When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dorman 929-301 vs Crown 4886186AA HD leaf springs for stock XJ?
Stock 1996 XJ Country 4x4 here. I have P235/75R15 BFG tires so they are slightly taller than stock. My factory leaf springs need replacing badly. I measured about 15.5" from the center of my wheel to the edge of the fender.
So I'm trying to decide between the Dorman 929-301 leaf springs with Dorman 722-024 shackles or the Crown 4886186AA leaf springs with maybe the Dorman 722-024 shackles or some other manufacturer's shackle? The Dormans come with bushings pressed in already. The Crowns don't come with bushings. I don't have access to a hydraulic press. If I got the Crowns, how would I get the bushings in? Or should I use the two piece polyurethane bushings that just go in from each side with a little grease?
I carry a load of tools and junk in the back, and sometimes people in the backseat. I need a good set of springs but I don't care to do any mods past the springs and shackles. I'd like to get the rear back up to between 18.5" to 19.5" inches, post settling, from center of wheel to the edge of the fender. I've read a few threads here with people trying to make a similar decision but not many outcome pics, especially after a while of use and settling.
Any advice on the Dorman vs the Crown leaf springs? And if the Crowns, what bushings to get and how to get them in there? And what shackles?
Either spring will fit your purposes. Some say the poly bushings can be noisy(squeaks) and ride harder than rubber. I used the Crown leaf springs with an ES poly bushing kit and A LOT of marine grade tube grease I bought at Walmart. I also went with IRO shackles which are greasable and adjust from 0-.75" lift. You'll also want to replace your u-bolts depending the model rear differential you have.
You might be able to push the bushings in using a large bench vise if you have one, or pay a local shop to press them in. They shouldn’t charge too much. The Crown HD springs should put you at 19”. I have them in my ‘96. That’s what I got out of em.
Bushing, Leaf Spring #52000503 2ea
Bushing, Leaf Spring #52000504 2ea
I also carry a certain amount of gear most of the time, my Crown springs settled in a bit so I added Iron Rock Offroad adjustable boomerang shackles. Adjustable for +.75” lift and 1.5” lift. I have them on .75”. Nice thing is they are greasable.
Last edited by ElMartillo; Feb 25, 2018 at 10:15 AM.
Just wanted to add that the ES poly bushings don't just drop into the Crown leaf spring eyes. They are tough to get started and tight once in. I used a flat piece of metal and 3lb sledge to drive them home.
My front suspension currently sits at about 18.5" from center of wheel to fender. I'm not really planning to do anything to it unless it looks way off after doing the rear leafs. I put Monroe SensaTrac shocks up there not too long ago.
Another question: I have the Chrysler 8.25 axle. If I can save my factory u-bolts and nuts, do I really need to replace them? Or is there not enough threads for the new springs by either manufacturer?
Last edited by snakeyez; Feb 26, 2018 at 09:43 AM.
You should never reuse axle u-bolts and nuts. The threads are distorted when they are torqued to spec, and that distortion won't allow for the proper torque when they are loosened and re-tightened.
I went with the Dorman's. Very happy with them. Did rear shocks and all bushings at the same time. Went with the Dorman shackles.
Make sure that you get new U-Bolts. I initially did not and regretted my mistake on a corner; thankfully slow and close to home.
I just planned to do the rear initially but that put a tilt on the car. Did not bother me until at night when my headlights only pointed about 10m out.
So two weeks later was replacing the front coils, shocks and all bushings on the sway bar. Now we are level again.
My advice is to do front and back in one hit.
Start PB Blasting all rear bolts from about 3 weeks out and buy a breaker bar. Heat is also your friend.
the threads sheared off on the rear outside bolt and the small head on the underside of the spring that seats into the hole on the top of the axle came out. nothing major. but happy it was slow and close to home. I had read all of the stuff about new u-bolts but stupidly thought that I would be fine re-using the 23 year old ones that had 113k miles on them. New ones came from Fat Bob's Garage are good solid bits of steel.