Death wobble
#1
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Death wobble
First things first I have an iron rock 4 inch lift. I have replaced everything having to do with the front end with iron rock hd components. The ballpoints are new and it's towed out about 5/8 of an inch and still getting wobble. The only thing I can think of is the fact my front drive shaft is not connected. I have a 249 transfer case that I want to replace. Any input would be appreciated.
#2
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Lifts are out of my comfort zone, but the same parts are involved. See post #15.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/death-wobble-46240/
https://www.google.com/search?q=cher...w=1440&bih=799
For those that have never experienced Death Wobble, this is whats happening...lifted or not.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/death-wobble-46240/
https://www.google.com/search?q=cher...w=1440&bih=799
For those that have never experienced Death Wobble, this is whats happening...lifted or not.
Last edited by fb97xj1; 08-24-2017 at 11:40 AM.
#3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You should toe the front end in not out. I run about 1/8" of positive toe. The tires naturally want to push out away from each other. Toeing them out will make this even worse. Throw some positive toe at it and see if it helps. Also, what does your caster look like?
#4
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Geez I have never seen DW from the outside. Just have had the lovely pleasure of experiencing it from the drivers seat in multiple Jeeps. And people wonder why its called "death wobble"....
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Thanks for the info. I was told to go out by an unnamed source and couldn't figure out why. In makes much better sense. Not sure about the caster. When I started this journey I had an alignment done and I'm assuming it set at stock specks. What should it be set to?
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Year: 1998
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I can't give you exact alignment specs, I use a tape measure. But going off of stock specs, I'd say a degree or 2 of positive toe should be fine and a bit of negative caster in if you have adjustable control arms.
#7
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I'll give it a shot. I do have adjustable arms and it's a 95 zj so I can adjust my caster at the bolts on the lower arms. Thanks for the info. I will pst the results this weekend after I do the adjustment.
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#8
Old fart with a wrench
GUYS! I just had a mind bomb go off! The lower front control arm mounting holes are slotted for cam bolts, right? When you put adjustable lowers on, you must have to use the cam bolts as well, correct? Otherwise the mounts would be moving back and forth causing wobble. If so, I wonder if everybody does.
#9
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GUYS! I just had a mind bomb go off! The lower front control arm mounting holes are slotted for cam bolts, right? When you put adjustable lowers on, you must have to use the cam bolts as well, correct? Otherwise the mounts would be moving back and forth causing wobble. If so, I wonder if everybody does.
#10
Old fart with a wrench
My point was if some guys do their own lifts, would they think about that?
#11
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Hey guys. I have checked my angles and went tow in about 3/16 to 1/4 inch. My piņon angle up at 4 to 5 degrees. Went for a test run and as soon as I hit about 30 mph the wobble was absolutely unbelievable. I'm completely stumped. Going to check my track bar again. I've already put a larger through the axle end I'm thinking of going ahead and welding a plate on the front side to help hold everything in place. I'm also going to check my new ball joints and see if I blew them out already.
#13
Old fart with a wrench
Hey, no offense guy! I wasn't referring to you, just thinking out loud!
#14
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None taken. I'm just trying to fix my problem. Nothing seems to work. It's making me nuts. I'm to the point where I'm going to go to 4 wheel parts and see what they can do. Which is probably not a lot sense it's not a wrangler unlimited.
#15
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L
Try having someone turn the steering wheel back & forth while you look at the front end. Any loose components can cause DW. Especially keep an eye on that track bar mount at the axle. Those holes wallow out all the time. Any movement there and it's time to weld a washer on.