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WJ 3inch lift questions

Old 08-04-2013, 07:11 PM
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Default WJ 3inch lift questions

Hey all,

I've lifted a few XJs, but will be lifting a friend's WJ shortly. We will be doing the IROR 3inch kit.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFW

I am just looking for any helpful tips as to what else I may need other than the hardware that comes in the IROR kit, for example, extended brake lines, or can I just relocate the brackets as I did with the XJ? TCase drop or SYE? I have no experience with WJs, so just looking for some helpful pointers, thanks!
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:31 PM
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The only major difference is the rear suspension. It only has a 3 point control arm setup as opposed to the ZJ's 4. You may need different track bars to center the axles, but I think this only becomes necessary with 4" or more. Don't quote me on that. Make sure your shocks have enough travel so as to not "top out", and you may need longer sway bar links.
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:34 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I'll make sure to take a look at those things
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:26 AM
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I installed this kit on my WJ. Here is what ill say. You dont need to do anything with the brake lines, no SYE, and you dont have to drop the transfer case. Follow the torque specs, and be careful with the rear lower shock mounts( if the sleeve in the bushing isnt large enough, youll start crushing the mount). If your friend can afford it, get something better than the hydro or nitro shocks. My jeep rides pretty stiff. I dont mind it, but my passengers sometimes do. If you get the nitro shocks they should be the Rough Country ones. Youll have to press the bushings in( for the rears) and the sleeves are different, so be aware which one goes where. Mine ended up blowing out somehow and Rough country sent me a newer version so that may have changed.

Depending on the mileage you might want to replace the spring isolators while youre at it. In regards to the rear axle. We dont have a track bar back there( pretty sure the triangulated 3 link centers it..bolts to the unibody at two points and a ball joint ontop of the axle). You might also want to look at the spacer IRO sells for the rear control arm that bring it back to a less severe angle. Itll make the ride less harsh and you wont chew through the bushings in the upper control arm

I lifted mine without using spring compressors. I was lazy, but in the rear it helped when i loosened the bolts holding the balljoint on the upper control arm. The kit comes with extended rear sway links, but not front ones, so maybe have him look into those too if he really wants them. I dont have them and its fine. Maybe get bar pin eliminators as well. The ones from IRO are like $40. Its just easier to do all of this stuff when youre lifting it.

I dont know if Maryland uses a ton of salt like they do in Chicago. If they do, soak everything in PB Blaster. The instructions that IRO give you are pretty good. Very detailed and provide torque specs. Follow them and you wont have a problem. And his steering wheel will have turned 90 degrees when youre done so make sure you can loosen the drag link.

Thats all I have for now.
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:15 AM
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Hey thanks for posting that Jimmay. I was looking for the same info.
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:16 PM
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im in the same boat. looking for a quality kit to order within the next few day. I here if you go 3 u need the whole nine yards of a lift like when you go 4in or more. I just bought a new drive shaft so im not ready for a new lift where I cant use mine. I installed a 2in in my zj and faught the dw til the day I sold it. im just don't have time or funds to fight this in my daily driver. all your input is highly recommend

thanks
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:14 PM
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Thanks for sharing, guys. I've been contemplating a 2" lift on my WJ and your talking points are very helpful. I've been told "Ah, you just put blocks on the springs", but I was reluctant to just do that without attention to the rest of the suspension. Now I know what to watch out for. The drag link is interesting. I hadn't thought about that. I just had an alignment done and the centered steering wheel was the only thing wrong.

Last edited by dave1123; 08-07-2013 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by tyler_zj View Post
im in the same boat. looking for a quality kit to order within the next few day. I here if you go 3 u need the whole nine yards of a lift like when you go 4in or more. I just bought a new drive shaft so im not ready for a new lift where I cant use mine. I installed a 2in in my zj and faught the dw til the day I sold it. im just don't have time or funds to fight this in my daily driver. all your input is highly recommend

thanks
I wouldnt say you HAVE to do everything you would with a 4 inch lift. Hopefully you had a double cardan driveshaft and not the rzeppa-rzeppa one. I had that, swaped it out for the double cardan. Im still using my factory control arms and the front sway links.

