wheeling without a sye
#1
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Year: 2001
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wheeling without a sye
I just recently installed my 6.5 inch short arm lift on my cherokee, i have not got a sye or drive shaft. I do have minor vibrations above 55 mph's. Will it be ok to wheel it? Or should i just not risk messing my drivetrain up? Thanks
#2
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i am at 4.5 i have wheeled for over a year with no problems, i think ur good aslong as its no major grinding or vibes. i dont plan on getting one as long as i stay at 4.5 it drives on the highway just fine and wheels better than ever
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Thanks but i an just not sure, i really don't want to mess anything up. Just can't afford to break anything else on it lol
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Do you at least have a transfercase drop? What I would do is block the front tires, jack up the back of the jeep so that the axle and tires free hang, put the jeep in neutral and see if you can rotate the rear driveline by hand. If not then most likely the u joints are binding at full droop.
Lifting a rig that high without an SYE can cause other problems. The driveline can pull out of the t case at full droop. When you hit a bump at high speed the driveline will force up on the slip yoke instead of in because of the added angle; this can break the transfercase tail cone. You will also go through u joints alot faster.
An SYE only cost about 170. Buy that and source a XJ front driveline out of the junk yard and problem solved right. Well worth it.
Lifting a rig that high without an SYE can cause other problems. The driveline can pull out of the t case at full droop. When you hit a bump at high speed the driveline will force up on the slip yoke instead of in because of the added angle; this can break the transfercase tail cone. You will also go through u joints alot faster.
An SYE only cost about 170. Buy that and source a XJ front driveline out of the junk yard and problem solved right. Well worth it.
Last edited by Lead Foot; 12-05-2012 at 08:54 PM.
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You are taking a chance on dropping your drive shaft. You could do the math, but that means doing triginometry, and that just sucks. The formula to figure that out is... ah hell. Hopefully somebody that runs that much lift can chime in and give you their experience.
#6
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Do you at least have a transfercase drop? What I would do is block the front tires, jack up the back of the jeep so that the axle and tires free hang, put the jeep in neutral and see if you can rotate the rear driveline by hand. If not then most likely the u joint are binding as full droop.
Lifting a rig that high without an SYE can cause other problems. The driveline can pull out of the t case at full droop. When you hit a bump at high speed the driveline will force up on the slip yoke instead of in; this can break the transfercase tail cone. You will also go through u joints alot faster.
An SYE only cost about 170. Buy that and source a XJ front driveline out of the junk yard and problem solved right. Well worth it.
Lifting a rig that high without an SYE can cause other problems. The driveline can pull out of the t case at full droop. When you hit a bump at high speed the driveline will force up on the slip yoke instead of in; this can break the transfercase tail cone. You will also go through u joints alot faster.
An SYE only cost about 170. Buy that and source a XJ front driveline out of the junk yard and problem solved right. Well worth it.
#7
thats a whole lot of lift for stock drive shafts, the rear is pulled way out already. as said before it may pull out of the tc , i would'nt wheel it until it is right.did you extend the brake lines ? if the front drops too far you will snap the front rubber lines off. make it right then wheel it when its right, but hey thats just me.
Last edited by srb531; 12-05-2012 at 09:19 PM.
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#8
Do you at least have a transfercase drop? What I would do is block the front tires, jack up the back of the jeep so that the axle and tires free hang, put the jeep in neutral and see if you can rotate the rear driveline by hand. If not then most likely the u joints are binding at full droop.
Lifting a rig that high without an SYE can cause other problems. The driveline can pull out of the t case at full droop. When you hit a bump at high speed the driveline will force up on the slip yoke instead of in because of the added angle; this can break the transfercase tail cone. You will also go through u joints alot faster.
An SYE only cost about 170. Buy that and source a XJ front driveline out of the junk yard and problem solved right. Well worth it.
Lifting a rig that high without an SYE can cause other problems. The driveline can pull out of the t case at full droop. When you hit a bump at high speed the driveline will force up on the slip yoke instead of in because of the added angle; this can break the transfercase tail cone. You will also go through u joints alot faster.
An SYE only cost about 170. Buy that and source a XJ front driveline out of the junk yard and problem solved right. Well worth it.
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Well ok. I think I understand what you are saying mr white. It really depends on how much arc your leafs have. If your leaves have a ton of arc then as they flatten out through compression the axle would be pushed backwards. But if your leafs are not arched to that point, as the axle swings down pivoting on the front spring hangers; the axle will drop out away from the t case output. This is more common then the first in most rigs I have dealt with.
#11
The pivot point is the front of the leaves. When the shackle swings out (backward), the rear axle is essentially moving "away" from the tcase. If the shackle swings forward, the axle moves "in" toward the tcase, shrinking the amount of slip. Of course how much or how little depends on the leaves and shackles.
#12
No sadly i don't even have a t case drop,i want to get all of that but the Jeep has been in the shop for other reasons and haven't gotten to it yet. Just want to make one last trip to uwharrie before it closes for the winter, probably won't have one before it closes.... That's why i want to know if it will be ok. Thanks
You need to lift the back of the jeep off the ground and see where it will be at full droop.
Chances are you will need to disconnect the rear brake line and or extend it.
For now you can cheat and stack washers to lower your transfer case skid. If you don't have money for a kit. Normally I would not do this but if its not in your budget dropping the transmission brace with washers just might save some other components.
Just make sure to use hardened bolts if you do this.
#13
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thats a whole lot of lift for stock drive shafts, the rear is pulled way out already. as said before it may pull out of the tc , i would'nt wheel it until it is right.did you extend the brake lines ? if the front drops too far you will snap the front rubber lines off. make it right then wheel it when its right, but hey thats just me.
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