I am a very new 2000 xj owner. I am pretty mechanically inclined but have little time on my hands but anyway here goes. Yesterday I took my xj to a mechanic that specializes in offroad vehicle repairs, upgrades, and service. I was going to let them do the work until i got the quote. They quoted the following as my issues:
New tie rod end for the pitman arm
New Trackbar (rubicon)
All new ball joints
Slip yolk is frozen?
Install Transfer case drop kit
New rear drive shaft Universal Joints

Now some of these parts are pretty straighforward but I need to know a few things because im going to attempt the work myself. I have a 3 inch skyjacker lift kit that was installed before I purchased the vehicle. I need to know what universal joints i would need and other parts i should replace and if I need to install a new drive shaft instead of just the joints. I need to know if the track bar I need is special (because of the lift) or if there is any certain brand I should use instead of OEM. I also need to know if i should install a new slip yolk or put in an eliminator. Also should i replace the whole tire rod and the other ends at the same time. Should i replace the drag link?

 

which transfer case do you have? If you have drive line vibrations then you would install a slip yoke eliminator. Depending on which transfer case you have determines which SYE to get. transfer case drop is not recommended as a long term fix, but can eliminate vibrations. you would not do a t-case drop and a SYE, you would do one or the other

If it has a 3" lift then you need to get a track bar for a 3" lift. OEM will not work without modification.

 

I have the NP231 Transfer case. This may be a dumb question but what components does a slip yolk eliminator eliminate? Just the slip yolk? Should I replace the whole tie rod while im at it or just the ends? Which other components should I replace with the U joints? Should I just buy a whole new shaft with the joints?

 

I'm no expert on SYE's and lifts, or anything else for that matter. Best bet is to ask in the modified section.

http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...6-XJ-ZJ-RE1807

If your XJ has a 3" lift on it already, and the shop is telling you that it needs a track bar, then my bet is who ever put the lift on just modified the existing OEM track bar.

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/xj...plained-75047/

 

Yes, the Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) eliminates the slip-yoke connection at the front of your rear driveshaft. Actually, the SYE replaces your transfer case rear output shaft with a shorter one. So then you need a slightly longer driveshaft to make up for the room. This longer driveshaft will be at a less extreme angle as compared to the stock setup, so less binding and vibration. I'm no expert, but that's basically it.

There's also a cheaper version, called a Hack and Tap. You cut the transfer case output shaft down (Hack), then Tap it and bolt on a shorter yoke. Then you can use an XJ front driveshaft. Search the forum. Lots of info.

 

I think the hack - n tap is for the np242. traditional SYE for the 231

 

A SYE essentially changes your driveline angle geometry which shouldn't be off more than a certain degree. I can't remember off-hand the degree specifications. Short wheel base vehicles such as the XJ, higher lifts without a SYE places additional wear and stress on the TC and differential and their gears and bearings.

Besides wear a SYE helps to prevent driveline vibration that sometimes occurs after a lift.

Some don't add a SYE or use a TC case drop, however overtime the additional stress is going to cause more wear, possibly requiring replacement of parts of the TC, driveline u-joints, and differential.

I have a lower lift from 1.5 to 2.5 (depending on the payload) and didn't install a SYE, but the rear differential required to be slightly adjusted to create a better driveline angle. (The OEM has an optional Upcountry off-road package with approx. ~1.5 inch lift)

Drivelines normally fluctuate and change with road conditions. I would expect if your off-road quite often would speed up wear if your angles (without SYE) aren't within or close to spec.

With a stock driveline that uses a single U-joint at each end of the driveshaft, the pinion angle MUST be parallel with the transfer case output, so each u-joint cancels the vibrations from the other. if the pinion angles aren't within a certain degree of parallel creates potential driveline vibration, plus additional stress is placed on anything connected to either end of the driveline.

Some people install a T-Case Drop and add shims to change the angle of the differential, but it's unlikely they're within spec. Even without vibration there will be additional wear, especially when going off road.

 

The best trackbar for the money is http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10215.html