I would recommend the IRO kit. I havent had any problems with the kit itself. Most of the things ive replaced were due to the PO not replacing things that were worn out. It does give you a true 3 inches of lift, as i just measured mine. Sitting at 21 in the front hub to fender, and 21.5 in the back( i have about 200 pounds of stuff in the back right now)
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dave1123 View Post
Thanks for sharing, guys. I've been contemplating a 2" lift on my WJ and your talking points are very helpful. I've been told "Ah, you just put blocks on the springs", but I was reluctant to just do that without attention to the rest of the suspension. Now I know what to watch out for. The drag link is interesting. I hadn't thought about that. I just had an alignment done and the centered steering wheel was the only thing wrong.
My jeep has been in chicago its entire life, so the drag link was pretty hard to adjust at first. I ended up replacing it due to the rust. I cannot budge my steering link, and neither could Pepboys( they had a special on alignments). I just installed a budget boost on my friends WJ. Im not too fond of the idea either. Since the factory spring perches sort of "retain" the spring in the cup.

If youre going to lift it, do it right the first time. Yah itll cost more, but youll be happier because things wont be knocking, breaking, and wearing out.
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:09 PM
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I just ordered a 2in lift from bds. it should be here next week and installed next weekend. if I have any questins or concern I will be in touch I hope I don't.

thanks
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:38 PM
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[QUOTE=Jimmay;2570267]I wouldnt say you HAVE to do everything you would with a 4 inch lift. Hopefully you had a double cardan driveshaft and not the rzeppa-rzeppa one. I had that, swaped it out for the double cardan. Im still using my factory control arms and the front sway links.

how you tell what front shaft is under it. I tried looking on google but its has to many pics of both mixed. I have a double u joint on axle end and flat plate with 6 bolts on the tcase.
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:08 PM
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I believe Jimmay was talking about the ones with the CV joint at the axle, like mine BTW.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmay View Post
I installed this kit on my WJ. Here is what ill say. You dont need to do anything with the brake lines, no SYE, and you dont have to drop the transfer case. Follow the torque specs, and be careful with the rear lower shock mounts( if the sleeve in the bushing isnt large enough, youll start crushing the mount). If your friend can afford it, get something better than the hydro or nitro shocks. My jeep rides pretty stiff. I dont mind it, but my passengers sometimes do. If you get the nitro shocks they should be the Rough Country ones. Youll have to press the bushings in( for the rears) and the sleeves are different, so be aware which one goes where. Mine ended up blowing out somehow and Rough country sent me a newer version so that may have changed.

Depending on the mileage you might want to replace the spring isolators while youre at it. In regards to the rear axle. We dont have a track bar back there( pretty sure the triangulated 3 link centers it..bolts to the unibody at two points and a ball joint ontop of the axle). You might also want to look at the spacer IRO sells for the rear control arm that bring it back to a less severe angle. Itll make the ride less harsh and you wont chew through the bushings in the upper control arm

I lifted mine without using spring compressors. I was lazy, but in the rear it helped when i loosened the bolts holding the balljoint on the upper control arm. The kit comes with extended rear sway links, but not front ones, so maybe have him look into those too if he really wants them. I dont have them and its fine. Maybe get bar pin eliminators as well. The ones from IRO are like $40. Its just easier to do all of this stuff when youre lifting it.

I dont know if Maryland uses a ton of salt like they do in Chicago. If they do, soak everything in PB Blaster. The instructions that IRO give you are pretty good. Very detailed and provide torque specs. Follow them and you wont have a problem. And his steering wheel will have turned 90 degrees when youre done so make sure you can loosen the drag link.

Thats all I have for now.
Thank you very much for this info. This is exactly the kind of stuff I was looking for.
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dave1123 View Post
I believe Jimmay was talking about the ones with the CV joint at the axle, like mine BTW.
Mmhhmn the one with cvs at both end. They don't seem to be a fan of lifted jeeps. At least in my experience.
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:26 AM
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Hey guys, I'm looking at putting the Supreme Suspension 3 in. Spacers with pro comp shock in my 2002 Grand Cherokee WJ, I'm not to familiar with cars but know a little, is there anything else I "need" like absolutely must have to drive it. Or is just the spacers and shocks ok. I don't do much off roading, just a few mud holes here and there. Any help would be very appreciated.. thanks!
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