Jeep Cherokee Forum
The new booster is thicker, forcing the washer fluid reservoir forward. Drill new holes and reinstall the screws.
The new booster is thicker, forcing the washer fluid reservoir forward. Drill new holes and reinstall the screws.
0 2016/07/20 20:04:13
Those two connectors from a couple posts ago connect to the washer fluid pumps.
Those two connectors from a couple posts ago connect to the washer fluid pumps.
0 2016/07/20 20:03:40
All hooked up! Just gotta swap the rear soft line and bleed the system.
All hooked up! Just gotta swap the rear soft line and bleed the system.
0 2016/07/20 20:03:01
Fit it in and install the lines.
Fit it in and install the lines.
0 2016/07/20 20:02:40
All hooked up!
All hooked up!
0 2016/07/20 20:01:47
Install the booster/MC and connect the lines.
Install the booster/MC and connect the lines.
0 2016/07/20 20:01:23
Tape it up to prevent leaking during install.
Tape it up to prevent leaking during install.
0 2016/07/20 20:00:40
INstall your newly bent lines. I added a bit of power steering hose around the rear hard line to prevent any rubbing on the new booster.
INstall your newly bent lines. I added a bit of power steering hose around the rear hard line to prevent any rubbing on the new booster.
0 2016/07/20 19:59:33
Bench bleed your MC.
Bench bleed your MC.
0 2016/07/20 19:58:35
The new MC takes metric fittings: M12-1.0 (purple fittings) and M10-1.5 (green fittings). The top tube is 30" long with bubble flares on both ends. Cut it in half and use it to make the new lines.
The new MC takes metric fittings: M12-1.0 (purple fittings) and M10-1.5 (green fittings). The top tube is 30" long with bubble flares on both ends. Cut it in half and use it to make the new lines.
0 2016/07/20 19:57:18
Fittings for the prop valve. the Inverted Thread fittings are for the double 45deg flares.
Fittings for the prop valve. the Inverted Thread fittings are for the double 45deg flares.
0 2016/07/20 19:56:16
With the old booster out of the way, you can break the rear fitting loose and remove the line. Hold the prop valve with a 20mm wrench.
With the old booster out of the way, you can break the rear fitting loose and remove the line. Hold the prop valve with a 20mm wrench.
0 2016/07/20 19:55:04
Double 45deg flare on the left, bubble flare for the new MC on the right.
Double 45deg flare on the left, bubble flare for the new MC on the right.
0 2016/07/20 19:54:35
Bench bleed the master cylinder.
Bench bleed the master cylinder.
0 2016/07/20 19:52:52
The MC takes an M10-1.5 (the top fittings) and an M12-1.0 (the purple fitting). The top line is 30" long with bubble flares on both ends. I cut it in half and used it for my new MC to prop valve lines.
The MC takes an M10-1.5 (the top fittings) and an M12-1.0 (the purple fitting). The top line is 30" long with bubble flares on both ends. I cut it in half and used it for my new MC to prop valve lines.
0 2016/07/20 19:51:31
These are the fittings for the original proportioning in my XJ. Be sure to get the "inverted thread" fittings as they are the correct fittings for the double 45deg flare.
These are the fittings for the original proportioning in my XJ. Be sure to get the "inverted thread" fittings as they are the correct fittings for the double 45deg flare.
0 2016/07/20 19:49:17
Brake that rear fitting loose now that the booster is out of the way.
Brake that rear fitting loose now that the booster is out of the way.
0 2016/07/20 19:48:41
Fittings on the left are the double 45deg flare from my old master cylinder and the fitting on the right is the bubble/metric fitting for the new master cylinder.
Fittings on the left are the double 45deg flare from my old master cylinder and the fitting on the right is the bubble/metric fitting for the new master cylinder.
0 2016/07/20 19:47:04
Try to get the bend back near the same place so the nut will mount to the soft line properly.
Try to get the bend back near the same place so the nut will mount to the soft line properly.
0 2016/07/20 19:46:06
New nut.
New nut.
0 2016/07/20 19:45:54
You need to straighten it so the new nut will slide far enough up to get the flaring tool on it.
You need to straighten it so the new nut will slide far enough up to get the flaring tool on it.
