s14unimog

ya, if you want that, do it. I was just demonstrating the math. Don't go from hearsay

SuperGlue

Im personally going to 4:10s with my 33's. With a manuel. My neighbor has an auto with 4:56's and 32" LTB's. He loves it and it feels like it has tons of power on the highway and trail. He also has a crate motor, and has his AW4 set up with a switch panel so he can manually shift through gears and lock his torque converter...

Atmos

that sounds a little bit out of my budget. what a setup

Atmos

I kind of have to for my first build.
if I can pull some 4:10's from a yard I'll try that. or end up buying some
it'll be a trial and error deal to see what I like

Mike H.

High performance clutches designed with weights (Centerforce) are designed to work at rpm using centrifugal force to throw the weights and add gripping power. No point paying the extra coin for a rig that is running around at idle. Other performance clutches add so much grip that slipping the clutch becomes a nice chatter experience. Unless you are racing your jeep at high rpm stick with the stock clutch.
Performance does not always equal better.
My factoy original clutch lasted 175k miles… I replaced it with another factory spec one.

Gearing is a much discussed topic.
I run 33’s with 4.56’s and would not have it any other way. My rig is my daily driver, and for 2 years I dove 2600 miles a month in that configuration with weekly 3hr trips (1 way) at 65-75mph. I turned 2500-3100 rpm for hours on end. Rig routinely returned 18.8mpg. A worst trip of 17.5mpg, and a best of … don’t remember, but it was close enough to 20mpg to call it that. Rig had 150k or some odd miles on it at the time and has 190k on it now and runs just fine.
Depending on what type of terrain you wheel, and how hard you push your rig, you may even want to go with a 4:1 transfer case gear set which is what I did, and would not want to run the 2.72’s again.
3.07’s and 33’s on an ax-15… not on the trails/terrain I run. Clutch would never last.

I guess I’ll not get into exploding clutches but I’ve had water coming up through the transmission tunnel and filling the footwells on countless occasions and the clutch was the least of my worries.

Guess I’m not sure what the benefit of removing the netural safety switch is as you can start the rig just fine with a wrecked clutch. Mine got me several mile of low range rock crawling, then all the way home with a destroyed clutch and the NSS in the factory configuration. When I had to stop I pulled the rig out of gear and shut it off. When I had to start I put the rig in first, shoved the clutch in to activate the switch and fired it up… then matched rev’s to continue on.

Hope this helps.

Atmos

daily driving. so I'm looking for semi decent fuel economy.
then dirt as much as possible and down the road, rocks and more rocks.
rubicon, fordyce creek, anything the rig is capable of
future specs: I6 HO NP231 AX-15_33/12.5_5.5in long arm_4:10 gearing_eaton elockers_tons of armor

caged

when the clutch is under water, and you depress the clutch pedal, if the bellhousing is filled with water, it can't be compressed. add this with sandy or muddy water and the clutch will slip.
but the clutch material is organic and when compressed in water, i've seen a brand new rubicon's clutch puke out an oatmeal substance out the bottom hole about 5 minutes after it came out of the water hole.

that's why there is a clutch override option in jeeps. the starter is plenty strong enough to limp yourself out of the water just by turning the key in gear.
and in low range, it can bum start the jeep.

and to answer your question if you just go with second gear and not lose momentum, that's exactly what i do. but if i get spinning and lost momentum, i will shut the jeep off and stick it in reverse and just back up using the starter.

hankthetank

I've never seen a completely sealed bellhousing...this makes no sense. What you're talking about has more to do with a hot clutch and flywheel suddenly being submerged in cold water...

caged

i didn't say the bellhousing is completely sealed, very far from it, hence getting filled up with water when the water is deep enough.

if the water level was high enough, and your transmission was under water, the water would find it's way into the bellhousing, filling the cavity with dirty water. water does not compress, so when you push the clutch in, completely submerged, you will have to compress against the water.

think of it this way, next time you're in a pool, lake, or whatever, take a dinner plate in with you. now with both hands, push the plate forward while under water.

get the idea yet?
now with a completely soaked hot clutch, made of organic material....


a hot clutch and pressure plate suddenly submerged in cold water won't do anything, until you press the clutch in.


anyways, what i'm saying is it's not a good idea, but do it if you want.

Bustedknuckle

Yeah, after 190,xxx, my o.e. throwout bearing crapped out, and I'm still not sure what else went with it. I flushed the trans 2 weeks ago, and mud came out. Then a few days ago it kicked the bucket.

hankthetank

That's called fluid dynamics! There's no compression dude! If water can get into the bellhousing that easy there's no way you will compress it! It will just squish out again!! Maybe you're unclear on the concept. If I push a dinner plate through water?... Nothing gets compressed!!!!
Hot metal and " organic compounds" won't do anything eh? It's the same as your brakes dude. Getting your brakes hot and submerging your wheels is not good for it...
BTW, I'm totally clear on the concept.

Atmos

I'm just gonna winch through the water dont worry about it guys. haha