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For anyone interested, I did a lot of research on Treadwright before I decided to purchase. One of the reasons I went with them was that I liked the idea of another set of tires not sitting and rotting at a landfill for hundreds of years...
The picture of the Kuwaiti Tire Graveyard in the article is outdated... here's what it looks like now....
Kuwait Tire Graveyard - Google Maps satellite view 2017
Aside from that, Treadwright's remold process isn't your typical recap or retread tire. Recaps and retreads use a pre-cured tread that is bonded to the tire with an adhesive layer and then given a heat-treat to finalize the bond. This is still a viable tire and, contrary to what the internet wizard's say, there is a low failure rate that is not much higher than new tires. The failure rate increases with improper tire pressure, maintenance, and overloading.
Treadwright's process, however, is a remold process and, aside from the carcass, the process is similar to the manufacture of a brand new tire. The remold process uses an uncured rubber that's adhered to the detreaded and buffed carcass, then heat-cured in a mold that has the tread pattern in it. Very similar to the way a brand new tire is made.
I myself used to be skeptical about re-treads until I watched the manufacturing process and read reviews about Treadwright's customer service and the longevity of the tires.
Granted, I haven't had these a week yet, but so far I love 'em! They ride great, they balance perfect, they're not ridiculously loud, and they look great. We'll see how they do offroad, and down the road.
So I've already noticed that the new tires are a little close to the fenders. No worries at all on the street and I do have 4" bump stop extensions, but I'm still worried that the tires are going to make contact. Not too worried about the fenders so much as I don't want my brand new tires getting sliced up the first time I go out wheeling.
Messed around in paint a little bit just to see how much difference it would make if I trimmed up to that paint mark where the factory flares were...
As it sits now...
Rendering of fenders trimmed even more...
Looks like it'll work. I'm also going to tackle that pinch seem on the fenderwell to make sure that doesn't sabotage me either.
Last edited by Basslicks; Jul 19, 2017 at 04:06 AM.
Reason: Fender well vs fenderwell
I've been contemplating the exact same thing...You still have your fender well liners? Kinda want to keep mine for anti-salt/rusting purposes...
Yikes it must be pick on basslicks week
Yes, we pick on the ones we like. If you not getting picked on, something's wrong. LOL
And if you ditch the fender well liners, use a pool noodle and shove it back in the gap by the door. Then you can spray the well with undercoat, or bed liner.
I bought a can of duplicolor professionally undercoat at advanced auto for under 10 bucks. I'm using it on my rear fenders. Particularly, Im using it to spray over the notched fender pieces after I hammer them into the fender well.
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And if you ditch the fender well liners, use a pool noodle and shove it back in the gap by the door. Then you can spray the well with undercoat, or bed liner.
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I used POR on one side of my rear cut and fold and POR + 3m undercoat on the other side as a test...might not have enough patience to wait all winter to see the results in spring...lol
I used POR on one side of my rear cut and fold and POR + 3m undercoat on the other side as a test...might not have enough patience to wait all winter to see the results in spring...lol
Yea and in Michigan, you don't get a second chance. LOL.
Glad it's free. I had one when I first got mine. Joints didn't last and they were proprietary. Unless they've been redesigned. Free is good though!
Joints are available at Morris 4x4. Just replaced all 4 on the one I have. Has some tie rod roll just like the other crossover steering setups. Easily fixed with either RuffStuff's or Rusty's cure spacers.
