Thinking of buying 1997 - 2001 Cherokee

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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 09:39 AM
  #1  
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Default Thinking of buying 1997 - 2001 Cherokee

Hi to all. I'm a car guy who is thinking of buying a (hopefully lower mileage) 1997 to 2001 as basic go anywhere transportation. My wife will probably be the primary driver in the winter. I Like the idea of the 4L I6, as my family & I had a few AMC cars over the years. The general consensus I am finding is that that these things are pretty much "bullet proof", can run up heavy miles and are fairly easy and affordable to maintain.

Comments? Anybody dissagree? Are there special things I should look for or avoid? Should I rule out vehicles much over 100K as a starting point?

Thanks in advance...

Mike
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Shoveldog
Hi to all. I'm a car guy who is thinking of buying a (hopefully lower mileage) 1997 to 2001 as basic go anywhere transportation. My wife will probably be the primary driver in the winter. I Like the idea of the 4L I6, as my family & I had a few AMC cars over the years. The general consensus I am finding is that that these things are pretty much "bullet proof", can run up heavy miles and are fairly easy and affordable to maintain.

Comments? Anybody dissagree? Are there special things I should look for or avoid? Should I rule out vehicles much over 100K as a starting point?

Thanks in advance...

Mike

Here is my cynical take from 3 years of reading about XJs and owning and modding mine.

They are maintenance ****** that have 17,000 U joints and a billion steering parts.
if any more than 3 are out of spec you get vibes, sloppy steering or death wobble. (Google death wobble videos.)

97s have 3 variations of wiring harnesses, avoid them.

Door switches. The power locks screw up. There is a jumper wire fix

Door window regulators. These break. They made a billion Cherokees. There is no reason for this part to be $200. It just is.
There is a kit-fix out there online. Google around for it. Its iffy and not super cheap either.

2000-2001s have a poor head casting #0331 stamped that will crack if you overheat it slightly. Or look at it funny.
They also have a 2 year only head that features a coilpack so finding new heads is fun.
If you buy a 2K or 01 watch the coolant jug like a hawk hungry for bunnies.

If you lift a 99-2001 they vibrate. A tCase drop fixes 50% of them. An SYE fixes 99% of them.
Then there is my "the 1%" XJ with vibes that nothing will fix. I just take all the loose stuff out of it or wrap it in a towel.

Rust: If you live near a salt shaker they rust. Pull back carpet where you can and check the floors.
If the roof has rust at all walk away. Same with the rockers.
They rust from the inside out like that scene in Alien.

Clocksprings, if your horn/cruise/airbag is dead that part is $200 from a dealer.
$20 from a junk yard.

Rear hatch latches. They like to fail and not open the hatch.
A swift bang just to the right of the handle will usually open it. When it does open fix it on the spot.

Console latches. Yours is broke. You haven't bought a Jeep yet but trust me. Its broke.

Ignition switch. They can wear out and not allow you to start the Jeep. It won't turn.
You're usually OK until you go camping or get to the top of the mountain.

AC evaporators. Oh dear God. Just plan on sweating. Hell Job to fix. You cannot afford to pay a shop to do it.

Crank position sensor. Its on top of the bell.When they fail you stop and the zombies get you.
Jeeps should come OEM with 48" of extensions and a swivel for this job.

Wheel hubs. You can get them for $59 each. If you do, plan on changing them frequently.
Buy Timken for $99 each or plan your weekends accordingly.

Fluid leaks? Yes.
Luckily I have Fords so the driveway is already a lost cause.

Engine clatter. Lifters or rodknock? You'll never know. It'll start after an oilchange and never stop until it grenades or rusts away. According to a few things I have read the 4.0 has a poor fitting wristpin. They eventually all clatter. Mine sounded like a diesel at 140k.
I drove it from Toledo to Traverse City 10 times like this and never worried about it. The only time its a issue is when you go to sell it.
Then the only guy who will buy it will be a Jeep-guy.

4.0s last 300,000miles or they last 150k No real in-between

15-17mpg average as they get older and you ignore codes.
PS 96 and up have no key on-off provision for codes. Reader-only to get em.

If you are a DIY guy they are great.
If you need to take it to a shop for everything, I'd suggest an Accord.


It all sounds super negative but just wait until it snows.
Then the Cherokee shines. It kills the little white fractals with glee.

Hope this helps. I hope no one gets pissed but this has been my experience, personal and anecdotal.

On the other end of this scale my wife's 81k mile XJ is a champ.

Last edited by ToledoXJ; Oct 31, 2011 at 10:44 PM.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 11:03 PM
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
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very good post.

i recommend a '99. best year of the 97-01. but i would also not pass a 00-01.

99 is the last year of the high pinion dana 30. important if you are lifting over 4.5, and running over 33" tires.

98s had a whacky auto trans problem. as in, cant just throw in a 97, 99-01 tranny in there.

for the most part, either tranny is solid tho.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 09:48 AM
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welcome to the site
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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Thanks for the welcomes & responses so far.

Wow! You have given me something to think about! I have a couple of old cars, an older RV, and a Harley, so I'm no stranger to spinning wrenches. I also knew 4WD means more maintenance. But....I don't want to be working constantly on something we want as a daily driver. Are there any better options other than going foreign?

