tavish_g

Ok so was wandering around orscheln's and found these items:

will this work for UCA's?:

http://www.tractorpartsinc.com/top_links_8519_prd1.htm


and this for LCA's?:

http://www.tractorpartsinc.com/top_links_8520_prd1.htm

and this for the Trackbar:?

http://www.tractorpartsinc.com/top_links_8530_prd1.htm

According to the chart i have for a 4" lift the UCA's are supposed to be 15.03" long, and the LCA's are supposed to be 16.33", i'm not sure about the trackbar length i'll have to measure it.
I realize that i will have to mount the trackbar axle end on top of the axle or box top and bottom of stock trackbar axle mount, and that the LCA's are supposed to have a bend to them in order to flex, but i think i would just try to box the bottom and top of the axle end LCA mounts and it would probably be ok. If this would work it would sure save some time and money on either fabbing my own or buying aftermarket. I think i would also have to somehow source my own rubber or poly bushings for this to make the ride bearable. Also the piece i was looking at for the trackbar appeared that i could be TRE in there instead of the joint it comes with. just kicking around some ideas, i'm pretty sure the machine shop by my house could bend the items i would use as LCA's without sacrificing strength in the tubing. I'll go out and check and see if i can easily fab something to make the trackbar and drag link parallel with a straigt bar or if i'll have to figure something else out. What do you guys think?

N20jeep

i dont see why they wouldnt work...good find.

do you know the thickness of them? and what size joints they are?

Niac

Those rod ends are metal on metal. I don't think they will last long. There are no grease fittings. Most farmers just smear some grease on them with their finger every day, or let them wear out.
After market adj. conrol arms use a lined rod end. Usually nylon as it's cheaper than teflon.

tavish_g

i think the joints are 7/8's thread, i'll have to go back and look at what the actual hole in the joint size is, and i could just put some grease fittings on them and isolate them with some poly or rubber bushings, shouldn't be too difficult.

edit: the tube diameter was 1 and 3/4" but they also had different ones for about $7 more that were 2" tube

tavish_g

ok the wall thickness is 1/4"

1hotboat

X 2 were the ball end is is metal to metal not where the bolt will go...with that said yes they will work but I am betting not for long on DD (if that's what you do) Remember a farmer is not concerned about a little slop in these rods that support there implements. Allso keep in mind that 1 quality rod end alone will cost about what you are paying for 4 of those rods put together. I think you get what you pay for fits in this situation,Just my 2 Cts...If you try them let us know how thy work out. Oh and I doubt thy would meet DOT standards in any way....just saying

Edit I would not try them due to safety concerns...not the parts I would cut corners on..IMHO

tavish_g

well it was worth a shot, i guess i'll keep em in mind if i ever have a rig that is trailered to the ohv parks. i guess i'll just have to get the legit arms. i didn't even consider the legality of running these, would hate to get a massive ticket for having them on the truck or worse end up flipping it from excessive dw.

outkast

I used a set similar to that for a trackbar on an old Ford pickup. Never had a problem with it as far as slop goes but was only a wood hauler. I don't see a safety issue with them as it would be hard for them to be weaker than the stock stamped steel parts.

Outkast