nascargirl1997

Mine still makes noise, but doesn’t seem to be getting louder. I can’t seem to find anything online either.

jhower2327

Not sure if anyone else had this happen or even if it is related but I have had the traction control light come on now three different times when hearing the noise. When this happened, the noise was much louder and happened for a longer period of time. I think it is related but I can't get the dealer to return my calls. I have an appointment scheduled for next week at a different dealer.

travistee

@ death dealers assistant: How do you have a lifetime drive train warranty? Was that something unique to your dealer?

Is this only on the Cherokee Limited?
Which engines are having this problem?
What active drive system does the Limited have?

I have a '19 Latitude Plus V6. I only get a clunking noise when I shift into, or was it out of, manual mode while the car is moving, so now I only go into or out of manual mode while the car is stopped.

The Latitude Plus has active drive 1. Thats select-terain with auto, snow, sport, mud and sand.

If the Limited has a different active drive that should be the reason I think.

I have 5000 miles on it and no problems.

jhower2327

Has anyone reached out specifically to FCA? After talking with a friend who was having an issue with a Ford Explorer he bought, he suggested I file a claim with the manufacturer to help push the process further. I did that and I have a case manager that I have been in contact with concerning the issue. The dealer put the STAR report in but I filed my own claim with FCA as well as filed a complaint with NHTSA. Not sure how you feel the noise is but the noise in my Cherokee is just getting worse and I am just hitting 2,000 miles this week.

Yesterday, I found that I also have a DS rear axle that has a lot of excessive play compared to the PS. In PA, this has the possibility to fail our Annual Safety Inspections. I am going to have it measured to see exactly how much play it has but I am still looking for the specs on those axles. I do think this is some of my noise problem but not all of it. The service manager at the dealer told me that he won't fix it because FCA isn't going to let him do so. I think he trying to pull something over on me about that one. I told my FCA case manager about the axle. I am convinced this is a drive train issue and not suspension.

travistee

Now that I see the types of issues that can happen with warranty repairs at FCA dealers I got this extended warranty from Geico.
It doesn't have the restrictions that the factory warranty has.

Geico offers an extended warranty if your car has less than 15K miles and you are the first owner, and you add it in the first 15 months.
Its good for 7 years or 100K miles.

Having read the problems here I just added it to my policy. It's about $33 a year with a $250 deductible

The reason is that if the dealer doesn't want to fix a problem then Geico will do it.
It would be up to them if they think the dealer should reimburse them.

Roger Cloutier

my 2019 does the same thing dealer found a lot of slake in the transfer case they are going to replace soon as they get one seems there is a lot of demand for them

HPowell2019

The "traction control" is your ABS brakes kicking in. Mine will "kick in" when going over speed bumps a little too fast (rear brakes only). There is a "traction control" button in the center console that will turn it off. If you read the manual, it will instruct you to manual turn off "traction control" if you are stuck (mud or snow) and need to "rock" the car or spin the tires. With AWD/4WD you are more likely not to get "stuck" in snow or mud but if you notice an area of road or payment that the "traction control" always seems to "activate" you can turn it off and see what happens (this does not effect ABS braking). That's how I figured out I was "driving a little too fast for the computer's liking" over speed bumps. I take the bumps a little slower now and no more noise. Here is what I found to explain it: "Enter electronic traction control. In modern vehicles, traction-control systems utilize the same wheel-speed sensors employed by the anti-lock braking system. These sensors measure differences in rotational speed to determine if the wheels that are receiving power have lost traction. When the traction-control system determines that one wheel is spinning more quickly than the others, it automatically "pumps" the brake to that wheel to reduce its speed and lessen wheel slip. In most cases, individual wheel braking is enough to control wheel slip. However, some traction-control systems also reduce engine power to the slipping wheels. On a few of these vehicles, drivers may sense pulsations of the gas pedal when the system is reducing engine power much like a brake pedal pulsates when the anti-lock braking system is working." I have not experienced the "pulsing gas pedal" but I could hear the ABS kicking in, sounds like a grind/clicking noise from whichever tire the system is engaging. Hope this helps.

Crossover

I always felt that it was play in the drive line by the way it clunks. When l let off on the gas in the 20 to 45 mph range, and then get back on l hear a distinctive clunk. It like there is slack in drive line when you let off, and then when you get back on it has to catch up, and in doing so, clunks. Slack in transfer case could very well be the problem.

HPowell2019

Here is some interesting reading, if anyone is looking, I don't think the systems have changed enough between 2015 & 2019 models to make this obsolete.

https://www.caranddriver.com/jeep/cherokee/specs

Below was taken from: "From Inclement Weather to Harsh, Off-Road Environments, FCA Canada Drivelines Deliver a Full Range of Capability"

Front-Wheel Drive-Based 4x4 Systems
The 2015 Jeep® Cherokee offers customers a choice of three innovative 4x4 systems for best-in-class 4x4 capability in all weather conditions. The Jeep Cherokee is the first mid-size SUV to feature rear-axle disconnect, which benefits fuel economy by reducing the parasitic losses normally associated with traditional 4x4 systems.