0 2016/07/20 19:44:38
The final bend in the line is too close to the end of the line to use my tubing bender to straighten, so I drilled a 3/16" hole in some scrap wood and forced the line through that to straighten it out.
The final bend in the line is too close to the end of the line to use my tubing bender to straighten, so I drilled a 3/16" hole in some scrap wood and forced the line through that to straighten it out.
0 2016/07/20 19:43:32
Cut off the old flare as close to the flare as possible.
Cut off the old flare as close to the flare as possible.
0 2016/07/20 19:43:10
So I buggered up the hard line nut on the driver's side trying to replace the soft lines.
So I buggered up the hard line nut on the driver's side trying to replace the soft lines.
0 2016/07/20 19:42:39
The new booster is thicker, pushing the washer fluid reservoir forward. Have to drill new mounting holes.
The new booster is thicker, pushing the washer fluid reservoir forward. Have to drill new mounting holes.
0 2016/07/19 22:51:20
Those two connectors from my previous post drive those two washer fluid pumps, I think.
Those two connectors from my previous post drive those two washer fluid pumps, I think.
0 2016/07/19 22:51:13
Connect the lines. I had almost no fluid leak.
Connect the lines. I had almost no fluid leak.
0 2016/07/19 22:51:06
Install the new booster/MC
Install the new booster/MC
0 2016/07/19 22:51:00
New hard lines mounted. I put a bit of power steering hose around the back line as it makes contact with the booster. That should keep it from wearing.
New hard lines mounted. I put a bit of power steering hose around the back line as it makes contact with the booster. That should keep it from wearing.
0 2016/07/19 22:50:51
Tilt it upright, remove connectors and tape up the orifices so they won't leak as you install the MC
Tilt it upright, remove connectors and tape up the orifices so they won't leak as you install the MC
0 2016/07/19 22:50:45
0 2016/07/19 22:50:38
Bent the old lines up and bench bled the new setup. Kept pumping until the fluid was clean.
Bent the old lines up and bench bled the new setup. Kept pumping until the fluid was clean.
0 2016/07/19 22:50:30
The MC requires an M12-1.0 (purple connector) and an M10-1.5 (green connector). The top hard line is 30" long with bubble flares on both ends. Since I need two lengths of line with bubble flare on the MC end and a double 45deg flare on the other, I just cut it in half and used those.
The MC requires an M12-1.0 (purple connector) and an M10-1.5 (green connector). The top hard line is 30" long with bubble flares on both ends. Since I need two lengths of line with bubble flare on the MC end and a double 45deg flare on the other, I just cut it in half and used those.
0 2016/07/19 22:50:20
These are the nuts that fit the prop valve. Be sure to buy the "inverted thread" type for the double 45deg flare.
These are the nuts that fit the prop valve. Be sure to buy the "inverted thread" type for the double 45deg flare.
0 2016/07/19 22:50:05
Brake that rear nut loose. The 1/2" wrench will slip over the hard line and get down there. Be sure to hold the prop valve (19mm wrench)
Brake that rear nut loose. The 1/2" wrench will slip over the hard line and get down there. Be sure to hold the prop valve (19mm wrench)
0 2016/07/19 22:49:57
Old MC fittings were the standard 45deg double flare on the left. The new MC from the '95 uses the metric or 'bubble' flare....wankers.
Old MC fittings were the standard 45deg double flare on the left. The new MC from the '95 uses the metric or 'bubble' flare....wankers.
0 2016/07/19 22:48:54
Flare and bend. Connect the new soft line and attach it to the inner fender wall.
Flare and bend. Connect the new soft line and attach it to the inner fender wall.
0 2016/07/19 22:48:04
Put the new nut on.
Put the new nut on.
0 2016/07/19 22:47:48
0 2016/07/19 22:47:40
That final bend is too close to the end of the line for me to straighten so I drilled a 3/16" hole in a piece of scrap lumber and forced the tube through, straightening it. I needed it straight so I could get the new nut high enough to fit the flaring tool on.
That final bend is too close to the end of the line for me to straighten so I drilled a 3/16" hole in a piece of scrap lumber and forced the tube through, straightening it. I needed it straight so I could get the new nut high enough to fit the flaring tool on.
0 2016/07/19 22:46:25