Wobble at 50mph only
01-05-2012, 01:00 PM
#1
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K, so I had death wobble when hitting bumps or anything uneven in the road. And this would happen at any speed over 45mph. So I replaced my worn TRE's and trac bar and mount So now when I drive the jeep the steering shakes at 50 mph only! Doesn't happen when hitting bumps, just when I reach that speed. Not at 49 or 51, only 50 mph. If I speed up it goes away and drives like a dream. So I stuck my head out the window and watched the front tire and it wobbles like it did before I replaced parts. But this kind of wobble isn't out of control nor does it require me to come to a stop for it to go away. What you think? Still a mild case of DW?
01-05-2012, 01:12 PM
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Year: 1999
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Engine: Runs
Your wheel could be out of balance. Or you could have some hub or wheel bearing problems. Or it could be out of line a little bit.
In my case I replaced the worn out wheel hubs and seemed to cure my problems. It returned a little after a couple of months then rotated tires and problem solved! Hope this helps. Keep us posted!
In my case I replaced the worn out wheel hubs and seemed to cure my problems. It returned a little after a couple of months then rotated tires and problem solved! Hope this helps. Keep us posted!
01-05-2012, 01:19 PM
#3
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Yes, a very mild case of DW.
I've found that most of the time you have a mild case it's either a LITTLE bit of play in the tierod or control arm bushings.
I have the same wobble at 45.
Not 44 or 46. 45...
I've tried EVERYTHING except control arm bushings.
I've found that most of the time you have a mild case it's either a LITTLE bit of play in the tierod or control arm bushings.
I have the same wobble at 45.
Not 44 or 46. 45...
I've tried EVERYTHING except control arm bushings.
01-05-2012, 01:46 PM
#4
Do you hear banjos?
Many, many, many threads regarding DW here, just look around....could be a multitude of things, honestly. As it happens, more things will wear out, so it's something you want to avoid as much as you can...
01-05-2012, 01:54 PM
#5
Junior Member
Bam.
The first steps to eliminate death wobble should be a visual inspection of each component, check the bushings, tire balance and an alignment. These are some common things you must check anytime you lift your Jeep. Death wobble is experienced mostly on lifter Jeeps, however it is not uncommon for someone without a lift to experience the dreaded DW. Listed below are a few things you can check.
Check your Track Bar, play in this can cause the axle to shake.
1. Bushings - check to see that they are not worn. Looks for cracks, and excessive play)
2. Angles - this angle should be the same as your draglink. Use an angle finders you can get at sears to determine this, don’t just eye-ball it.
3. Bolts – Make sure all bolts are tightened down to spec (some lift components have a different torque spec then)
Check the Axle, your mounts may be worn
1. Check the axle mount. Here is a good write up on a wallowed out bolt hole
http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
2. Check your Universal joints, a binding or lose U-Joint can cause DW
3. On the frame end if you still use the conventional Tie Rod End or (TRE) make sure that there is no play in this, as play can cause DW.
4. Look/Check for worn/torn boots on ball joints/tie-rod ends.
Check your Tires
1. Out of balance tires can cause shaking in the front end, which can lead to death wobble.
2. Make sure all of your lug nuts are tight, (Sounds elementary but it happens to the best of us)
Check your Frame
1. Small cracks in the frame can cause the steering box to feel loose, Shaking from DW can only make this worse. 33’s and larger should have some form of Steering box brace, or frame brace in.
2. If you have upgraded your frame mount, make sure its cranked down nice and tight. (best to use an impact gun)
3. A busted Frame Mount can cause play in the front end causing DW (Keep a watchful eye on the welds as welds in sheer can break over time.
Make sure you have a good alignment
1. After you get an alignment done, have them print out the numbers for you. An XJ should have a 7* positive caster angle. A lifted XJ can’t always have that high of a number because the pinion would become out of alignment with the front driveshaft. Pinion angle takes precedence over caster.
2. Make you sure you go to a place that will adjust the caster if necessary (either by shims in the frame side of the LCAs, or adjustable LCAs).
The more adjustable parts the easier it is to tune in your suspension.
1. Adjustable Track Bar
2. Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms (upper ones above 4” of lift). Not only are they adjustable, but they are stronger.
