My first XJ build
#76
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO I6
Those are 12 point 13mm bolt heads. If you stripped em too badly to get them out with one of those, then maybe vise grips or some of those biting stripped bolt sockets?
#77
CF Veteran
you need a 12pt. If you can't get them loose with a vice-grip then maybe grind the heads off and replace the entire hub assembly or weld a nut off the cut bolt, impact the bolts out, replace bolts. Either way does not sound like fun.
#78
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Thanks for the replies, you guys are awesome! Go figure it was a 6pt I'm gonna try your ideas when I have a chance to work on it again. If I have to replace the entire hub all I would have to do is just grind the heads of the bolt and give it a few swings with a hammer? Im willing to spend the extra ~$130 or so to get new hubs from Morris 4x4 if I have to. It was on the list of things I was going to replace anyways.
#79
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Thanks for the replies, you guys are awesome! Go figure it was a 6pt I'm gonna try your ideas when I have a chance to work on it again. If I have to replace the entire hub all I would have to do is just grind the heads of the bolt and give it a few swings with a hammer? Im willing to spend the extra ~$130 or so to get new hubs from Morris 4x4 if I have to. It was on the list of things I was going to replace anyways.
#80
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Okay. I will try using the 12 point socket and maybe some strip sockets first. Now if I do have to replace the hub how can I tell if I have a cast or composite rotor??? Cant seem to find an answer to that one. I have 5115 Duralast rotors.
#82
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Year: 1994
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Alright and lastly do hubs usually come with new mounting screws or do you have to source those separately? In particular the Timken hubs.
#83
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I think they come with new, never replaced mine so I can't say. I know the pabst boys on youtube talk about the replacement bolts that are actually hex bolts that you can get at a hardware store. Look it up.
#85
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
No I didn't get them done. I have all the tools I need to get it done its just a pain lol. Is there a way to remove the steering knuckles without taking off the hub? It looks like I should be able to remove the castle nuts on the ball joints and the pound the steering knuckle down to get it off? Or maybe I'm looking at it wrong. Then I could just cut them off? On the plus side since I was already in there I replaced my pads and rotors.
#86
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You need to remove the axle and you can't press the joints out with the knuckle in the way. Are you still stock on the stripped bolt(s)?
#87
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Year: 1994
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As of now yeah. Haven't had a whole lot of time to mess with it. I realized the axle shaft woul have to be removed a little bit ago. Would cutting the old ball joints out be a bad idea then? If I did that I'm not sure how I'd get the rest of the joint out of the actual axle housing.
#89
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Year: 1994
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Yup thats what i'm going to do. Im going to get it regeared pretty soon here and I told them about that as well since the have to mess with it anyways. On a different note I just finished putting a Cobra 29 Night Watch CB radio in. Pretty cool!
I've got a 4' Firestik antenna that should arrive tomorrow and a new rear wiper arm today.
I've got a 4' Firestik antenna that should arrive tomorrow and a new rear wiper arm today.
#90
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Replaced my fuel filter this morning. I figured that maybe the filter was clogged and thats what was causing the Jeep to not want to start. So far it seems it may have done the trick but I havent really had a chance to see for sure. Regardless, even if that isn't the issue $15 for a new fuel filter that may never have been swapped out isn't a big deal.