The rear-axle disconnect seamlessly switches between two- and four-wheel-drive for full-time torque management and does not require driver input. The Cherokee’s three systems are:

• Jeep Active Drive I

Available on the Cherokee Sport, North and Limited models, Jeep Active Drive I features a single power transfer unit (PTU) which is fully automatic and delivers seamless operation in and out of four-wheel drive at any speed. The system does not require any driver intervention or feedback, delivers yaw correction during dynamic events and improves both understeer and oversteer conditions. Jeep Active Drive I offers balanced torque distribution with brake traction control. The four-wheel drive performance results from a fully variable wet clutch housed in the rear drive module. The clutch supplies the proper amount of torque for any driving condition, including slippery conditions, aggressive starts and dynamic driving. Sophisticated controls enable the system to contribute to the driving dynamics while interacting with the Electronic Stability Control (ESC) system when approaching the traction limits of the road surface.

• Jeep® Active Drive II

Available on the Cherokee North and Limited models, Jeep Active Drive II includes a two-speed PTU with torque management and low range. 4-Low mode locks the front and rear drive shafts for low speed power or towing. Low range provides a 2.92:1 gear reduction. The gear reduction allows for enhanced climbing ability as well as outstanding crawl ratios for severe off-road conditions. The 2015 Jeep Cherokee with Jeep Active Drive II gives the off-road adventurer a crawl ratio of 56:1 when powered by the 2.4-litre Tigershark™ MultiAir® I-4 engine, and 48:1 when powered by the new 3.2-litre Pentastar™ VVT V6 engine. Jeep Active Drive II works in conjunction with the Selec-Terrain® system to aggressively modify the torque distribution while monitoring the engine transmission and ESC system, providing power to the wheels that will deliver the most traction.

• Jeep Active Drive Lock

Jeep Active Drive Lock includes all the features of Jeep Active Drive II and adds a locking rear differential for superior low-speed power for rock crawling or severe off-road conditions. The locking rear differential is selectable in any low-range terrain mode, but will lock automatically when in certain modes, such as “Rock,” to maximize tractive effort. Jeep Active Drive Lock is standard on all Trailhawk® models.

Selec-Terrain traction control allows the driver, with a push of a button, to choose the appropriate on- or off-road setting for optimum performance. It electronically coordinates and optimizes up to 12 systems on any terrain, providing enhanced vehicle control through the drivetrain control module, electronic brake controller, ESC, transmission controller, powertrain controller and Selec-Speed Control (Hill-ascent and Hill-descent Control). Selec-Terrain modes are:

• Auto
  • Standard Drive mode
  • Standard electronic brake controls
  • Automatically detects need for four-wheel-drive engagement
  • Front/rear torque split is fully active and variable depending on the driving conditions
• Sport
  • For enhanced on-road driver control
  • Traction control is limitedESC slip thresholds are raised
  • Driveline torque bias for improved cornering

• Snow
  • Second gear launch
  • For use in inclement weather
  • Slick surface electronic brake controls
  • Full-time four-wheel drive
• Sand/Mud
  • For enhanced driver control in off-road conditions
  • Off-road electronic brake controls
  • Full-time four-wheel drive

• Rock (available on Trailhawk® with Jeep® Active Drive Lock)
  • For use on obstacles
  • Off-road electronic brake controls with increased brake lock differential capacity
  • Available in 4-Low only

In addition, the ESC system will change mode in coordination with the Selec-Terrain® mode chosen:

• ESC remains full on with Auto and Snow modes
• ESC is off when in 4-Low
• ESC is in Partial mode for Sport, and Sand/Mud modes

Partial mode means aid from traction control and stability control are reduced, but antilock braking system (ABS) and electronic roll mitigation remain fully enabled.

In 4-Low, the Selec-Terrain system shifts front and rear axles to a 2.92:1 gear set for increased torque and control off-road.

When in neutral, the 2015 Jeep Cherokee equipped with Jeep Active Drive II or Jeep Active Drive Lock disconnects the driveline for flat towing behind another vehicle, such as a recreational vehicle (RV).

