solenoid (battery side) and re-connect the battery one so you can continue the tests. The large wire besides the battery one feeds the fuse block. There is also a fuse like holder on the inner finer below the battery, check it to make sure it has not fallen apart due to age, mine was broken. Now the hard work if not found by now. You will need to start unplugging the harness connections that runs to the lights, found on the inner finder wells.
hopefully this hepls
First make sure the top of the battery is clean before starting this. Battery acid on top of the battery can conduct. Allow plenty of time because this can take a while if it's not one of the main items.
You basicly install a Test light or Volt meter (DVM) in series with either battery lead. I prefer a DVM because they are more sensitive, but a test lite will work. The DVM will show voltage or the test light will be on as long as you have current flow (something on). You now have to start unplugging things till the light goes out or the volt meter goes to zero. Start with the fuse block, then the alternator, voltage regulator these are the easy ones. Make sure both doors are closed so the dome light is out. Next would be the engine sensors, coil, dist, started lead. I would next disconnect wires on the solenoid (battery side) and re-connect the battery one so you can continue the tests. The large wire besides the battery one feeds the fuse block. There is also a fuse like holder on the inner finer below the battery, check it to make sure it has not fallen apart due to age, mine was broken. Now the hard work if not found by now. You will need to start unplugging the harness connections that runs to the lights, found on the inner finder wells.
hopefully this hepls
11-13-2008, 04:17 PM
#6
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
The above is actually the best way to find a short that seems to be what you have. Check the altenator output first and then if that is OK then start the process that was outlined above. Cleaning each connection as you go.
11-13-2008, 04:45 PM
#7
Do you hear banjos?
As silly as it may sound, make sure everything in the Jeep is off. If you're leaving a radio on, or a CB, or an interior light it will drain the battery. I know it sounds silly, but trust me it happens!!
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11-14-2008, 06:20 PM
#8
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If it has power seats in it put the seats where you want them .Up under the seat unplug the connector going to the seats .My buttons were bad about hanghing up but wouldnt move the seats .thus this was draining the battery in a matter of hours.
11-15-2008, 10:48 AM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
11-15-2008, 10:58 AM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
if its not the alt. you havea long road ahead of you, heres a very basic but complete way of checking your system, i used it on my old ford
First make sure the top of the battery is clean before starting this. Battery acid on top of the battery can conduct. Allow plenty of time because this can take a while if it's not one of the main items.
You basicly install a Test light or Volt meter (DVM) in series with either battery lead. I prefer a DVM because they are more sensitive, but a test lite will work. The DVM will show voltage or the test light will be on as long as you have current flow (something on). You now have to start unplugging things till the light goes out or the volt meter goes to zero. Start with the fuse block, then the alternator, voltage regulator these are the easy ones. Make sure both doors are closed so the dome light is out. Next would be the engine sensors, coil, dist, started lead. I would next disconnect wires on the solenoid (battery side) and re-connect the battery one so you can continue the tests. The large wire besides the battery one feeds the fuse block. There is also a fuse like holder on the inner finer below the battery, check it to make sure it has not fallen apart due to age, mine was broken. Now the hard work if not found by now. You will need to start unplugging the harness connections that runs to the lights, found on the inner finder wells.
hopefully this hepls
First make sure the top of the battery is clean before starting this. Battery acid on top of the battery can conduct. Allow plenty of time because this can take a while if it's not one of the main items.
You basicly install a Test light or Volt meter (DVM) in series with either battery lead. I prefer a DVM because they are more sensitive, but a test lite will work. The DVM will show voltage or the test light will be on as long as you have current flow (something on). You now have to start unplugging things till the light goes out or the volt meter goes to zero. Start with the fuse block, then the alternator, voltage regulator these are the easy ones. Make sure both doors are closed so the dome light is out. Next would be the engine sensors, coil, dist, started lead. I would next disconnect wires on the solenoid (battery side) and re-connect the battery one so you can continue the tests. The large wire besides the battery one feeds the fuse block. There is also a fuse like holder on the inner finer below the battery, check it to make sure it has not fallen apart due to age, mine was broken. Now the hard work if not found by now. You will need to start unplugging the harness connections that runs to the lights, found on the inner finder wells.
hopefully this hepls
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