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I understand you guys are machinist by trade, so you tend to be very precise. BUT.... I think you are way overthinking this. The only precision measuring tools I used were a torque wrench for preload and a dial indicator for back lash. That and some paste to check mesh.
I understand you guys are machinist by trade, so you tend to be very precise. BUT.... I think you are way overthinking this. The only precision measuring tools I used were a torque wrench for preload and a dial indicator for back lash. That and some paste to check mesh.
Thats pretty much everything I used when I did mine. I had to go out and get a special TQ wrench for the preload part though. Needs to read something like 0-25 in. lbs. Cant be a normal TQ wrench, has to be one of the old school bar styles.
Thanks, man. I should be good on tools, may have to hit you up for some assistance. It's going to be a couple more weeks before I attack it, still gotta go get my rear disc conversion off my buddies D35 and give my bank account a few days to recover so I can get all of my brake hardware and all new u-joints. Still holding on to hope that I can pull a locker or LSD for the 8.25 out my *** somehow.
I'd just throw a lunch box in it later down the road. I'm rocking one in the rear. No carrier split on the 8.25.
Haha, case in point. I was wondering how I was going to figure out the axle center line, meanwhile never realizing that the bearing housing faces should be dead nuts. I have parallels and depth mics so setting the pinion will definitely not be an issue. Insert facepalm here.
Thanks for the pointers and I'll deff hit you up if I think of anything else.
No problem. I just used a straight edge diagonally across the bearing housing faces and measured from that point to the top of the pinion with a set of digital calipers. Hit the new pinion depth right on the money first try, id like to think it was all calculated skill, but sometimes id rather be lucky than good.
No problem. I just used a straight edge diagonally across the bearing housing faces and measured from that point to the top of the pinion with a set of digital calipers. Hit the new pinion depth right on the money first try, id like to think it was all calculated skill, but sometimes id rather be lucky than good.
Haha, you sound like me. It's luck until someone ask, then it's skill.
Welp fellas, I'am officially happier than a puppy with two peters!
Slap those babies in already. The 8.25 is pretty easy to re-gear, dont have to worry about backlash shims.
I still need to fix mine. The pattern is terrible from the guy who installed them. Spring break is going to be all jeep work. It'll be nice having another vehicle to drive so my jeep can be down.
I'm jealous of your fold down back seat. I have been searching the yard for a good gray set of seats in a WJ. I went back through your thread to see when you installed them. Looks like a fairly straight forward swap.
Thanks man. I love them, I keep a car seat in my rig for my boy and its nice not to have to take it out every time I need to lay the seat down plus I like the added safety of headrest in the back for both my kids. I was actually just looking for a replacement XJ seat to replace my leaning drivers seat when I stumbled across a great set of leather WJ seats. The install is not hard at all, just a little time consuming. The only thing I had to modify was the center bracket so the seats would fold individually. Other than that its all easy. I made backing plates out of 1/4" flat bar where the seats bolt through the sheet metal just to make it a little harder for the bolts to rip through in the case of an accident.
I can probably find another set for you for like $100, but don't know how bad shipping would be.
