There is no rust on the passenger side floor just the drivers - luckily

 

Well I guess that's not terrible time to get the grinder out cut that cancer out and weld up a new pan

 

Finally got around to adding an inlet for PCV hose.
I did the PVC air box mod about 1-1/2 years ago.



I drilled a 3/4" hole and used a 1/2" barbed end to 3/4" threaded end fitting.
Simple and functional.

 

New gauges installed.



Mounted to the A-pillar.



Testing - Trans. temp. gauge is maxed out since I don't have the sensor installed yet.
I plan on installing dual sensors, 1 pre-cooler and 1 post-cooler with a ON-OFF-ON switch in the middle.
Allowing me to instantly switch between both sensors and monitor the temperatures.


I bought my gauges here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370597031604?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370597032655?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Installation coming soon - along with the replacement of the steering box

 

Ok so this time it wasn't a sh*tshow. Everything went surprisingly well, aside from the difficult time of getting the box bolts started.



Old box removed - compared to the replacement box



My new Iron Rock Offroad steering box spacer



Finally got it installed and it works awesome.
What a difference from the old box, I can't believe I drove around with the old one for as long as I did.
Plus this one doesn't have a seal leak.

 

What kind of differences did the new box make?

 

Tighter steering - a lot less play in the wheel

No more leaking seal

I'm going to be ordering "The Cure" from Ruff Stuff Specialties eventually to get rid of any remaining wheel play.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...Code=ruffstuff

 

Silicone sealed the case



So installation of the LED light bar began and ended rather quickly once I realized I had no more wire.
Oh well, I will get some more soon enough and then installation can continue.







So far I am happy with the light, but I wish the mounting bracket was a lower profile design.
It sticks up a bit too much and there isn't enough room to invert the light bar and mount it underneath the bumper.

 

Could you run it upside down on the other side of the bracket? That'd bring it down quite a bit, but wiring would be on the other side if that matters

 

I will mess with it this weekend to see if I can't figure something out.
Flipping the light the other way actually helps as far as wiring goes, since my relay box is mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay. Less wire to route.

 

It was a bit warm today, this is my temperature gauge before I even started it.
Phone showed it was 95 degrees with 96% humidity - felt closer to 108 degrees.



Time for Dat Jeep's yearly oil change.
Only put on 5800 miles since last June.
I used Mobil 1 5w30 Full Synthetic along with a high capacity Mobil1 oil filter.

6/10/15 Last oil change 181232 miles
6/11/16 Today's oil change 187032 miles

Guess I need to put more miles on Dat Jeep this year.

Next up new lower control arm bushings.

 

This switch is an ON-OFF-ON SPDT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400820392624?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITIt will allow me to toggle between my pre-cooler line and my post cooler line.





It's within reach while driving.

 

I found my missing roll of wiring and continued installation of my 20" LED light bar.
Used wiring loom and zip ties to secure the wiring along the bumper tubing and behind the front bumper brace.




Night testing

 

I'm noticing a slight knocking sound intermittently when accelerating from a stopped position.

I noticed slight movement in the lower control arm bushings and am in the process of replacing these.
Bolts are seized in the metal sleeves and need to be cut out.

I also noticed during the inspection that the front axle u-joints had some slight play as well.

I removed the driveshaft to verify that this was or wasn't the cause of my knocking sound. Test drove it and that seems to have gotten rid of the noise.

Just need to wait on new u-joints, hopefully get them before the weekend and get them installed and the axle reinstalled.
I went with Spicer 5153X Universal Joints ordered through RockAuto.com

For the time being it looks like I'll be drive a 2WD Jeep.



Loosened the transfer case end of the axle.
This is the end with the double cardigan joint, which I believe is where the noise is coming from.



Both the transfer case and the axle yokes are in excellent condition apart from being oil-caked.



Empty cavity left by the driveshaft.