Sucks that that's cheaper than re-gearing, doesn't it?

 

yes sir. I just use the jeep to help haul corn and provide beer cooler support on our feeding weekends . There is lots of steep hills and loose rocks. Great place to drive around. Maybe 20-25 mph max. Usually just below 5 mph.

 

leaning towards slip yolk eliminator/4.5 coil springs/new 4.5 leafs/brake lines front/Aussie limited slips front and back and just trim whatever part of the fender that's in the way. What am I missing?

 

If you don't have them yet:
Lower control arms, 4.5" shocks, rear brake line, track bar

 

ok nice. The 3 inch lift came with lower arms will they be good? And I did put a rear brake line from a 95 wrangler it's like 17" long. What do you think about the limited slip Aussie lockers front and rear. Seems to me that they would be the cheapest/best option.

 

This.

Hey, since you're here... he had a question about the trac bar. He's already got one for his 3" lift, wants to know if it will work with a 4.5". I think it would, but I'm at 3.5" so I can't tell him from experience.

 

With at least a ZJ steering upgrade, under a $100 and many times stronger than stock for using a larger tire.


My track bar for the 3" lift I had would not fit the 4 1/2" I now have and I upgraded to a Dbl. Shear one. I also used adj upper control arms to set the pinion angle.


I would not use lsd in mine most of all in the front at the least an auto locker.

 

Good suggestion

It should be okay, but it depends how much actual lift he ends up with. That's why I prefer adjustable parts

 

Same here.

 

1) They should be fine, but you may have to trim just a little bit more
2) I suspect that'll be fine. You can verify by flexing it after you lift.
3) That depends on your needs and the terrain you'll be on.

I thought the logical compromise between cost and usability would be limited slip in both axles. I found a set of built axles for a steal with Detroit TrueTrac LSD in both. It's great for mud and snow, but it doesn't usually help me much on rocks because the second tire doesn't get power until the first one spins. When one is pinned against a rock or has too much traction to spin it, it means I don't get power to my second tire.

When I eventually install full width axles, they'll have selectable lockers.

 

Not sure if this is an appropriate place but does anyone know how to get the right psi in the tires if they're not the stock size? Only have 235s but I want the correct rating. Something about chalk and a piece of paper?

Or should I just take the correct rating on the door and +/- a bit? Not exactly a huge difference from stock

 

I don't know about the piece of paper, but take a piece of chalk and draw a line across the tread surface, then drive it around for a few miles. If there's more chalk gone out of the middle than the sides, it's over-inflated. Gotta start out with high pressure in the tires though 'cause it's harder if there's not ENOUGH air in them.

 

235s are stock on most later model XJs. I believe the rating is 34psi

 

I thought the largest stock size on any XJ was 225. That being said, the pressure on the door says 33 PSI for the 215/75r15 size that it came with. Don't know that I'd go higher with a larger tire.

 

That's the one! Thanks!
Thanks, guys! I'm not sure, it was either 215 or 225 on mine. I'm recalling 215. I'd have to run out of work and check but I'm a desk employee and I just found a comfortable position in my chair...