Things to remember:
1. After any lift, get your Jeep professionally aligned, this is a REQUIREMENT, not a suggestion.
2. A Steering Stabilizer (SS) is not a quick fix for DW.
3. Make sure that the lift you purchase comes with all the required parts for a safe driving vehicle. (as long as its going to be a DD)
4. PLEASE ALWAYS DRIVE WITH YOUR FRONT SWAY BAR CONNECTED!
Entire list of everything that can cause death wobble:
-Front tires out of balance
-Front alignment out of spec
-Loose track bar
-Worn track bar bushings
-Worn track bar end
-Needing an adjustable track bar
-Bad bushings/joints in control arms
-Worn/damaged steering stabilizer
-Worn/damaged shocks
-Worn/damaged tie rod end
-Bad U Joint
-Bad ball joint
-Loose frame mount
-Steering box looseness
-Need drop pitman arm
-Driveshaft(s) not balanced
-Bad front hub assembly
Torque specs:
Item ........................................ Ft. lbs. ................... Nm
Lug nuts (1/2 X 20 w/ 60* cone) .... 85-115 .............. 115-150
All tie rod ends .....................…..... 55 ...................….. 74
Steering (both ends) ..............…..... 55 ................….... 74
Shock absorber upper nut .............. 16 ................….... 22
Shock absorber lower nuts ............. 17 ................….... 23
UCA frame end .....................…...... 66 ..............…..... 89
UCA axle end .........................….... 55 ................….... 74
LCA frame end ......................…..... 85 ...................... 115
LCA axle end .........................….... 85 ...................... 115
Track bar frame end ..............…..... 60 .................…... 81
Track bar axle end .................….... 40 ..................…... 54
Track bar bracket bolts ..........…..... 92 ...................... 125
Track bar bracket nut .............….... 74 ....................... 100
Track bar bracket support bolts ...... 31 ....................... 42
Hub bolts (3) ............................…. 75 ....................... 102
Hub- axle bolt ..........................….. 175 ..................... 237
Information provided by Jeeps Unlimited
Check your Track Bar, play in this can cause the axle to shake.
1. Bushings - check to see that they are not worn. Looks for cracks, and excessive play)
2. Angles - this angle should be the same as your draglink. Use an angle finders you can get at sears to determine this, don’t just eye-ball it.
3. Bolts – Make sure all bolts are tightened down to spec (some lift components have a different torque spec then)
Check the Axle, your mounts may be worn
1. Check the axle mount. Here is a good write up on a wallowed out bolt hole
http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
2. Check your Universal joints, a binding or lose U-Joint can cause DW
3. On the frame end if you still use the conventional Tie Rod End or (TRE) make sure that there is no play in this, as play can cause DW.
4. Look/Check for worn/torn boots on ball joints/tie-rod ends.
Check your Tires
1. Out of balance tires can cause shaking in the front end, which can lead to death wobble.
2. Make sure all of your lug nuts are tight, (Sounds elementary but it happens to the best of us)
Check your Frame
1. Small cracks in the frame can cause the steering box to feel loose, Shaking from DW can only make this worse. 33’s and larger should have some form of Steering box brace, or frame brace in.
2. If you have upgraded your frame mount, make sure its cranked down nice and tight. (best to use an impact gun)
3. A busted Frame Mount can cause play in the front end causing DW (Keep a watchful eye on the welds as welds in sheer can break over time.
Make sure you have a good alignment
1. After you get an alignment done, have them print out the numbers for you. An XJ should have a 7* positive caster angle. A lifted XJ can’t always have that high of a number because the pinion would become out of alignment with the front driveshaft. Pinion angle takes precedence over caster.
2. Make you sure you go to a place that will adjust the caster if necessary (either by shims in the frame side of the LCAs, or adjustable LCAs).
The more adjustable parts the easier it is to tune in your suspension.
1. Adjustable Track Bar
2. Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms (upper ones above 4” of lift). Not only are they adjustable, but they are stronger.
Things to remember:
1. After any lift, get your Jeep professionally aligned, this is a REQUIREMENT, not a suggestion.
2. A Steering Stabilizer (SS) is not a quick fix for DW.
3. Make sure that the lift you purchase comes with all the required parts for a safe driving vehicle. (as long as its going to be a DD)
