Hop

I replaced all of my engine cooling components a year ago, starting with a 3 core all metal radiator. I just used a standard water pump though (the old one was toast) and I wonder if I should have gone with something better.

With the air on (when the blower works mind you) at about 110 degrees ambient outside temperature, my temp gauge goes about a quarter of a tick above 210. It doesn't go higher, but anything past that middle mark makes me nervous.

Before my water pump went out, my Jeep NEVER got above 210. And with this 3-core radiator I bought, recommended by a few of my Jeep owner friends, I don't think that's the issue. They all think it is the water pump being cheap.

So I want to replace it again with something beefier, especially since I plan on pulling my small trout boat this summer and having my air working consistently. Could someone recommend something for me?

I'm not doing anything 4x4 hard right now. Waiting until I lift her a little and replacing the bushings and other suspension components.

As far as the in-line 6, she still purrs like a kitten, starts right up, and gets the same mileage she got when she was brand new. Of course, after a water pump upgrade, if the issue continues, I'll have to dig deeper. One step at a time.

And I thank you all for your time!

Hop

Illuminator

I've heard of using a flow cooler water pump, I haven't tried um though.

wjnfirearms

I don't believe you are really having a problem at all. When you put on the a/c, the engine works a bit harder so getting a touch warmer is not that unexpected. I've seen our XJs do that. My '98 does that on really hot days with the a/c on especially in traffic.

Have you replaced the thermostat? Also, you might go with adding Water Wetter to the coolant. The stuff does work.

trans_am7935

i would recommend going with a 180 t-stat. it is the best cooling mod i ever made. also if you still have a clutch fan, pick up a heavy duty cooling clutch fan off a 98 grand cherokee. works wonders!

413maxwedge

You can use the 180 degree t-stat, but I bought a hi flow water pump from hensco.com and a high flow t-stat neck and it does cool better than a standerd waterpump but its your choice, just remember like stated above your making your cooling system work harder when it 110 outside.(but it did help out in mine when running the a/c in traffic in the city.)

Hop

Thank you for the suggestions! I didn't know about any of them either so it is much appreciated.

Yeah, I knew about the engine working harder with the air on. I just don't remember the temp ever going past 210. In traffic today, there was actually a thin sliver of space between the 210 mark and the needle while sitting at a light. It went back down though as I was moving again.

I have a 180 stat in there already. During fall and spring, it never went above 180. Winter, well, it barely gets to the first tick at all. I will have to put a 210 in there during the winter to get some heat for the heater. hehehe

It is not overheating though. I just want my engine running cool, we all do. I want to give her all I can to make that happen.

Thanks again!

Hop

tjwalker

May want to verify your ACTUAL temperature with a point and shoot infrared thermometer pointed directly at the thermostat housing.

There can be some inaccuracy between the coolant temp sensor (on the thermostat housing) and the gauge.

Good data = good decisions. The above is the first thing I do when chasing a temp issue.

Don't want to be chasing a ghost here............

djb383

Take tj's advice, find a infrared point-n-shoot. With a 180, I would think the gauge would be pointing to the mark before 210 (182.5) during the winter mos.