So fender flares - I was to do the quarter panel cut and fold for the sake that it makes the rear look lest hefty. I need to find some flat fender flares that accommodate that. I see Napier makes ones for the 4 door but couldn't tell if the 2 doors had that option as well.

I plan on copying HS00XJ's bumper build with a few modifications: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/fi...-build-173670/

 

Sold my motorcycle so expects some serious advancements on the Cherokee project in the next few weeks once parts come in.

Going to redo my headliner next week, I want to do black or dark grey. I'm hesitant to do black because of the visors. Here is an example from "Indiana-XJ" on here:



Here are the headliners from eBay.

 

I stripped the fabric from my headliner and sprayed it with black bed liner. I think the light grey visors, overhead light housings and rear speaker covers provide a nice contrast. I'm going to cover my overhead console with the same light grey fabric when I install it. Any route you choose is an improvement over the sagging headliner.

Grats on the motorcycle sale and good luck with the improvements to the XJ.

 

Thanks all for the help. I think I'm gonna go with RE 3.5 Super Ride w/ mono's with new rear leafs.
Anything else I could need. I'm gonna wait to see about a SYE.

I picked RE because I haven't heard much good about Rusty's Customer Service.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspen...n=R%2fERE6025M

EDIT: Not sure after seeing a few Jeeps with this lift that I want all that height..
Thinking more along the lines of the IRO Premium Short Arm Kit
Follow up question - will I need brake lines for a 3 inch lift? The IRO kit instructions say just to relocate the stock brackets.

 

Okay so I am buying a lift today so I can put it in next week..

They are all about the same price but some have a couple more components here and there, Going to but the lift and then then assess whether or not brake lines or a SYE are required. But I included them for budgeting purposes I didn't included coil spring on the list because they all seemed comparable.

The notes on the sheet (bracketed numbers) are as follows:

• 1 -> 3.5" - more like 4-4.5"
• 2 -> Trackbar from RE is single shear for the 3.5-4.5" lifts.
• 3 & 4 -> I can upgrade to adjustable for $60 each pair, $120 total
• 5 -> don't get teh Rusty's SYE get a different on for cheaper.

I'm mostly torn between the RE 3.5" and the IRO 3". I would more seriously consider the IRO 4" long arm kit if my leaf-spring weren't broken and I was going to wheel it. Plus it's another $100 for adjustable long arms.

I am leaning towards the IRO" for the adjustable control arms and the fact that I get both for the front. The rear shackles are a bonus for ride comfort as well.

The RE 3.5 I looks up a few more pictures and changed my mind about the height, doesn't look bad at all. I am just curious if the price difference makes up for the lack of upper control arms, fixed lowers and no shackles.

 

IRO 3"
Pros:

• Adjustable Control Arms
• Adjustable Rear Shackles
• Double Shear Trackbar
• transfer case drop

Cons:

• no rear brakes lines
• Hydro shocks
• Shipping of almost $100 (I hate paying for shipping)
• Slightly more expensive

RE 3.5"
Pros:

• Rear brake lines
• monoshocks ($89 rebate when you buy the kit before August 31st)
• free shipping
• Slightly cheaper

Cons:

• no upper control arms
• fixed lower control arms
• not rear shackles
• More likely to need a SYE

 

Finally picked the 3" IRO lift with the full leaf pack and Bilstein shocks. I'll be picking it up from their place tomorrow. Also added their steering stabilizer. Bye bye motorcycle money.

 

Friendly guys at IRO. Can't wait to install.

That escalated quickly.

 

Got the rear axle off of the cherokee. Can't get the leaf springs off for the life of me. Any tips?

And of course I didn't get any pictures of the work done but the you can imagine what it looks like. Also need to order new J-Bolts and gas tank straps as mine were less than cooperative coming off. Anyone know the rockauto part link for that? NAPA used to sell it as a kit with j-bolts and straps but couldn't find that either.

Also took out the headliner and OHC to recover, might do the visors, but I'm not sure I have enough fabric (or talent) for that..



Also grabbed a few pieces to sand down and paint to stop the rust.


And lastly, mail came while I was gone (not pictured: LED taillight bulbs, rust converter and undercoat, brushes, and AX-15 OEM shifter ****):




Rotors, hubs, and pads.

Still waiting for my HID headlights to get un-lost in the mail - thanks FedEx.

 

Started a thread for OEM 2 door tech if anyone wants to contribute:
OEM 2 door tech

 

My HID headlights arrived today and were worth the wait. Seem high enough quality and are plug and play, excluding the outer LEDs.



Got all of the headliner glue off of the headliner and OHC, what a mess. Firm wire brush helps a lot.



Also found some J-Bolts at Ace Hardware for about $2 each. They are only 7" long so might be a chore to get it installed compared to the OEM that were a couple inches longer, I think. But each bolt is rated to 275lbs so they should do the trick.

 

Got some new 3/8th sockets from Grey Pneumatic, the racket sucks, but the sockets are pretty good. The racket jumps out of the direction you are trying to use it for if you put too much torque on it..


I'm doing a little preventative maintenance and replaced the hubs and rotors. The pads still looked good so I didn't replace them. But I have them if I need to.


I hope to pull the engine from the donor tonight as the engine bay is clean and all the rust prevention is taken care of. Then I'll replace some of the gaskets and toss it in. I can get it as plugged in and buttoned up while I wait for the floor pans to get welded in. Hope it is drivable by Tuesday. I need to get those leaf springs out so I can get the rear axle back in..

 

I should of asked you to pick me up some motor mounts from IRO and toss them in a flat rate envelop/box and save me some shipment fees haha

 

If you can wait I'll be back that direction in a month or two. Or I have some friends in the area too.

This project has been a proving ground for me that the average person can do an engine swap with the most rudimentary of tools and determination. Yes I had an engine hoist, but no tilt control, no transmission jack, no air tools, just a drill with a ****ty impact attachment and some sockets. Anyone ever has any questions I am more than willing to share details.

So I had planned on taking just the engine out but the transmission put up a fight. Things people don't tell you on the internet, the AX15 only has bell housing bolts holding it to the 4.0L. Where as the automatics bolt and you have to take out the access panel etc. The AX15's access panel does not slip off, it is one entire piece. Trust me, I took an extra hour trying to get the access panel of when I didn't need to.







Got them separated and changed the oil pan gasket and rear main seal while it was out.


Took a little while but I got the engine in on the Brown Dog motor mounts and supported the rear with a jack stand.

Tomorrow I plan to get the accessories/front clip/fenders in and cut and fold the rear quarter panels.

Then Monday and Tuesday finish up the lift and floor pans and get the transmission and driveshafts in.

 

Got most of the engine bay put back in but some has to come back out. I'm trying to keep the 99s wiring harness as original as possible. So I have to switch out the alternator and distributor because they have changed since 96. The intake manifold is also quite different. Only one electrical plug is different but the vacuum lines are very different.

Here is the 1996


Here is the 1999:


Any suggestions? I could swap the intakes but if I do that I'm gonna end up getting a new exhaust manifold because I have a small crack in the current one. Was just too lazy to do it now when I planned on doing it when I build my stroker.

Haven't pulled a distributor before. What do I need to know?

EDIT - after up a few videos it doesn't look crazy technical. And I may just be able to change the cap that has the plug attached.