I dont know the exact name for the 1982 cherokee. Is it Wagoneer or something... Anyway hopefully you guys understand. Are these Dana 44 strong when compared to the D44 on the late 80's cherokee? I found a pair of them online for $100 each. Is that worth it, and how hard would it be to fab them in? Worth it or no..... I know the front axle has leaf springs but thats not impossible to switch. Anything else I should consider, thanks.

 

OK the FSJ waggy is a 6 lug bolt pattern. If it is a NON CAD axle it is worth 100 bucks. The rear axle almost always go for a 100 bucks. You will need to build/buy a front truss. Factor in that you will want to regear and add flat top knuckles. Good buy.. build them as money allows. Or tell me where they are... I will get them

 

so when you buy knuckles, you can buy them for just a "Dana 44" and they will work?

 

sounds like your talking about a cherokee cheif "fullsize"
no standard jeep cherokee (1984-2001) came with a dana 44 front axle..

 

Actually there was a D44 in the front of an XJ, only not in the US or Canada. There was a discussion about that very topic in this thread.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...cements-34210/

 

i'm totally gonna start looking over-seas for a D44 front hahahaha, i never knew that.. thats pretty sweet though

 

The front is a lot of work, but can be done, and the width of it works out very well for XJ's. As long as it does not have the vacuum disconnect (a big box attached to the pumpkin- you can't miss it) it is a good price. The only woe I have about mine is that it (and all the D44s out of those Jeeps) is a low pinion, which can present a few issues. First, it is a little weaker than the high pinion, as you are on the coast side of the gears. Secondly, it puts the front driveline at a bigger angle, and the higher you lift, the more of an issue it will be to make a CV shaft work. I ended up switching to a regular joint at the T-case to handle the angle. The strength thing is not as big of a deal - it is still stronger than the HPD30.

The rear axle may have an offset diff, which will add another variable to the geometry, but as long as it is clearing everything like exhaust, it should be OK. You will need to move the spring perches.

I only did a waggy front in mine, and my advice is this - make sure you point the pinion at the T-case before welding on your truss (assuming you are going to stick with coils and not convert the XJ to leafs). If you need to adjust the outer "C's" to keep the caster in check, so be it. That should help a bit with the drive shaft angle. That was really my only regret in the end of the project. I have improvised with it, but it would have been better to weld it further back to begin with.

 

in 5 years of searching for xj parts on internet classifields and forums i have found one for sale

he was asking $1000 and it sold for $1000 within a couple hours.

 

lol, well i'm gonna have to save some cash and i'll be the one buying that miracle sale inside of minutes hahaha

 

why the truss

and why the flat tops?

those arent neccessities.