ZJ Tie Rod Upgrade
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
What is your intention? Mostly on-road with some occasional light "off-road" trails?
The ebay kit should be just fine for it. Unfortunately I don't have that much long-term experience with it, but it feels like it will last a fair amount of time as my truck sees 80% highway and daily-driver duties.
I went with that seller specifically because of the 5 year warranty, they have been around Ebay for a bit which is a good sign that they will be in business for at least a few years, and because their RMA process seemed pretty simple and doesn't look like it will require me sending the entire steering assembly in if I need a part replaced.
My plan is to replace any failed components with MOOG as I need, RMA the original part and keep it as a spare or something. Should last me a year or two before I upgrade to OTK 1-ton steering. I was not ready to go OTK and I didn't want to spend a ton of money for stock replacement steering, or go UTK for the interim period
The ebay kit should be just fine for it. Unfortunately I don't have that much long-term experience with it, but it feels like it will last a fair amount of time as my truck sees 80% highway and daily-driver duties.
I went with that seller specifically because of the 5 year warranty, they have been around Ebay for a bit which is a good sign that they will be in business for at least a few years, and because their RMA process seemed pretty simple and doesn't look like it will require me sending the entire steering assembly in if I need a part replaced.
My plan is to replace any failed components with MOOG as I need, RMA the original part and keep it as a spare or something. Should last me a year or two before I upgrade to OTK 1-ton steering. I was not ready to go OTK and I didn't want to spend a ton of money for stock replacement steering, or go UTK for the interim period
Seasoned Member

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 499
Likes: 58
From: DFW
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have the v8 zj stuff already, I've had a shimmy in the front end for a while now. Thinking of replacing this with new stuff, I had bought it second hand.
My jeep is only driven on the road when driving to the trails, can be 2+hr drive. The parts have been good so far when I'm wheeling the reason Im not wanting to go to a UTK/OTK kit. Plus they are like $300.
I usually do MOOG, ball joints for one, but man for almost half price I could get this kit. My jeep usually just sits in my driveway.
My jeep is only driven on the road when driving to the trails, can be 2+hr drive. The parts have been good so far when I'm wheeling the reason Im not wanting to go to a UTK/OTK kit. Plus they are like $300.
I usually do MOOG, ball joints for one, but man for almost half price I could get this kit. My jeep usually just sits in my driveway.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Screw it then, get the $100 kit and beat on it 
My steering was so worn out, I thought my steering box was 100% responsible for my loose steering, but it was probably only 30% - replacing the steering linkage totally tightened everything up again.

My steering was so worn out, I thought my steering box was 100% responsible for my loose steering, but it was probably only 30% - replacing the steering linkage totally tightened everything up again.
Senior Member



Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 939
Likes: 71
From: Abysmo, NJ
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 499
Likes: 58
From: DFW
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's the other thing, im not too sure that this is my issue with my wobble/DW issue.
The work isn't bad at all. Not worried about that...but i've been known to be a bit lazy... HAHA
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Changing tie-rod-ends takes like 30 minutes if you remembered to coat everything in anti-seize when installing. Just RMA the bad joint (might want to email them to check how their RMA process works with multi-part kits), replace with one from the local parts store, and you then have a spare.
OR upgrade to 1-ton steering and do it right to begin with. $170 vs ~$300 is not a huge amount of difference, plus a bit more work to never have to do it again, especially if its a dedicated wheeling rig and you don't need to drive it to work while you are installing the steering kit
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 643
Likes: 1
From: s.jersey
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 499
Likes: 58
From: DFW
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Do you happen to know what their store brand is?
Seasoned Member

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 499
Likes: 58
From: DFW
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've been reading various threads on tie rods and people upgrading to a more beefier zj setup. However I have a zj and mine seems to be the stock xj thin rolled sheet metal people are talking about. Did the PO put on the wrong tie rod or do they ZJ's come with the same stock setup as the xj?
I did end up buying that kit, and it has been installed for about 1500 miles or so. Mostly on-road but a few wheeling/camping trips and has held up great - feels brand new still even after beating on it a little.
This is the exact listing;
Jeep ZJ Steering Kit
Huge improvement over my worn out stock components, absolutely worth the $100 or whatever it cost me.
The only non-greasable tie rod is the one on the Drag Link on the steering knuckle side (also non-replaceable).
All the parts installed just fine, included new castle nuts, zerk fittings, cotter pins, and all required bolts.
This is the exact listing;
Jeep ZJ Steering Kit
Huge improvement over my worn out stock components, absolutely worth the $100 or whatever it cost me.
The only non-greasable tie rod is the one on the Drag Link on the steering knuckle side (also non-replaceable).
All the parts installed just fine, included new castle nuts, zerk fittings, cotter pins, and all required bolts.


