Jeep Cherokee Forum

Jeep Cherokee 1997-2001: How to Replace Wheel Hub and Bearing

Wheel bearings help the hub rotate freely, so that the wheels can rotate freely. When the bearing wears out, the increased friction causes havoc inside the hub.

By Pizzaman711 - September 29, 2015

This article applies to the Jeep Cherokee XJ (1997-2001).

A failing wheel bearing can cause all kinds of problems, including the dreaded death wobble. When they begin to fail, you'll hear a clicking noise coming from that side of the vehicle that matches the speed of the tire rotation. If it gets bad enough, it will resemble a noticeable howling noise at speed. When you turn in the opposite direction of the side of the vehicle that the noise is coming from, the sound will go away. It's important to replace these as soon as possible because worst case scenario, they can weld themselves together and cause a wheel to completely shear off while going down the road. I recommend spending a bit extra and getting the Timken brand wheel bearings, as these will last much longer than the off-brand or even the OEM brand ones.

Materials Needed

  • Tire iron
  • Floor jack
  • Jack stand
  • 13mm socket
  • 13mm 12-point socket
  • 36mm socket
  • Cheater bar

Step 1 – Loosen center axle nut

Since majority of us don't have access to air tools, you'll want to remove this nut first before you really get into the bearing assembly removal. Something to note here is this step relies on your wheels having a center cap that is both removable and leaves an opening large enough for the 36mm socket to pass through. If for some odd reason your wheels don't allow for this, you'll need to have a helper sit inside and hold the brake pedal down while you try to break the nut free.

Figure 1. Loosen center axle nut.
  • Using the tire iron, break free the lug nuts on the wheel.
  • Raise the vehicle using the floor jack and remove the wheel.
  • Remove the center cap from the wheel.
  • Using a pair of pliers or wire snips, remove the cotter pin from the center axle nut.
  • Remove the spring retaining washer from the center axle nut, set this aside in case your new bearing assembly doesn't contain it.
Figure 2. Cotter pin removal.
  • Re-install the wheel and tighten three lug nuts down. Hand-tight is fine.
  • Lower the vehicle back onto its own weight.
  • Using the 36mm socket and your cheater bar, break free the center axle nut, which is exposed through the hub cap hole.
Figure 3. Loosen the center axle nut through the hub cap hole.

Step 2 – Remove the wheel

With the center axle nut loosened, you can now remove the wheel.

  • Remove the lug nuts.
  • Raise the vehicle using the floor jack.
  • Remove the wheel.
  • Lower the vehicle onto a jack stand.
Figure 4. Jack and jack stand locations.

Step 3 – Remove brake caliper and rotor

  • Using a 13mm socket, remove the two caliper bolts. One is located at the top and the other is at the bottom.
Figure 5. Top caliper bolt.
  • With the bolts removed, you can now pry the caliper off of the rotor.
  • I suggest using a piece of wire to tie the caliper up and out of the way, so that the brake line doesn't get damaged.
  • You can now slide the rotor off. If it's stuck on, small hits from a hammer on the backside should be enough to break it free.
Figure 6. Slide the rotor off.
  • Finish removing the 36mm bolt. You should be able to remove it by hand now.

Step 4 – Remove wheel hub assembly

  • Using the 13mm 12-point socket, back out the three bolts that hold the hub assembly on about halfway. You can see two of the bolt locations in Figure 1. below and the third is on the opposite side.
  • Placing the socket back on each bolt to protect it, hit them with a hammer lightly working in a circular pattern to break the hub free.
  • Once the hub is broken free, remove the three bolts.
  • You can now pull the hub assembly off exposing the CV axle shaft.
Figure 7. Hub assembly removal.

Step 5 – Install

  • Line up the splines on the axle shaft with the hub assembly and slide it into place.
  • Using the 13mm 12-point socket, tighten the three wheel hub bolts in a circular pattern until the hub is snug with the knuckle.
  • Torque the wheel hub bolts to 75 ft-lbs.
  • Slide the rotor back into place; I suggest tightening a couple of lug nuts onto it to hold it in place while you install the caliper.
  • Slide the caliper back on and then re-install the two 13mm bolts.
  • Re-install the center axle nut, torque to 200 ft-lbs.
  • Re-install the spring washer and install a new cotter pin to hold it in place.
  • Re-install the wheel.

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