Jeep Cherokee Forum
Push the nut up and cut the tubing as close to the flare as possible.
Push the nut up and cut the tubing as close to the flare as possible.
0 2016/07/19 22:45:58
Rounded the nut on the driver's side hard line.
Rounded the nut on the driver's side hard line.
0 2016/07/19 22:45:30
The master cylinder uses an M12-1.0 and an M10-1.5 nut. I had to buy hard lines to get the new nuts. The 30" line in back has bubble flares on both ends, so I cut it in half and used those as my new hard lines to the prop valve with the bubble flares on the master cylinder side.
The master cylinder uses an M12-1.0 and an M10-1.5 nut. I had to buy hard lines to get the new nuts. The 30" line in back has bubble flares on both ends, so I cut it in half and used those as my new hard lines to the prop valve with the bubble flares on the master cylinder side.
0 2016/07/19 10:36:52
These are the nuts used on the proportioning valve. Be sure to get "Inverted Thread" nuts.
These are the nuts used on the proportioning valve. Be sure to get "Inverted Thread" nuts.
0 2016/07/19 10:36:46
How I broke the back fitting loose. A 1/2" wrench will fit over the nut and down the tubing. Holding the proportioning valve is a 19mm wrench.
How I broke the back fitting loose. A 1/2" wrench will fit over the nut and down the tubing. Holding the proportioning valve is a 19mm wrench.
0 2016/07/19 10:35:59
45deg double flare on the left and a bubble or metric flare on the right. The original master cylinder used the left flare, while the new one from the 95 XJ uses the bubble flare on the right.
45deg double flare on the left and a bubble or metric flare on the right. The original master cylinder used the left flare, while the new one from the 95 XJ uses the bubble flare on the right.
0 2016/07/19 10:33:55
Flare it, then add the bend back. Make sure it sits where it can mate with the rubber line.
Flare it, then add the bend back. Make sure it sits where it can mate with the rubber line.
0 2016/07/19 10:33:19
New nut.
New nut.
0 2016/07/19 10:33:08
0 2016/07/19 10:33:02
Straighten the tube so you can get the new nut far enough up the line to attach the flaring tool. The final bend was too close to the end of the tube for my bender, so I drilled a 3/16" hole in some scrap lumber and fed the tube through until I got it straight.
Straighten the tube so you can get the new nut far enough up the line to attach the flaring tool. The final bend was too close to the end of the tube for my bender, so I drilled a 3/16" hole in some scrap lumber and fed the tube through until I got it straight.
0 2016/07/19 10:31:50
Some of these pics are after the fact. Push the nut up out of the way and cut the hard line just above the flare.
Some of these pics are after the fact. Push the nut up out of the way and cut the hard line just above the flare.
0 2016/07/19 10:31:01
Rounded off the nuts on the hard lines where they mate to the rubber lines.
Rounded off the nuts on the hard lines where they mate to the rubber lines.
0 2016/07/19 10:28:54
So the purple connector is an M12-1.0 which goes to the '95 Cherokee master cylinder, as does the M10-1.5 on the top hard line. The top hard line is 30" long and has bubble flares on both ends. I'm cutting this one in half and using the two bubble flares as the Master Cylinder sides of my two new lines.
So the purple connector is an M12-1.0 which goes to the '95 Cherokee master cylinder, as does the M10-1.5 on the top hard line. The top hard line is 30" long and has bubble flares on both ends. I'm cutting this one in half and using the two bubble flares as the Master Cylinder sides of my two new lines.
0 2016/07/17 22:58:52
These are the two fittings needed for the proportioning valve. Note, for the 45-deg double flare, you need to get fittings labeled "Inverted Thread Size"
These are the two fittings needed for the proportioning valve. Note, for the 45-deg double flare, you need to get fittings labeled "Inverted Thread Size"
0 2016/07/17 22:58:46
The 1/2" wrench will fit over the upper fitting and allow you to break it loose. Be sure to secure the proportioning valve by using a 19mm wrench like the one in my left hand.
The 1/2" wrench will fit over the upper fitting and allow you to break it loose. Be sure to secure the proportioning valve by using a 19mm wrench like the one in my left hand.
0 2016/07/17 22:58:40
And here's where the fun begins. There are 4 types of tubing flares out there: 45-degree single and double flares, 37-degree single flare, and a bubble or metric flare. 37-degree is used with stainless steel lines where AN (army-navy) fittings are required (high performance). 45-degree single flares are used with lower pressure applications (carb lines, etc). The two common flares on brakes are the 45-deg double (on the left in the picture) and the bubble or Metric style (on the right in pic)
And here's where the fun begins. There are 4 types of tubing flares out there: 45-degree single and double flares, 37-degree single flare, and a bubble or metric flare. 37-degree is used with stainless steel lines where AN (army-navy) fittings are required (high performance). 45-degree single flares are used with lower pressure applications (carb lines, etc). The two common flares on brakes are the 45-deg double (on the left in the picture) and the bubble or Metric style (on the right in pic)
0 2016/07/17 22:53:02
Flare the tube, then bend the hard line back so it will mate with the rubber one.