Mike
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 01:14 PM
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L I6
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Mines a daily driver and I have most of these quirks as well. My 98 has 191K, which is my stock offroader and my 2000 has 204K which is a pavement queen. These XJ's aren't constant work but they keep you on your toes. Great solid Jeeps imo. Cracked head issue, I've heard is overrated and rare. My 2000 has been in the snow and salt all its life and has enough rust for 2 Jeeps, but it still is going strong. I will never drive anything but a Jeep after my experiences with these Cherokee's.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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Hey Man Welcome to the club...I'm a newbie to But will welcome you just like an old member...

As far as what ToledoXJ said...He's probably right on a lot of points Good thing I din't read what he said 1st before I bought my '97. There is a lot of junk out there TRUST ME, but as a past CJ owner and Having a '93 GC we gave to our son Jeeps are great...Every old vehicle are nightmares sometimes but look at this way by the time they have seen a 100000 miles most of the problems have been sorted out.

Have fun looking take a look at my '97 I just bought for $3200 in my introduction Post...It has some issues but not anything close to some of the junk people were trying to sell for $$$.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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From: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A.
Year: 1990 Laredo
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well if you like AMC products you could go with a 88-90 Jeep Cherokee... Yes they are older but have less Computer Junk... I am a big fan of the Renix system... easy to keep up on and i Daily drive mine every where... and so has my whole family... so any reason why you must have a new one?
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:44 PM
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Year: 1997
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I have a 97 and love it and refuse to drive anything else
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by poorstang
I have a 97 and love it and refuse to drive anything else
I love mine too.

Its easier though when you have a heated garage, air tools, a press, a welder, a cutoff wheel, BFHs, PBlaster, 6 ton jackstands and a keg.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Shoveldog
Thanks for the welcomes & responses so far.

Wow! You have given me something to think about! I have a couple of old cars, an older RV, and a Harley, so I'm no stranger to spinning wrenches. I also knew 4WD means more maintenance. But....I don't want to be working constantly on something we want as a daily driver. Are there any better options other than going foreign?

Mike
NE Ohio huh? You will love a Cherokee in 3 months.
If you keep it stock they aren't as finiky
Just be very selective as you shop. Print off my list and take it. (Don't let your gal see it)

I have no suggestions as replacements.
You are taking advice from a guy who DD'd this for a while



and this:

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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:33 PM
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Year: 1998
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my 98 is a champ. if you find a well taken care of 97-99...go for it. 00-01 heads, as stated are faulty...and if your not a DIY dood, that stuff can get expensive. cherokee's are simplty stated, a love/love/hate thing...
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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Year: 1998
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Hope you find one, there getting really hard to find (At least for a clean stock one). I think i finally found the one and going to see her Friday. Good Luck, Rob
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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I don't have any direct experience with the '00-'01 head problem, but I have noticed that there aren't many for sale near me, but they're plentiful in the junkyards. Just sayin'.

A lot of the problems that people complain about are the result of a lift kit or other mods that Jeep engineers never designed for. The Wranglers are made to take that kind of thing, but the Cherokee was supposed to be a heavy-duty grocery-getter. My (mostly) unmodified '94 runs like a champ, will tow 3500 lbs no problem, and gets about 18 MPG around town, and 23-24 on the highway. I'm not sure I could buy a new small SUV now that would do as well, certainly not for less than $30K. The new engines just don't have as good a torque curve as the 4.0 I6. I don't have time to do a lot of work on it, so I dump maybe $1500 in maintenance expenses every couple of years to have something major done at a shop (like a clutch, or a new heater core and radiator, new starter, that kind of thing). That's way cheaper than buying a new car. Parts are still available, and cheap. Should stay that way for a few more years yet, thanks to all the off-roaders. Actually, thanks to the off-road crowd, I think it's a little easier to get third-party parts than it was a few years ago.

As older vehicles go, it's tough to beat an XJ. It'll do what it's asked to, and frankly the new small-SUV designs are not quite as good.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by plinkerneil
I don't have any direct experience with the '00-'01 head problem, but I have noticed that there aren't many for sale near me, but they're plentiful in the junkyards. Just sayin'.

A lot of the problems that people complain about are the result of a lift kit or other mods that Jeep engineers never designed for. The Wranglers are made to take that kind of thing, but the Cherokee was supposed to be a heavy-duty grocery-getter. My (mostly) unmodified '94 runs like a champ, will tow 3500 lbs no problem, and gets about 18 MPG around town, and 23-24 on the highway. I'm not sure I could buy a new small SUV now that would do as well, certainly not for less than $30K. The new engines just don't have as good a torque curve as the 4.0 I6. I don't have time to do a lot of work on it, so I dump maybe $1500 in maintenance expenses every couple of years to have something major done at a shop (like a clutch, or a new heater core and radiator, new starter, that kind of thing). That's way cheaper than buying a new car. Parts are still available, and cheap. Should stay that way for a few more years yet, thanks to all the off-roaders. Actually, thanks to the off-road crowd, I think it's a little easier to get third-party parts than it was a few years ago.

As older vehicles go, it's tough to beat an XJ. It'll do what it's asked to, and frankly the new small-SUV designs are not quite as good.

AMEN....
that was well said I couldn't agree more. My son makes decent money for his age and has no bills everything he owns is paid for he could have a new car/trk anytime he wants yet he keeps driving the old Grand Cherokee we gave him and rides his old Honda motorcycle He feels the same way why buy new when this works and doesn't cost him maybe a few hundred a year in maintenance cost.
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