kombi

ok so feb 15th i was driving to work the jeep shut off. would start then die

i replaced;

fuel pump
fuel filter
fuel lines
fuel pressue regulator

cleaned up all major grounds
ran new neg-body ground
replaced/cleaned all large power cables

cleaned and replaced most under hood plugs as well and any bad looking connection or wires.

replaced
crank position sensor.. about 5 times.. i still only get a reading of about .35-.4 VAC

new injector plugs

cleaned the major engine harness plug on the driver firewall

replaced Every relay i could find. all the fuses are good

new ignition switch


i am sure im missing some stuff here.. it drove great afther that.. took ot for a 10 mile drive in 100degree weather yesterday.. was great... went to work this morning.. died with in one mile and will only start then shut off..

i say shut off because its like i just turned the key off. its not sputtering.. it just turns off

about ready to just burn it

OleBlue

check your egr valve is functioning correctly. sounds like it is sticking open.

kombi

EGR is not hooked up

tried a spare coil its running now im sure it will die the second i try to take it to work :/

cruiser54

Check to see if the fuel pump ballast resistor connectors are loose or if the resistor is bad. You can just bypass it with no issues other than a slightly louder fuel pump.

cruiser54

Here:

kombi

I'm going to assume that its bypassed as I do not have a resistor there. There is a relay? It drove fine all weekend.. left for work and it died.. only thing that is different is I run my headlights and heater... bad alt? Starts up fine with lights on... cranks a few and sometimes has a high idle at start

cruiser54

A fuel pressure test is in order.

kombi

it doesnt die like its running out of fuel. it dies like you just shut the key off.. no sputtering.. it goes from driving fine good idle to nothing.

i just took it for a drive with every accessory on.. but lol i wasnt on my way to work so it wont die...


there is a silver box with a bunch of fusable links thats inline from the battery/box/alt

what is this? i found the connection there was slightly loose.. but clean

DFlintstone

Kombi, not sure if you happen to be use to carburetors, but with fuel injection, when the pump stops, there is NOTHING left....it quits pretty quick.

"there is a silver box with a bunch of fusable links thats inline from the battery/box/alt "

You might be referring to your starter relay, where all the fusible links fan out from. YES major deal there. I might fix the loose one...there is a sort of rough pic in the diagram in my signature, as well as link to a more complete diagram.

5 0f WHAT Cps? Yea, 3.5-4 is just under the wire....

67 GMC

Sounds electrical too me. I had something like this on my '87. Did you really, really, really clean the grounds by the dipstick and other grounds too? My XJ would start fine cold. When it warmed up, it would just die like you described. When it was running in the driveway, I did the wiggle test on all the wires under the hood. Take apart all connectors and spray with electrical contact cleaner. Rock the C101 connector, the wires near the dipstick, etc and see if it can die or run rough.

I think CPS issues can cause it to die as well (like a power off). I just replaced mine as the Jeep started to "shut off" when I put it in reverse. I think it was the slight movement of the transmission twisting that moved it just enougth that the CPS was too far from the flywheel. Seems good so far. Also had the CPS wire melt onto exhaust manifold. That makes it die too!

cruiser54

Good advice here^.

OP, get the loose connection taken care of first.

Then click on the pink link in my signature for instructions on how to perform the procedures 67 GMC is suggesting.

DFlintstone

As 67GMC suggests, there is no harm in seeing that something major is not loose! IT happens! Engine to trans bolts should be tight!

kombi

I keep checking wires plugs and grounds... caps is the 4th one now all new.. I have moved my block grounds to the valve cover and ran two 8gauge ground wires from the bolt with those grounds and from the original branded wire strap.. and kept the original neg batt to block cable.. but ran from the block to body. Body to batt etc... I am going to modify the cps closer to flywheel.. signal has only ever been ..4 ac

jdjonesdr

I had the same problem on my 1990 YJ a few years ago. I'd be driving along, and BAM, it would die in a heartbeat. Like something was cutting power to the coil.

I'd roll to a stop, hit the key, and it would usually start right up again. Other times, it would have to sit anywhere from 2-3 minutes to an hour before it would start. I always knew if it was going to start or not, because my jeep always started with just a touch of the key.

Some days it would do it 3-4 times within a mile or two, other times I'd go days without it happening. (Try to troubleshoot that!!)

I finally saw a post on another jeep board about the same problem, which turned out to be an ECU issue.

They even had a fix called the "Sutter Maneuver" or something like that, which involved bypassing the ECU by cutting two wires on the harness of the ECU, and connecting them together, which eliminated the ECU.

I did it, and went from being incredibly exasperated to surprisingly pleased from one minute to the next. The difference was like night and day.

Since I bought my 90' XJ and have been working on it and driving it around, it has done the same thing.... once.

I was stopped in traffic, and it just died. Hit the key, and it started again. It hasn't done it since.

If you can get your hands on another ECU, I would try swapping it out, to see if the problem goes away.

cruiser54

What the hell is the loose connection you posted about earlier? Did you fix it?