Just got some 35's installed and the fronts are now rubbing at the bottom of the fender (by the door) at about 80% of steering lock (not even all the way turned. I had previously trimmed enough for 33's but apparently 35's with only 4.5" of lift is going to take some more cutting

I highlighted it in red in the picture below, probably 1-2" of cutting and i should clear just fine. The only problem is finding Moss Green fenders is really difficult (my experience) and I want to install either Napier V2 pocket flares, or Notch Customs X-Max flares and don't want to cut too much. I am wondering if my front-axle is as far forward as it should be? I had an alignment done very recently and they said everything aligned just fine, and it tracks straight and true down the highway.




The body fender bolt area is all bent up, probably from hitting something at some point, can I safely trim just past the first bolt in this picture (trimming it off)? If needed I could replace it with a rivet or have it welded but I just want to be sure before hacking anything off




The rear actually would be just fine if I could install my extended bumpstops. I broke one bolt off each of the factory ones that are rotted away so it wants to flex alll the way into the tire. The front is actually OK if I could trim away some of the fender some more.

If you look at this picture, could I go to the beginning of the plastic "door guard" that is at the rear end of the front fender (to the red-dot)?





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I am watching this video and he looks like has tons of clearance to turn full-lock on the front tire, and he makes no mention of cutting past that torx-bolt so I assume he did not?

 

I am thinking that my axles is shifted rearwards because of my short arms RE 4.5 lift kit, The Jeep in the video does as well, but has control arm drop brackets.

Anyways, I can fix all of these in a week or so when I am home, but for now - can I cut the front fenders any more?
I could also kind of care less about fender flares, definitely need bumpers and rock sliders first, so I don't really mind cutting a touch more away.

Is it a bad idea to drill a hole further back and use a bolt to secure the fender to the uniframe so I can cut a little more?

 

you can cut as much as you want and/or need.

i once had mine cut past that first fender bolt, and up past the body line. that bought me some time till i fixed my lift accordingly. then i just replaced the fenders and all is back to normal again. but i just can't remember if the new fender with the bolt is actually bolted to anything. i might have welded something back in to mount that fender bolt again.

 

Yea, I am going to have to. Might do the rears tomorrow too if I have enough time, I don't want to deal with rubbing or cutting up my shiny new tires.

Driving a crap ton this weekend, so going to just get er' done. I will be sure to post pics of the carnage tomorrow

 

Front coils straight down or angled with bump stop ?

 

Your tire isn't centered in the opening. I would focus on shifting the axle before getting out the grinder. My front axle is shifted much further forward at 5" of lift due to my CADs. Rides much smoother with them too.

Unless you can get your hands on a template for the flares you want. Then you could verify you don't cut too much.

 

i would definitely keep that in mind for the rears. but fenders are easy and cheap and don't look too much out of place when cut back, as long as the lines are smooth.

then if you want to regain some rigidness, you can bend up a piece of 1/4 inch roundstock and weld that in the fender opening, following your cut.

 

Just trim off the area that is making contact. I did this by removing the coil on one side to stuff the tire then cutting the wheel all the way then just removed material wherever the tire was contacting. I had to trim the fender where you marked in red on the first picture. I don't think I cut the first bolt out but instead just pounded it up and out of the way. Now my tire rubs on the upper coil bucket and battery tray areas at full flex.

 

They appear to be fairly straight, but definitely can see the axle is further back than it should be.

Yeah, CAD brackets are my next purchase I think. I think my lift is sagging from age, maybe new 4.5" leafs in the rear and a 1" coil spacer in the front would bring it back up a touch and keep it level (the coil spacer, since leaf springs tend to be a bit "underrated" as far as overall lift height)

Yeah, I don't mind cut fenders actually. I am going to cut + fold the rear to where most people do, and really the worst case you can still get some fender armor like Dirtbound or Hooligan which would cover any screw-ups.

Yup, just did that and all is well. I flexed it out a bit (sway bar still attached) and no rubbing as of now. Crazy what an extra 1" of clearance will do

BEFORE








AFTER






Poser flex shot on the front lawn (sway bars still attached, rear tire rubbing on the stock fender flares on the other side, so didn't go any further).
Neighbors tend to not like me for some reason