"I'd also like to point out that the dash gauge for oil pressure is supremely inaccurate/imprecise as well (I don't value that factory dash gauge much more than a simple idiot light to be honest). Use of a mechanical oil pressure gauge is worlds better."


He hasn't mentioned the type of gauge he's using. I've got the OEM gauge with a MOPAR sending unit and the gauge shows the readings he's getting. 40 at idle had a bit over 60 cruising. My engine is stock with 150k miles and it had 98k when I got it. I don't believe I'm getting that kind of pressure. I run a NAPA 1459 and T6 with no additives.

 

Those statements about gauges and the factory pressure spec of a 4.0 were just meant to be informative and cover my bases for the purpose of clarifying the situation.

 

I agree with you 100% and didn't mean to imply any other way. My post was meant to infer that since we both are getting similar pressures I doubt he is getting the pressures he thinks he is because I don't believe I am. I didn't want to come right out and say I didn't believe him. Of course that's all immaterial if in fact he is running a mechanical gauge. I know with all the bucks he's probably got tied up I'd want to know for sure what pressures I was running. I've got everything I need to hook one up but am not able to right now but as soon as I can I will. My inquiring mind needs to know. LOL

 

You guys are a trip. I like running Lucas because I like running Lucas. I don't owe a explanation to anyone here or answer to. So if this thread gots your panties bunched by how I'm testing out oils and filters, move the ***** on.

I ended up leaving the Wix 51459 in after a couple other swaps. Yes I'm not naive enough to know that the stock gauge is not 100% accurate. More likely it is below the reading it's giving than above. I drained my money(oil) and added new money(10/40) + LUCAS. She liked this combination better and pressure on the stock gauge stabilized. Bumped up to high 50's at high rpm's. I'm going to drain this and try some 5/40 or straight 30w tomorrow. Thanks to the ones who are giving valuable input and positive feedback.

 

Hey slick,we could care less if you put Kayo syrup in your motor and no one is questioning your intelligence. BUT when it comes to people posting specs readers looking for such info deserve to know how they were obtained.


If you would have posted this early on it would have saved a lot of speculation on our part:
"...the stock gauge is not 100% accurate. More likely it is below the reading it's giving than above."

 

been running 10-30 rotella with a wix filter on just about every flat tappet rig I've ever owned. I worked at a shell garage for many of year, on the rare occasion an engine was opened up inside looked like new. Proof is in the pudding. I do use mobil-1 on roller valve train vehicles but your 4.0L is not one of them. anyone looking for the best oil advise listen to salad and read his posts on oil lots of good research and good info

 

When you posted this, I told myself I was done with you, and this thread. But I kept reading it for entertainment value alone. I wasn't going to comment here at all until after reading your other posts, then this:
We're a trip? You're the one dumping oil and filters in this thing like you change underwear, and for what? To base your assumption of "what your jeep likes" by (your own admission, I might add) an inaccurate cluster gauge reading?
The folks who have posted the most useful info here, you scoffed at. People who have done PROPER analysis. If you want to know how an oil is performing, stop putting additives in it. Put an oil and filter of your choice in there. Then (here's the kicker) drive it for a few thousand miles, take a sample, and send it out for analysis. Put your additive in with the same oil and filter combo. Drive it again for a few thousand miles. Drain and send off to the lab for analysis. Do each of these several times to get an average, so you don't skew the numbers. Do it for each type of oil AND filter combo. Cut open the filters after each change to see what the filter is actually doing. Put a calibrated mechanical gauge to measure your oil flow at the time you change the oil, and after you change the oil. Log all your results. Come back and show us the numbers. Until then you're just expelling Grade A bovine excrement.

But hey, it's your time and money.

And with that I'm out...good luck with your stroker. Hope it sees a trail or a street someday. Mine loves both.

 

About 2yrs ago I changed 3 vehicles over to T6 and Wix. One was a very sludged up 318 Durango so I did filter changes on it every 2000mi. At 8000mi I changed the oil and filter. Looking and feeling inside the valve cover there was big difference. I don't know what oil or filter he had been using (Walmart serviced) but I do know it was changed regularly.

 

So, let me get this straight.

You're trying out different lubricants to see what kind of pressure the stock gauge shows after a handful of running hours?

Is that assessment accurate?

 

Not at all accurate or useful. All I care about is whether or not there is the min pressure and I get decent flow rate.

Edit:words.

 

LOL

 

Wow I think the heat today may have broken my brain.

 

It's all good...brainfarts happen

 

That was directed toward the OP

 

Why would someone encourage others to follow a path like this?

Ego over logic and facts.

I do it therefore it's the best thing to do. My conviction trumps facts. Gimme a break.

Lube up any parts in Naval ordinance with that snake oil Lucas makes?