Rherrm

I bought my 2019 cherokee v6 and at about 1k miles on it i was turning left from a stop sign into a store. About 1/2 through the turn there was a "BANG" then i heard something, a part, hit the pavement. I pulled over but the traffic was too bad to investigate. I so wish i would have found the part that hit the pavement. About 2 days later turning right this time, the same thing happened, but i didn't hear a part fall off this time. Since then i have had what most of you are complaining about. At about 30-40'ish miles per hour when i am coasting on a level road or slightly going down hill and i re-touch the gas to maintain speed i get a distinct clunk. Similar to a bad CV joint sound. I took it in to the dealer and the tech took it on a test drive, but didn't hear a thing. I WISH i would have went on the ride with him. He looked at the front end up on the rack, but everything looked normal to him. Well, i paid 30'ish k for this thing and there is NO WAY this is normal. I sold a Subaru and it never did that. I have a Honda Pilot and it never did that. I now have about 11-12k on it and am going to take it in again. When the part hit the ground my guess is it most likely was high-strength bolt of some sort that broke. The trans seems to shift ok. When we had snow this winter the drive system seemed to work ok. The engine runs well. I have had it suggested that it may very well be a strut, shock, motor/trans mount bolt. I don't know about you guys but this is garbage. I wish i would never have bought this thing at times. IF anyone finds a solution PLEASE post..... Thanks!!

guitar54

Mine is still doing this. Welcome to KL hell. Not to be negative but my KL has been in the shop so many times it's almost been entirely rebuilt and the trans still sucks. After my warranty runs out - adios and not looking back. Such a shame. No solution to my clunking to answer your question. Dealer can't or is too lazy to find the issue. Additionally my brake pedal squeaks. Another issue to be added to the list.

Rherrm

Thanks for replying.... How do you like that 9 speed transmission? Wow. What a mess. I get clunks when it downshifts to first quite often. I told my wife this morning, did i ever make a mistake with this. It is cute. But lipstick on a Pig, is still a Pig.

I have noticed on mine when i have gone over "washboard" type roads, going real slow, that it rattles on the left side also. Like a shock or strut is loose. ALL from the left drivers side. It's going to take more then lipstick next time i buy..... But you think with all of these rigs on the road, i see zillions of them, they can't all be bad. Maybe we all got lemons or something.... 20k more miles and my warranty is up...

guitar54

When the 9 speed works - it's smooth but working smoothly is rare. Mine clunks all the time when downshifting. I had to have a new trans put in about a year and a half ago - still is clunking and searching for gears.

My wife only drove it once and frankly - I'm scared for her to drive it. This is a safety issue for sure. I'm only keeping this thing till my extended warranty runs out period.

I bought it cause I liked the unique look but the trans and many other things have been totally not worth $40K. First week, ready to make a cross country trip, navigation stops working - no lie - only a week old. Then an oil sensor goes out, then the entire heating air needs replacing (the dash part), new trans, new steering wheel, the many recalls and TSB's, trans probably got 10 software updates, front axles replaced, the list goes on.....Oh and just last week - had to have a new PTU unit - as I said. All I can do is laugh and spread the word via social networking and my friends - stay away from FCA!

Lemons - seems like for every good one there are at lease 2-3 bad ones. Now I see there is another recall coming not the 2014 trans.....it never ends. And the Jeep First people only jump in when they can make something right making them look like heroes. (sorry for the negative on these people).

So - don't get me started! haha. All I can do is laugh. Worst vehicle I've ever owned mechanical wise. My lawn mowers ran better then this thing! Good luck my friend.

Rherrm

Oh my. What a mess. That write-up of yours is going to give me nightmares. No joke. If i was going to sell it, someone would surely notice the clunking. Even if not on the initial test drive, but after owning it for a day or two and the love affair is over they would hear the clunk. I am not sure i can even sell it for certain. I suppose i could trade it in, but i don't believe i want another Chrysler type product. Is the whole issue this screwy, gear seeking, transmission do you think??

HPowell2019

Don't know if this helps but I have a 2019 Cherokee (base model) V6 and the transmission is working just fine (surprise). Owned a 2014 Cherokee (2nd owner) and that 9-speed trans was the worst, motor was great (under powered for the Jeep) but no issues. In reading about all the issues with the 9-sp, I wondered about mine, so I did a little work out. Shifted it from auto to manual a number of times at various speeds and NOTHING, smooth as glass. If I remember correctly the old 9-sp would pop into a lower gear when going from auto to manual, my current 9-sp does not, goes right into the gear it was in while in auto. Here is what I experienced (25mph - 1 or 2 gear), (30mph - 3 gear), (35mph - 4 gear), (40mph - 5 gear), (45 mph - 6 gear). The owners manual also states that the "new" 9-sp will auto shift up or down (even in manual mode) as to prevent excessive rpms and if the transmission gets too hot - it will not allow manual mode at all (pg 269 - 272, AutoStick 273-274). After reading all the instances in which the Auto Stick does not function (computer override), is this really a "manual shift" or just lipstick on a pig? I also read something about a "Torque Converter Clutch", very interesting. Had I known this about my 14', I would have asked the dealer to "check it" and make sure it was working correctly. If your transmission is really acting up, I would insist on the dealer "fixing it", that may involve having someone (an Engineer) visiting the dealer and doing the work, not for your average mechanic.