4. PLEASE ALWAYS DRIVE WITH YOUR FRONT SWAY BAR CONNECTED!
Entire list of everything that can cause death wobble:
-Front tires out of balance
-Front alignment out of spec
-Loose track bar
-Worn track bar bushings
-Worn track bar end
-Needing an adjustable track bar
-Bad bushings/joints in control arms
-Worn/damaged steering stabilizer
-Worn/damaged shocks
-Worn/damaged tie rod end
-Bad U Joint
-Bad ball joint
-Loose frame mount
-Steering box looseness
-Need drop pitman arm
-Driveshaft(s) not balanced
-Bad front hub assembly
Torque specs:
Item ........................................ Ft. lbs. ................... Nm
Lug nuts (1/2 X 20 w/ 60* cone) .... 85-115 .............. 115-150
All tie rod ends .....................…..... 55 ...................….. 74
Steering (both ends) ..............…..... 55 ................….... 74
Shock absorber upper nut .............. 16 ................….... 22
Shock absorber lower nuts ............. 17 ................….... 23
UCA frame end .....................…...... 66 ..............…..... 89
UCA axle end .........................….... 55 ................….... 74
LCA frame end ......................…..... 85 ...................... 115
LCA axle end .........................….... 85 ...................... 115
Track bar frame end ..............…..... 60 .................…... 81
Track bar axle end .................….... 40 ..................…... 54
Track bar bracket bolts ..........…..... 92 ...................... 125
Track bar bracket nut .............….... 74 ....................... 100
Track bar bracket support bolts ...... 31 ....................... 42
Hub bolts (3) ............................…. 75 ....................... 102
Hub- axle bolt ..........................….. 175 ..................... 237
Information provided by Jeeps Unlimited
01-05-2012, 03:27 PM
#6
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Mine was around 45. Got some new tires and new shocks, now its gone. The tires were worn unevenly and the front barpins had a crazy amount of play inside the bushings. Not saying this is your issue, but might be.
01-05-2012, 04:46 PM
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My lift is kinda old. Thinking about replacing the shocks. I'm at 3 in of lift and don't plan in going bigger, as I don't do any crawling, just use it as a DD and AR the deer lease.
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01-05-2012, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jcwclm
Probably a wheel out of balance. Rotate your tires and see if it still does it in the front.
01-06-2012, 08:21 PM
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ive read majority of the threads regarding DW and they regard to DW that happens when hitting bumps in the road or any other kind or road irregularity and having to slow down to get it under control. mine is only at a certain speed and i'm able to speed up or slow down to get it to stop... at 65...70...75 if i hit a bump....nothing!!! mine has nothing to do with with the vehicle hitting any kind of pothole or road change. only starts at 50mph and isn't out of control. Tie rods are a week old, 3 day old IRO track bar. maybe control arms? i'm only at 3in lift and dont really plan on going any higher in the next few years. should i put stock control arms back on? same price as replacing just the bushings.
01-06-2012, 08:35 PM
#12
Junior Member
You have the same thing I have. It has nothing to do with bumps. Mine tends to do it the worst when making a curve at 45mph. I've replaced everything except the CA bushings. and I mean EVERYTHING. Still does it just as bad.
Have you done the whole lay under the Jeep and inspect while someone else moves the wheel back and forth?
I'm seriously thinking about eliminating the bushing and tre on my trackbar and going with hiems just to eliminate ALL play there.
You say your BEST tires are on the front. What shape are your front tires in? If they are worn unevenly or are seriously low on tread it'll cause it. Did you balance them? How much weight did they take?
Have you done the whole lay under the Jeep and inspect while someone else moves the wheel back and forth?
I'm seriously thinking about eliminating the bushing and tre on my trackbar and going with hiems just to eliminate ALL play there.
You say your BEST tires are on the front. What shape are your front tires in? If they are worn unevenly or are seriously low on tread it'll cause it. Did you balance them? How much weight did they take?
01-06-2012, 08:40 PM
#13
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You have the same thing I have. It has nothing to do with bumps. Mine tends to do it the worst when making a curve at 45mph. I've replaced everything except the CA bushings. and I mean EVERYTHING. Still does it just as bad.
Have you done the whole lay under the Jeep and inspect while someone else moves the wheel back and forth?
I'm seriously thinking about eliminating the bushing and tre on my trackbar and going with hiems just to eliminate ALL play there.
You say your BEST tires are on the front. What shape are your front tires in? If they are worn unevenly or are seriously low on tread it'll cause it. Did you balance them? How much weight did they take?
Have you done the whole lay under the Jeep and inspect while someone else moves the wheel back and forth?
I'm seriously thinking about eliminating the bushing and tre on my trackbar and going with hiems just to eliminate ALL play there.
You say your BEST tires are on the front. What shape are your front tires in? If they are worn unevenly or are seriously low on tread it'll cause it. Did you balance them? How much weight did they take?
01-06-2012, 08:49 PM
#14
Junior Member
You might want to try a few more degrees of castor and new CA bushings.
While you're at it... throw mine on the rack and replace my bushings...
While you're at it... throw mine on the rack and replace my bushings...
01-06-2012, 08:59 PM
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sir if you were closer, i'd help you with whatever you needed! i enjoy working on cars even if its not mine. that whys i made a career out of it!