Next, modify the vacuum disconnect on the d30.
Followed this write-up:
https://emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com/2011/03/08/renix-era-dana-30-vacuum-disconnect-mod/



On the passenger side of the axle, looking from the rear.




Remove the rock guard.




Take the cover/fork off; Some fluid may drip out; have something on hand.




Slide the ring over to lock the axles shafts together




Clean everything. Fork in the 'locked' position




See the E-clip?




Take them off, move the fork over, then reinstall. Be careful - the clip can fly!




Reinstall after moving the fork over




Pull the old gasket off and clean everything.






Reinstall the over. I think I just used RTV rather than finding a new gasket.

 

Tranny filter and pan gasket.
Kinda nasty inside, but had done a poor man's flush and needed to swap the filter. The gasket was leaking a little, too.
Broke one bolt, but fortunately it was one on a flange, not into the tranny, so I could access it from the other side. Just drilled it out and ran a tap through. Good to go.

That gasket/rtv was a bear to get off.




No chunks, just kind of dirty around the magnet.

 

Steering box.
I was hoping this would tighten up my steering, and it did, a bit, but I'm still kinda sloppy (replacing all suspension/steering bushings is on my list). It was also leaking a little. I don't remember the details of this one, but nothing looked too bad. Just swapped the seals and adjusted the bolt on top.


Getting the pitman arm off was not fun.













Those three bolts.




Impact wrench is a good thing.




Spacer bracket.
Disconnect the lines (couldn't get one off the box so I pulled the hose off the other end.




Flat side against the frame.




Pry the linkage out.




Nasty.




Even nastier




Couldn't get that fitting loose. Ended up bending the tube up and replaced it.
See here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/pow...g-tube-196625/




Apart she comes.




That bolt holds the bracket that secures the ball bearing recycler.




Guts are out.








Rebuild kit




Starting to clean things up








You don't use all the components, if I remember correctly.








That's the adjustment mechanism that you can tweak. You loosen the nut then turn the center portion.




Turning the center part moves the gear my thumb is on up or down, allowing tighter engagement of those teeth.










Bolt her back together.




Clean (ish)


Back together.




Replacement hard line on the right.

 

Fan clutch, crank front main seal, thermostat, timing gears and chain, water pump and radiator.
This turned into a nightmare.

 

Not cool.






Tasty.






Overall, not bad. Some slack int the chain and some wear on the gear teeth, but not horrible.




Crap from the end of the pulley puller.




Pull the oil slinger off. Open side faces out




There's a little plunger and a spring in the center of that bolt. Don't lose them.




Dimpled side faces out




The dimple sits on that little protrusion, when assembled.




Sockets needed




Use a screwdriver to keep the gear from turning as you break the bolt loose




Pry the gears out with a screwdriver.






meh.




Make sure nothing falls into the oil pan.




All cleaned up.




The pin goes in the hole.




Clean!






Bolt it in.




Clean the cover up.






Make it look good.






Install the oil slinger




And the plunger/spring.




Knock the old seal out.








Press in the new one.








Apply gasket dope per instructions




Make sure that black plastic chain guide is in place








Bolt it all up




Alternator bracket cleaned up.








Old fan clutch




New fan clutch












New harmonic balancer...note that this one doesn't have cracks in the rubber!






Torque specs




Water pump goes on

 

The original bolt holding on the harmonic balancer was too short to get started to push the new balancer on, so off to Lowes to buy a longer one, to get it started.






Then, you put some man into it and it snaps off. In the crank. Not cool

Check out that story here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bro...-crank-196702/







The new radiator was from a newer year donor vehicle and the tranny oil line fittings didn't match.




Let's buy a new one.


That brings us up to date.
On to the new stuff.

 

On to current work. For the longest time, I was operating with the mentality of keeping the Waggy original (after all, it's a fairly rare configuration, these days). As shown earlier, I tried to clean up the C101, but I'm more concerned with functionality and reliability these days, so it had to go. Followed Cruiser's Tip 27 advice (all his write-ups are here: http://cruiser54.com/)

On to the delete:


The culprit.




Take the screws out, disconnect the connector and remove the back covers. You need to be able to compare corresponding wires on either side of the connector and this gives you access to the front of the connector.






I had previously cleaned the connector, but you can see how long that lasted.




This is the back of the chassis side of the connector.




