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I could use a new shift **** in the white one (like the one you posted) but it doesnt like going over 80. Nothing fast about that haha. The sliver one (auto trans) likes to cruise. No shift **** for it sadly.
Worked on front and rear shock replacement. After breaking the heads off both upper mount bolts for one rear shock the other day I found a set of flag nuts from Rough Country. This is the best solution I have found to resolve the problem of bolts broken in the inaccessible nuts that are welded inside the subframe. I test fitted the flag nut assembly and it looks like it will work beautifully. It was a simple task to knock out the existing nuts with an air hammer. I used a 3/8” taper air hammer punch, which was a good size for this application. If you are careful this size does not damage the surrounding sheet metal. The flag nut assembly makes it easy to align nuts with the subframe holes and the tab allows the nut plate to be positioned easily. This eliminates significant time that would be spent drilling out broken bolts or trying to position nuts or bolts up inside the subframe and get a wrench on them where there is very little clearance.
Of course I found those after I busted a couple of mine on the passenger side and had already fished the bolts through with mechanics wire. My way was cheaper but I would have spent the $20 on those in a heartbeat.
I mounted front splash guards because I'm tired of the rocks and mud being thrown up my doors. I'm not that fond of the look, but they're sure effective at protecting the rockers, doors and the front of the floor pans.
I scored some of the factory ones awhile back because I was not fond of the way the aftermarket ones looked to. Really don't have a decent shot of them on the Jeep for you. But I like the look. The fronts have been ditched since the factory running board install. The running boards were in near perfect shape except that they were green. I had the bright idea to have them Line-X'ed to change the color. Also had them do the rear splash guards that still get used.
I got a new buffer and wax. Decided to put it to use. Works pretty good!
Looks great. I have been toying with the idea of getting a buffer. In April and October my '00 gets a good detailing. In and out. Well as good as I can do. What kind of buffer did you buy and what do you use for wax?
I scored some of the factory ones awhile back because I was not fond of the way the aftermarket ones looked to. Really don't have a decent shot of them on the Jeep for you. But I like the look. The fronts have been ditched since the factory running board install. The running boards were in near perfect shape except that they were green. I had the bright idea to have them Line-X'ed to change the color. Also had them do the rear splash guards that still get used.
Honestly, I like mine better than the factory ones but I don't really like either of them much. I don't really need them in the rear--the long plastic bumper end caps do a good enough job, and the rear tires don't protrude past the flares.
Last edited by Tbone289; Feb 27, 2018 at 09:37 AM.
I could use a new shift **** in the white one (like the one you posted) but it doesnt like going over 80. Nothing fast about that haha. The sliver one (auto trans) likes to cruise. No shift **** for it sadly.
What do you mean no shift **** in the auto?! I have a skull shifter in my Cherokee and Comanche.
Looks great. I have been toying with the idea of getting a buffer. In April and October my '00 gets a good detailing. In and out. Well as good as I can do. What kind of buffer did you buy and what do you use for wax?
I just got a cheap one from Autozone. It was like $35. Wax of choice this time was from Meguires. It was something like a mild cut with polish in one. Worked pretty good for all my scratches and it was nice and shiny when done. I can get you a part # when I get home.
Buffer - Pro Elite GW2001
Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
What do you mean no shift **** in the auto?! I have a skull shifter in my Cherokee and Comanche.
Did you have to get rid of the release/lock button on the XJ? Thats what I dont want to do.
Did you have to get rid of the release/lock button on the XJ? Thats what I dont want to do.
Nope, when you pull off the t handle there are 2 groves in the sides of the shaft, I made a guide pin and the skull slides up and down so you push down on the skull to shift it, you could also hard mount the skull and drill a hole in the top and use a .223 or 5.56 casing in the top to depress the button. Tons of options of how to do it. Obviously you can use a pool ball, grenade, resin mold a custom ****, weld something together or whatever you might possibly want, but I used a skull because it was cheap and easy to find. I have the spider gears from the Jetta diff that blew up and I've been meaning to get my brother in law to tig them together and make a cool heavy custom shift ****.
Nope, when you pull off the t handle there are 2 groves in the sides of the shaft, I made a guide pin and the skull slides up and down so you push down on the skull to shift it, you could also hard mount the skull and drill a hole in the top and use a .223 or 5.56 casing in the top to depress the button. Tons of options of how to do it. Obviously you can use a pool ball, grenade, resin mold a custom ****, weld something together or whatever you might possibly want, but I used a skull because it was cheap and easy to find. I have the spider gears from the Jetta diff that blew up and I've been meaning to get my brother in law to tig them together and make a cool heavy custom shift ****.
Good to know. I will have to look into something then. Thanks!
I just got a cheap one from Autozone. It was like $35. Wax of choice this time was from Meguires. It was something like a mild cut with polish in one. Worked pretty good for all my scratches and it was nice and shiny when done. I can get you a part # when I get home.
Buffer - Pro Elite GW2001
So pretty much basic looking $35 buffer that everybody sell. Always wondered about those. You like it and for what I do that is good enough for me. Part number for the Mequires would be great. I just use Turtle Wax products. For everything. I guess they are OK. It is a Jeep. Not my '70 Chevelle SS LS6 454 with a M22 Muncie tranny that I own in my dreams. LOL.
So pretty much basic looking $35 buffer that everybody sell. Always wondered about those. You like it and for what I do that is good enough for me. Part number for the Mequires would be great. I just use Turtle Wax products. For everything. I guess they are OK. It is a Jeep. Not my '70 Chevelle SS LS6 454 with a M22 Muncie tranny that I own in my dreams. LOL.
I have always wondered about them too, thats part of the reason I got it. My Harbor Freight one finally took a dump after 10 years so I needed a new one. I like the standard style ones with adjustable speed but they make a mess and tend to be on the heavy side (especially after buffing for 2 hours). This one is super light, quiet and does not make a mess. It doesnt work quite as fast but there is no crazy mess to clean up when you are done. Its a trade off I guess. Ill get you a part number on the wax tonight. I have used Turtle wax before and had no issues with it. Wax is wax IMO. The stuff I got was cheap and had both cut and polish in it. That was everything I was after. Ill be lucky to buff the Jeep once a year anyways haha. I tested out a fender and a door on my white Jeep which had some very nice pin stripes going through them. It cleaned up pretty good with minimal work. You can still see some of the scratches but its 1000x better.
Bought my wife a Tahoe, commandeered her car, and removed the Jeep from DD duties.... time to get some projects done on it now!
Originally Posted by s346k
no, sir. it’s a base model jeep with the only power function being mirrors. i added a headlight harness, other than that it’s rock stock electrically. stock radio, 2 speaker setup etc. this was ac on full blast and bright lights on, at full operating temp. i didn’t see the need for anything more.
