Hello everyone, I just picked up a used RHD Jeep Cherokee from 1996 with 115k miles on it. Body is in mint condition aside from a small surface rust. Previous owners had the car sitting since 2022 and have been taking it to their mechanic for years and the last paperwork it had its chassis lubed up. Mechanic stated it needed these items listed in 2022…

REAR END REBUILD4 SHOCKS

BOTH FRONT HUBS

FRONT UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS BOTH SIDES

LF OUTER TIE ROD SHAFT

LF CV SHAFT U JOINT OR FULL SHAFT FRONT DRIVE SHAFT U-JOINT

LF WINDOW REGULATOR

ALIGNMENT

the Cherokee starts up immedietly and has no weird sounds on idle, the issues I have come across are

transfer case gasket is coming off

Old Leaks everywhere but all fluid levels are at max full and nothing is wet since 2022

when shifting from drive to reverse you can hear a loud clunk and feel the jeep “jerk”
Headlights and dash lights do not come on but all turn signals work, cabin lights work, high beams work

engine seems to be going almost danger zone but just below when having the ac on and running

when driving the vehicle you can hear a rattle sound which I was told was the u joint thag needed to be replaced

all bushings are worn

when putting the vehicle in 4x4 a light does not illuminate but the parking brake light comes on

Im new to jeeps as this will be my first one and would love to get all the help I can get especially for a vehicle that’s been sitting for 2 years.
I've been thinking of getting some fuel additives and doing a full flush of everything. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

In my experience, most XJ (or any older vehicle needs front end attention), but dont rush in..have a look yourself, there are ways of checking those parts are really bad , or not so much

Any slop when car is of ground and wheel levered hard with crowbar will be indicative

same for U -joints

I would expect to replace some bushes..inspect them

Download the 1996 Factory Service Manual here...you will thank me later

96 Jeep Cherokee SM with Supplement.pdf - Google Drive

here is a link to Parts Manual..invaluable to RHD

1994-1996-JEEP-PARTS-CATALOG.pdf - Google Drive

Look up how to adjust the kickdown cable for gear change

You will have to get test light and or multimeter out to sort headlights and inside lights, pretty sure inside lights are fused

Check every fuse with a test light both sides, especially the small under DS right knee, use a light and mirror

Do you have a 242 or 231 transfer case . its on a tag

It is entirely likely someone has bodged up some wiring. Common on an XJ, they are not the best things to work on auto electrically, but you are going to have to get your big boys pants on

I am RHD (in Australia). Rock Auto has many RHD drive parts

 

Congrats on the purchase and the neverending customizing. I would take care of the safety and driveability issues first. Gaskets and leaks typically do not require immediate attention. But before jumping in decide what your plans are for the XJ. Are you looking at a big, small, no lift? You do not want to buy parts twice so if your front end is shot you should decide which way you want to go. I have seen it on numerous project cars where people dump money into getting them right on the road, only to tear it all out 6 months later because they want to go aftermarket. So unless you have money and time burning a hole in your pocket, set out a plan.

You have a list from 2 years ago to get you started. Look over it again, because sitting can cause more issues. Decide what direction you want to go, then make a list of priorities to get it on the road and in the direction you want to go. Good luck and enjoy!

 

Can't really add much to what's already been said, except what you do first might be decided by what's needed to get through inspection.

Axle shafts can be expensive, whereas U-joints needn't be (except here in the UK where the cost of reman. shafts means replacing the U-joint's not worth all the effort).

Can't see anything you need is RHD specific, although it seems that might not be such a problem anyway.

Wouldn't worry about indicator lights not coming on in 4WD - in my experience, you're lucky if one works.

Checking the fuses inside is a real PITA on a right hooker because the pedals are where your head needs to be & the damn door open buzzer is uncomfortably close to your ear. As for using a light & mirror, beats me where "awg" finds room for them - but then his approach is always more professional than mine; same with fault-finding lights that don't work. XJ electrics are not difficult - but they can be infuriating: patience & perseverance will see you through.

Good luck.

 

The door lock buzzer should be disabled !

To inspect inside fuses, lay down a bright LED light on the floor with your makeup mirror beside it.

This will illuminate the area and allow you to look up and touch both ends of each fuse with a test light

You can do it best, with door fully open, outside on ground, on knees

Not inspecting every fuse that way is a mistake, even though its tricky, as a mirror makes everything in reverse

'96 have a wacky fuse arrangement that does not always correspond with the FSM

 

Not sure that's a peculiarly '96 thing (I have a '98 & '99 as well) but, for the un-initiated, that's a useful tip

 

JEEP (Just Empty Every Pocket)!! Welcome to our world!

I look forward to your future posts as your XJ transforms. Keep us posted with progress. We're here to help.

 

The door lock buzzer is triggered by a wire leading to one terminal of the buzzer, the headlights another etc

The entire buzzer relay can be entirely disabled (most have failed anyway, like all of mine mine)

I only want my headlight buzzer back

each terminal is served by a wire color which is identified in the FSM

When I had a look at the situation, it appeared the wire just needs to be snipped

I need to ID the headlight wire and run it to a separate buzzer (someone else did this)

 

Oh yes please

if only (unfortunately, all of mine work)

I have done that, many years ago; as I remember it was a 50p surplus shop buzzer strung between the headlight terminal of the light switch & the courtesy light switch in the driver's A-pillar - although in an XJ a separate switch mightn'd be a bad idea.

A couple of years back I had a problem with the interior lights not coming on when the door was opened & it was only after I'd changed the switch (at least once) that I realised that couldn't be the problem 'cos the buzzer sounded. Eventually found a wire pulled out of a connector behind the plastic trim under the door. Perhaps now I could've disconnected the buzzer while re-instating the lights.

With apologies to OP, really didn't mean to hijack this thread.

 

Your headlight buzzer idea is a winner. I will do this

afaic, that is the only buzzer you want on an XJ,,and you need it, as I have got a flat battery several times that way

I am pretty sure the buzzer module can be pulled out of its socket like an 8 pin relay..mine being silent, its hard to find!

You could either try what I said or pull the buzzer, and enact your own suggestion

I hate door buzzers

I really hate proximity buzzers, recently went off road in alte model Audi SUV, and the damm thing went berserk, thought every tree was a human, the owner did not know how or if it could be over -ridden, also guided a few people in tight car parks, they were having trouble get out, saying "my buzzer is going off" I say, ignore the buzzer, watch my hands, they never could of got out

Not a thread diversion as the owner of this '96 will worship our words in the future

 

I'm flattered that my idea meets with your approval. (have to say it was easier on the British cars I did it on because of British Standard wiring - it didn't matter what make or age the vehicle was, it was the blue wire you wanted)

With you all the way on proximity buzzers, they start going berserk at about 6 feet when you only really need them for the last 6" so, if you're parallel parking in a tight space, when you really need to concentrate, you can barely hear yourself think.

 

I also want to know that.

 

Welcome to RHD ownership!
+1 on RockAuto.
Enjoy the easy access to the alternator and belt tensioning. Hope the AC Compressor doesn't give you any grief - and maybe check the power steering pump doesn't drip into it....
Have fun!

 

RA's catalogue is an excellent reference book - but I gave up trusting them to send the right parts, complete &/or undamaged years ago. Also, in the UK, there's no need as just about everything's available on eBay.