MJ Comanche Tech. Stock & Modified. MJ (86-92)
All discussion regarding the Jeep Comanche, the pickup truck related to the Cherokee platform.

T and A, Softcore MJ build

Old 04-12-2018, 07:54 PM
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Default T and A Only, Softcore MJ Build

Wanted a MJ for a while and Found a 1990 Comanche Pioneer 4x4 for sale in Arkansas. The truck has a 4.0 auto with 138K on it. Over all it's pretty rough and in need of a lot of TLC. I would like to get the truck running and make it a daily driver/ dirt bike hauler.

Day I bought it. Ran so crappy I barely got it on the trailer.


The exhaust was crimped so bad i'm not sure how it was running at all. Ran better almost instantly after saws all it off.


Pass floorboard was rusted pretty good. Im guessing the window was left down or something as the rest of the truck is completely rust free.


I scored a 4x8 slightly rusty piece of 18gauge sheet metal for 20 bucks and went to town fixing the floor. I cut out all major rust and wire wheeled everything.


Wire wheel, scuffed and then POR15 on both sides for good measure.


Seam sealed all the welded areas.

Last edited by mikebravo; 04-13-2018 at 04:49 AM.
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Old 04-12-2018, 08:23 PM
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I stripped the interior and cleaned it up a little.


Next I started replacing parts. I did a basic tune up, Cap/rotor, coil, plugs and wires, relay, ballast reistor, belt and a oil change. The PO had hotwired the fuel pump to 12volts because the relay on the pass fender was bad, can you say fire hazard? stupid people

Huge thank you to Cruiser54 and his awesome site. I did all of his steps to try and get the Renix 4.0 running right.


The PO had done a horrible intake with RTV and a cheap filter, it was HACK! I ripped that **** off and did a spector plate and a EBAY intake kit. Turned out pretty decent for 20 bucks. The PO also cut out the TPS connector and tried to solder the wires. I re soldered them but since the connector is gone I cannot to the resistance check to rig it per Cruiser54's site. I need to find a connector from the junk yard or find a new one somewhere.


Wish I had taken a photo of the throttle body before I cleaned it. It was straight nasty!




Found a 1999 XJ at the junk yard and pulled the front end, doors, seats and interior parts. I sold the stock parts, bed, tail lights and came out ahead


Picked up 490lbs of steel to start building a custom bed and rear bumper.




Cut right to the rear shackle mount.


2x4 1/4" steel

Last edited by mikebravo; 04-13-2018 at 04:49 AM.
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Old 04-12-2018, 09:12 PM
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Hole sawing 1/4 steel without a drill press sucks ***** :/


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Thick to thin. Had to turn the welder down as I burned through the frame a little but I got it dialed and it turned out pretty good imo.



LED trailer lights are super bright!



There is a blue MJ that inspired me to do a custom bed. I really like the design and will be coping much of it with some different tube work.



Bed is made from 2x3 .120 and 1.5 square .120.

6 bolts mount the bed to the frame. 2 of them are hidden/theft deterrent.



Reused the stock forward mounts






New fuel tank as the stock one had a pin hole leak in the bottom of it. Still Need to fab a mount for the tank and tank straps


Stock door roll pins were worn so bad the doors sagged. I decided to make the new doors removable and used some 5/16 bolts for pins.



Mounted the new strikers.



I need to mount the 97+ seats into the MJ. I think I can reuse the MJ brackets with some mods.



On the to do list,

Install valve cover, oil pan gaskets and rear main seal
Mount seats
Wire tail lights
Wire front turn signal lights
Finish and paint bed(por15)
Make 2x6 sliders
Install D44 rear axle w/spring over
Install 3" springs in the front
Maaco the truck one color

Last edited by mikebravo; 04-12-2018 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 04-14-2018, 12:18 PM
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3" in front and SOA in rear? Do u know that just doing SOA alone would net you approximately 5.5" lift?

Nice work on the bed and nice welds.
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Old 04-14-2018, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by XJwonders View Post
3" in front and SOA in rear? Do u know that just doing SOA alone would net you approximately 5.5" lift?

Nice work on the bed and nice welds.
I did quick measurement and thought about 4-4.5" plus I figured the springs have to have a little sag in them. I hope it's not 5.5" as I would like to keep it low as possible.

Thanks! The Miller 215 is a great machine.
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Old 04-14-2018, 06:33 PM
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Cut and welded on some flat stock for the board mounts on each end. Also made a fuel tank/strap mount. Hit the whole thing with a flap disk and wire wheel getting ready for paint.








Last edited by mikebravo; 04-14-2018 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 04-14-2018, 06:43 PM
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awesome start to a thread man this s going to be great!
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Old 04-15-2018, 11:52 AM
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Looking forward to seeing this build
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Old 04-19-2018, 07:20 PM
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This project looks good. I like the flat bed.
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Old 04-20-2018, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by TrailerTrash View Post
awesome start to a thread man this s going to be great!
Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb View Post
Looking forward to seeing this build
Originally Posted by bad_idea View Post
This project looks good. I like the flat bed.


Thanks guys.
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Old 04-20-2018, 08:42 PM
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Had to redo the fuel tank mount on the bed. I made it too high and the lip of the tank was hitting the side of the frame. The mount is still about 5" higher than stock. I bought some all thread to make new J bolt for the straps and also got a new fuel pump.

I want to try and get the tank done and the seats installed this weekend then I will be able to drive it again







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Old 04-22-2018, 03:26 PM
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Made some j bolts and got the tank hung. Also made a mount for the filler neck. I bought a gallon of tractor supply brand paint and hardener for cheaper than a pint of POR15. I'm going to brush on the rear frame and spray the bed. Hope it turns out good. Guy at the store said with the hardener this paint is tough as nails.














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Old 04-22-2018, 04:11 PM
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Anyone have experience deleting the rear brake controller thing located above the rear axle? I'm going to do GM 3/4 ton calipers with weld on brackets. Can I just cap the line to the valve thing at the master cylinder?
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Old 08-02-2018, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mikebravo View Post
Anyone have experience deleting the rear brake controller thing located above the rear axle? I'm going to do GM 3/4 ton calipers with weld on brackets. Can I just cap the line to the valve thing at the master cylinder?
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f88/lo...lement-242245/
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Old 12-01-2018, 06:30 PM
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Back at it after a few other project got in the way.

I finished the bed and have been driving it every now and then. I found another 1990 MJ, 5 speed, 4.0 for sale and bought it to swap mine to manual.








Got a set of used 35" KM2s and Pro comp wheels for 300 bucks! two of the tires are worn but still a pretty good deal.





4.5" RE springs, Rear leaf perches for my XJ D44, 3 link tabs and panhard bar mount.



Last edited by mikebravo; 12-01-2018 at 06:38 PM.
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