b16gsr

following along. i have those tailights you posted and they are nice quality.

kylemason

With it being the firewall I doubt the hole is there already - but there maybe the flat cirlce that needs to be cut out - not sure yet.

kylemason

So I was wrong - there is a hole in the fire wall for the clutch to mount to! It had a cap and was glued in somehow but it's the same size and location as the hole in the parts jeep. All I have to do is drill two holes for the mounting bolts and mount the pedals and that will be done.




The PO had some wires drilled and routed through the cap, no clue what they were for..

88whitecomanche

Thanks! Good to know...
Eager to see what you do for the pedals....
Looks like I don't have to look away from autos when I look at 2 doors...

kylemason

The plan is to switch the brake/clutch bracket in for the brake bracket. Taking out the 99s brake mount tomorrow so I'll let you know. Probably won't install it until I get the floorpans repaired.

Deadline for getting it running and all that is August 1st. Should be well before that but you never know. Paint/3" lift/31" tires deadline is September 30th.

kylemason

So here are the differences I noticed, the clutch assembly has 6 mounting points on the firewall while the '99's brake pedal is just 4. Not a big deal, I'll just drill 2 more holes and weld in some studs. The issue comes with the top mounting points. One has 2 bolts near each other vertically, the other has two horizontally spaced out. I'lll end up needing to weld something together for a crossbar. But this it's terribly difficult of a conversion - until I need to do electrical, we will see how that goes.

1999 brake pedal:




1996 brake/clutch pedal:


Monday:

• Cut out driver's side floor pan
• Drill the holes for the brake/clutch assembly
• Drill the holes for the clutch reservoir
• Sand the driver's side rocker to assess rust extent
• Pull wiring harness from donor '96

kylemason

This is the 1999 brake assembly in the 1996 to show the 4 holes line up, I also just realized the 2 additional holes are the same that hold the clutch reservoir. so I only have to drill 2 holes.

Two birds, one stone.

kylemason

So I got most of my to do list done but came across some more things I will have to take care up before she is road worthy..

Needs rear leaf springs, so might as well do my 3" lift while I'm making repairs. Someone school me on lifts, I am on a budget but want the parts to last. I only want 31's as this will be a winter vehicle, not a trail rig. And I don't want to go so tall as to need a SYE. Any suggestions help!



The floor boards are coming along just need to check what the plate under the seat was for - the jack? See pictured below, that bead rolled plate welded to the floor pan, it has 3 studs coming from it.


Also found out the window regulators I got off of a trade bonus are not the right ones.. So they will be for sale if someone needs some - I'll post a picture tomorrow. And if anyone know someone getting rid of a 2 doors driver's side window regulator I would be interested.

kylemason

Still looking for some answers to my previous questions - Also anyone ever out factory wrangler running boards on a cherokee? There is a set on CL here for a two door and was interested in them. I understand it'd need some custom mounts but that's easy enough..

kylemason

If you had $2000 to spend on my Cherokee what would you purchase, selling my Yamaha R6 tomorrow if everything goes according to plan. Looking for a lift, tires, and fender flares.



Bye Bye Yamaha R6

unidentifiedbomb

If i had $2000 to spend on your vehicle I would get a Rusty's 3" full leaf pack lift, tires, all the materials needed to repair the rust and maintenance, and the supplies. Rest I would save and use on another day. RC is a cheap and crappy lift company with bad bushings, RE is better than Rusty's as far as trail rigs go but typically lift higher than advertised and will cause you to need an SYE, Rusty's is a nice middle between the two with great prices.

kylemason

Thanks for the quick response, I have been looking into Rusty's and IRO

• Rusty's 3" Advanced
• IRO Premium Short Arm

I also actually already have the floor pans and rockers for the whole vehicle from my previous XJ purchase, and just picked up some rust convertor and undercoat as this will be a winter DD.

kylemason

So my step-dad informed me he wasn't very happy with his current car's tires, he has an FJ Cruiser with LT265/75r16 he said I could have if I bought him new tires that were less aggressive.







The question is will these fit on my stock rims, or should I get steel rims for them?(reminder, this Jeep will get field, winter, and camping etc - not much trail use)




best picture I have..

May have answered my own question though: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/an...tock-xj-91241/

What about on on stock wrangler MOAB rims? the 17x7s. Found a set of those on CL for $150

unidentifiedbomb

You need 16" wheels to fit them. Your stock wheels are 15" so you need new wheels. Craigslist is usually good for used steelies for cheap or 16" stock Jeep wheels. YJ/TJ/XJ/ZJ wheels all share the same bolt pattern.
For the price Rusty's is better than IRO, just look at what is included between the two. At just 3"s of lift I would much rather have a full leaf pack over adjustable upper control arms.

kylemason

Thanks for the info, I'm not too bummed they don't fit. I plan on keeping the Canyons I saw some on another forum that looked great in flat black. I think I'll end up getting the Rusty's kit. What about the numerous sub options?



Next choice is Napier or Bushwacker flats? I think I like the Napier more because they don't have the faux tubing on the lip of the flare, but the Bushwacker are more level..

Napier v2


Bushwacker

Also a fan of Notch Customs, but they are a little overbearing for the size of tires I'll be running.

Notch Customs

Or maybe I'll get the headlights and taillights I've been looking at... so many choices.