Loosely attache the connector back together so you can see the wire pairs. As you clip the wires, only do one wire on each side and verify by testing continuity on the clipped wires. Strip the wires, slide a piece of heat shrink on one side.




Solder the pair together.




Slide the heat shrink up and shrink it. 20 something more to go.
Go slow and make sure you are connecting the correct wire pairs.




The infamous ground connectors.




These three are on the engine side of the harness




These are the chassis side of the harness




Clip them from the harness and solder all six together. Be sure to put the heat shrink on first.








All done. Bundle it back up!

 

Cruiser's Tip 25 - Valve cover mod

I've always had an oily air filter. Things got better when I replaced the vacuum harnesses, but recently it's gotten worse.



Pull the snouts off. I've previously cleaned the cover, but this time, those flimsy gaskets didn't survive. Tossed 'em.




Clean everything off.




Measure 1 inch from the end of the snout and mark it




Do the same on the second one.




Go over to your home-made, treadmill powered (fully speed adjustable for metal and wood (and all free except the pillow blocks and pulleys!)) band saw and trim along the mark.








Come over to you drill press and place a 1/2" hole in the snout on the side facing the firewall.




Clean thoroughly to remove any metal shaving. Reinstall and put it back on. I reused my blue Felpro gasket.

 

Wow!!! Lots of work. Great stuff.

What oil are you using?

 

Cruiser's Tip #4 - ICU/Coil contact refresh



Disconnect the cable to the distributor




Vacuum out the crap, give the contacts a good brushing/cleaning and bend them back in so they make better contact.




Clean off the terminals on the coil.




Found some Ox-Gard at Lowes, I believe.




Cover the terminals and reinstall.




OEM Renix.

 

Either Pennzoil 10W30 High Mileage or the Valvoline version (conventional), can't remember. I only drive the heep about once a month and it's been awhile since I last changed it. What are you seeing?

EDIT: might be 10W40...

Also, I sent Cruiser this picture of my intake manifold, just as background to his question:

 

Try some Rotella T3 to clean it up internally. You can monitor the progress by shining a light into the oil filler hole.

 

While pulling things apart, I took a look at my motor mounts. Their time has come.



Didn't get a before picture of the driver's side, but basically, remove the air box to get more room (my power steering pump is removed in this picture). Loosen that front bolt holding the mount to the frame rail, then go underneath and remove the nut from the stud on the motor mount (both are 15mm). Place your jack underneath the oil pan with a 2x4 or the like to spread the load. Jack the motor up, just slightly to remove pressure from the cross bolt. 18mm for the main bolt.




On the passenger side, you have to remove the oil filter adapter so the main bolt will come out of the motor mount. I didn't need to remove the filter or drain the oil (they attach above the sump). There is a little oil that drips out, but not much ( an ounce or two).




Do the same thing as the driver's side to remove the mount. I had to use a second jack to twist the motor back into position.






Both mounts had separated into two pieces. Time for new ones.

 

That's for diesel engines - same weight as conventional (10w40)?

 

This post will be ongoing, as I haven't completed the work yet.

One of the main performance improving differences between the Renix and HO motors has to do with how the engine breathes. The intake manifolds for both motors have a 60mm opening, the Renix system has a 52mm throttle body, while the later HO motor opened that up to match the 60mm intake manifold.

There is no reason not to increase TB bore size for Renix motors (I'll get into the math and theory in a later post, if I have time - gotta put this Mech Eng degree to work!). Several options for this exist, including boring the existing TB (more technically difficult) or adapt an HO TB via adapter plate and TPS sensor modifications.

I will be boring my TB out, as my employer has financed a membership at Techshop (a wonderful, wonderful concept if you ask me) and I have access to the machinery I'll need.

In the mean time, Cruiser's Tip #31 - Throttle Body to MAP sensor hose upgrade.


That guy, right there, coming out of the TB. It connects to the MAP sensor on the firewall. It's imperative that the MAP sensor gets an accurate vacuum reading, so this can't leak.




I found all these components at O'reilly Auto Parts.




Tap that bottom hole. WD40 is an excellent cutting fluid for aluminum.




Make sure to clean all the cuttings out - not good to suck into the engine.




Teflon tape and put 'er in.






These are the boots you'll need and the packages they come in. 47431 and 47432. The right angle boot goes on the TB and the inline one goes to the MAP.




47418 is the correct sized tubing.