Vincenza V

I have just done a 5" lift to my XJ. I have Sahara wheels, and 31x10.50x15" Goodyear tires. At full left or right, my tires are hitting. It seems to be hitting the rim (inside) to the tie rod end (the tie rod that goes knuckle to knuckle). I guess I could get longer bolts for the stops, but is this normal? It's driveable, but just need your opinion.

Donnie_K

it's those sahara rims. you need something with 4.5" of backspacing or LESS. If you want to keep them you'll have to add spacers, which I don't really recommend, it's just the only other option.

Vincenza V

Thanks for the response Donnie. What about if I add adjustable (tubular) front lower control arms? That seems to be a fix for some. Would it most likely work? Or save my $200.00.

I have the stock control arms on the near 5" front lift (have disco's and RC trackbar) and want to know why you would need aftermarket control arms in the front.

ClassicX

Anything over 2 inches requires, at the least, lower control arms. At near 5 inches, you should have BOTH upper and lower control arms. You will have problems if you don't. I'd be surprised if don't already have some issues with your current set-up. 5 inches is a significant lift on an XJ that requires alot of mods to run smoothly (correctly)

Post some pics of the axle and control arms if you can.

Vincenza V

ClasicX, thank you for your post. I am new to the lift scene. I did it all by myself. I am a certified shade tree mechanic, so the lift was my first lift.

Can you (or anone) please explain what type of problems I should be having? I want to see if some of the driveability symptoms I am experiencing are related to the need for UCA/LCA. I am learning this from the bottom, so please forgive my ignorance.

Gorillaxj

The arms would be needed for proper suspension geometry and alignment, and are a good idea for your lift height. adjsutables are ideal as you can fine tune things but are not a must...

The wheel rubbing the TRE is a wheel back spacing issue. I would recommend buying some wheels as you can buy wheels for the same price as the quality spacers. wheels would be better then spacers because with spacers your adding another failure point.

Vincenza V

I here people talk abput proper geometry, buy what I need to know to understand is what are the SYMPTOMS of BAD geometry?

Can you be more specific?

Ex. Right now, after I'm driving on smooth roads, it drives pretty nice. But, when I hit a big bump in the road, it has serious bump-steer. Is that a geometry issue that is going to be fixed with control arms that are adjustable? How would you know what is the right adjustment? I got an alignment, and it tracks straight as an arrow.

Is there a set rule unspoken on lifted jeeps, like you need x-amount of toe in when you lift it (something that a "regular" garage won't know)

Gorillaxj

No unspoken rules. did you install a drop pitman arm?

Bump steer is a geometry issue. there is a difference in angle between the track bar and steering linkage. the angles should be the same or match at ride height.



the same thing can happen with control arms, causing binding while flexing, bump steer, harsh ride, wearing components prematurely, dog tracking, binding in the steering, tire rubbing, ect... there are a lot of symptoms some obvious and some not, some are also no big deal, and some can cause a dangerous vehicle behaviors.

TheJerm

Stock arms on that height will also throw your castor way out of whack, contributing to bumpsteer, poorer steering radius and uneven tire wear.

As for the rims rubbing, that's weird. My GF has jk sahara wheels with 32" on her 3" lift and it only rubs a little on the inner fender plastic.

Vincenza V

Thank you for your input. I obviously have a lot to learn. I will post a pic up here of my steering and control arms. I also realized since the track bar and drag link weren't parallel, I decided to look why. My RC track bar is for 1.5-4.5" lift (it's for sale now on the forum). I'm at 5"+. So it wasn't going to adjust any more to that height.

I bought a different model RC 4-6" track bar. It came with the track bar drop bracket. I installed that this weekend, and got an alignment. It definitely feel a bit better up front. I think that the alignment shop did what they could considering the stock control arms. I may end up droping it back down to 4", to hopefully get some better driveability back. I don't know if I want to spend the cash on all new front control arms.

My truck drives like a "low rider" when I hit bumps (more in the back-since I have a bastard pack and AAL, it's too stiff I think) Am I asking too much for a lifted truck to ride good on the street and not bounce you to death?

Red82

Go long arms and you'll have a great ride. One day I'll get long arms.

Donnie_K

Changing to any type of control arm is not going to fix your rim rubbing your TRE's...

TheJerm

A lifted jeep wont drive like a caddy but ride quality is all about control arm angles and shackle angle. I think your at the limits of both with 5" lift. You want the arms as close to horizontal as possible (this is why long arms are better) and shackle angle at 45 degrees. The idea is let the suspension take the force of bumps, not the chassis

Vincenza V

TheJerm-by "You want the arms as close to horizontal as possible", you mean with each other (top and bottom arms on front) or with the ground. I'll try to post pictures up tonight.

On the rear, with 5" of lift, am I doomed to "lowrider" feel on the road? I can't imagine (unless I load down the back with a few hundred pound of gear) it would be a good offroad ride to have too stiff rear springs.

I have to add some shims to my axle next weekend (and yes, I have a HNT slip yoke and Cherokee FS on it) to quensh some small vibes. I'm going to see about swapping a few older leaf springs in the bastard pack, if that helps.

Vincenza V

"Changing to any type of control arm is not going to fix your rim rubbing your TRE's..."

I know that, I meant it for the 'riding like a lowrider" symptom. Sory for the confusion.

The good news is my new track bar and drag link are so close to parallel, that the bouncing sensation when I'm hitting bumps in the road might be just related to the stiff rear springs.