Flare the tube, then bend the hard line back so it will mate with the rubber one.
0 2016/07/17 22:52:32
Put the new fitting on.
Put the new fitting on.
0 2016/07/17 22:52:06
Find some scrap lumber, drill a 3/16" hole in it and carefully shove the line through the hole. You can straighten your line this way.
Find some scrap lumber, drill a 3/16" hole in it and carefully shove the line through the hole. You can straighten your line this way.
0 2016/07/17 22:51:09
Since that final bend is right near the end of the line, it's tough to straighten. You need to straighten it so you can get the new fitting on far enough to leave room for the flaring tool.
Since that final bend is right near the end of the line, it's tough to straighten. You need to straighten it so you can get the new fitting on far enough to leave room for the flaring tool.
0 2016/07/17 22:50:09
I took this after the fact, but but off the old flare, as close to the flare as you can. Try to save as much of the hard line as possible.
I took this after the fact, but but off the old flare, as close to the flare as you can. Try to save as much of the hard line as possible.
0 2016/07/17 22:49:30
Driver's side, front brake hard line to rubber line fitting got chewed up when I was replacing the rubber line. Let's fix it.
Driver's side, front brake hard line to rubber line fitting got chewed up when I was replacing the rubber line. Let's fix it.
0 2016/07/17 22:48:39
Any idea what these two connect to? They're on the same harness as the connector that is on the proportioning valve, but they were just sitting under the brake booster.
Any idea what these two connect to? They're on the same harness as the connector that is on the proportioning valve, but they were just sitting under the brake booster.
0 2016/07/12 21:26:22
Move your windshield washer fluid tank out of the way.
Move your windshield washer fluid tank out of the way.
0 2016/07/12 21:25:35
I'm replacing the brake booster and master cylinder with a larger one from a '95 XJ (I think...I pulled it from the junk yard 2 years ago and don't remember...). I wanted to disconnect the hardlines from the proportioning valve, but couldn't really get at the back one. Got the front one loose, then decided to just take them off the master cylinder first.
I'm replacing the brake booster and master cylinder with a larger one from a '95 XJ (I think...I pulled it from the junk yard 2 years ago and don't remember...). I wanted to disconnect the hardlines from the proportioning valve, but couldn't really get at the back one. Got the front one loose, then decided to just take them off the master cylinder first.
0 2016/07/12 21:23:49
To get the old one off, I got some vise grips on the nut super tight, then hit that brass fitting with my propane torch to expand it. After a few seconds of heat, the nut broke loose. (Cool how they stamped the manufacture date on the inner fender...)
To get the old one off, I got some vise grips on the nut super tight, then hit that brass fitting with my propane torch to expand it. After a few seconds of heat, the nut broke loose. (Cool how they stamped the manufacture date on the inner fender...)
0 2016/07/12 21:22:23
Bolt her down.
Bolt her down.
0 2016/07/12 21:19:56
Test fit everything.
Test fit everything.
0 2016/07/12 21:19:49
Clean your IAC. Reinstall onto the throttle body.
Clean your IAC. Reinstall onto the throttle body.
0 2016/07/12 21:19:09
Poke your holes - don't have to be perfect, as long as you don't rip it and cause a path from the 60mm hole to the outside world.
Poke your holes - don't have to be perfect, as long as you don't rip it and cause a path from the 60mm hole to the outside world.
0 2016/07/12 21:18:08
Cut the gasket out and make adjustments so make it fit. It's important that the gasket isn't obstructing the 60mm opening, as you just went to the trouble of being able to use the entire diameter for airflow.
Cut the gasket out and make adjustments so make it fit. It's important that the gasket isn't obstructing the 60mm opening, as you just went to the trouble of being able to use the entire diameter for airflow.
0 2016/07/12 21:17:00
Using the shank of a screwdriver, rub along the outline of the profile, showing you where to cut.
Using the shank of a screwdriver, rub along the outline of the profile, showing you where to cut.
0 2016/07/12 21:16:20
Lay the material over the hole needing the gasket...
Lay the material over the hole needing the gasket...
0 2016/07/12 21:15:35
0 2016/07/12 21:15:28
So Felpro sells 3 different kinds of bulk gasket material - this one, a rubber-cellulose blend, and a rubber-cork sheet. I'm sure they make others, but this is what Advance had on hand.
So Felpro sells 3 different kinds of bulk gasket material - this one, a rubber-cellulose blend, and a rubber-cork sheet. I'm sure they make others, but this is what Advance had on hand.
0 2016/07/12 21:09:46
0 2016/07/10 13:13:13
0 2016/07/10 13:13:08
0 2016/07/10 13:12:59
0 2016/07/10 13:12:52
0 2016/07/10 13:12:46