b-dub

eh its like $10 might as well... since it seems like its my CTS or faulty wiring somewhere causing the issue.

Is there any other known issues that could cause this? I saw something about low refrigerant?

freegdr

jump low pressure switch on ac should kick fan on assumeing its getting juice.

b-dub

Now that's an entire different system lol

What am I jumping and I assume the same way connect both terminals to the battery?

freegdr

No just unplug switch and jump the connector to it self no battery involved no no no. paper clip works perfect just for a second or youll screw up stuff.

freegdr

Picture just for reference...

b-dub

Sweet will it shock me...

cruiser54

Bz-z-z-z-z-zt.

b-dub

nothing happened other than the engine idle dropped some like there was a load on it hit a/c and the fan didn't come on but honestly i dont think the fan did either I unhooked it with it running and the load vanished but didn't notice anything different from the compressor..

would a faulty ignition cause it? it did have random no-crank issues that was due to the ignition.. i jiggled the ignition and have had no starting issues at all.

also I pulled the tstat and did the boil test with no issues it came open quickly but I know it could still be sticking. a new tstat just went in. I actually have a new ignition but never put it in since I never had another issue.. I guess I can go ahead and put it in



oops.. just realized it'd probably help to test it with the coolant temp sensor plugged in.. I was in the process of changing it.. oh and I did the ohm test (idk if I did it right) but I set the ohm meter to 20k and tested both. the old one that was still in the housing was reading about 900 and the new one was reading 800 but the temp outside is pretty hot. I'm going ahead and putting the new one in since the cost of gas is about the same as a refund.

b-dub

shouldnt jumping the coolant temp switch make the fan kick on?

anyways here is what HAS been done

relay under the hood in that box replaced
jumped the fan to the battery (they came on)

jumped the low pressure switch to the a/c all that I noticed was a draw on the power and the idle dropped but I could not tell if the compressor kicked on I don't think it did

coolant temp sensor replaced
T-stat replaced

are there any other fuses or relays?

edit- ok after replacing tstat and coolant temp sensor I ran it up to temp again and temp went right above 210 and dropped then went back up I parked and no fan. I tried with and without a/c and still no fan I drove back home (this was all around 50mph just a few miles total it's in the low 90's today)

it stayed a little above 210 I parked and idled a couple a minutes with no change I shut it off and could here coolant pouring back into the over flow. traced the noise to the line running from the rad (the little line beside the cap)

I figure I have air in it now since I changed the tstat

freegdr

Did you ever do fan clutch ? pressure test rad cap? Jumping switch fan did not come on sounds like no juice to that circuit....

freegdr

Pick one issue and follow thru.

b-dub

Sitting idle for 30 minutes it never got over 200 degrees went up to around 210 jumped the fan and it cooled down all the same time the cluster gauge was at about 230. Checked inside the rad at 110 degrees

The guy I bought it from drove out to my house to check it over. I did pick up a mechanical clutch I'm about to head home with it.. I'm thinking my gauge is just screwer up plus... how the hell would I get hot to 250 ish degrees in just 2.5 miles

freegdr

No air flo that's how with a good workin clutch fan it should never get above 200 put it on then work on aux fan ,what about rad cap condition.

b-dub

This was it sitting idle for 30 minutes with jusy the mech fan and only got to 210

freegdr

Then you drive temp goes up because of not enough air being pulled thru radiator .Our radiators are very narrow air circulation is a must vechicle move ments not enough. Been here done this.